Concrete prices per yard

   / Concrete prices per yard #51  
Thanks Dargo. When you say no less than 6" thick concrete, should I consider another truckload of concrete in the floor to get around 7-8 inches thick? I only want to do it once and want it right.
 
   / Concrete prices per yard #52  
I looked at a two post Rotary lift, and their website calls for 5" thick in the area of the lift. That's the least I would go for a lift. The forklift should be fine. I had my own machine shop, and the slab was a thin 4"- actually 3-1/2, since they formed it with 2X4's. I had an 11,000 lb CNC machine brought in, plus the weight of the forklift. The machine sat on 4 small round pads, and never hurt the floor. I remember measuring my masonry bit when I was drilling the floor for anchors, and it was less than 4" everywhere I drilled. That being said- when I pour my barn floor, which will have a lift, it will be 6". There's a big difference when a car could fall on you!
 
   / Concrete prices per yard #53  
Thanks Dargo. When you say no less than 6" thick concrete, should I consider another truckload of concrete in the floor to get around 7-8 inches thick? I only want to do it once and want it right.

Well, it's all too easy to spend someone else's money, but if you read my post with the picture of the pumper truck in the barn you can read that I went 10" in that barn. I park my dumptruck in there quite frequently with about 23,000 to 24,000 pounds on a trailer attached to it. Also, you can't go back and add an inch when you're finished. Most concrete companies do exactly what the previous poster said; use 2X4 lumber for a "4 inch floor" actually leaving you only get 3 1/2". The same goes for most concrete companies who do "6 inch floors"; that are only really 5 1/2" thick.

I used a large commercial concrete contractor and my 2000 yard total job (barn and driveway) was just a small job for them. They have actual steel and aluminum forms that are a true 4", 6", 8" etc. They don't use lumber for forms. You don't want a company to tell you that you're getting a 6" floor, only use 3500psi concrete and then have high spots under the floor leaving you with only 3" or so in spots, especially if you're going to put in a 2 post lift. I have 4 lifts; two 2 post lifts and 2 four post lifts. I'd strongly prefer to not play "catch" with a nearly 9000 pound dually falling on me. Or, more likely, have the floor crack, weaken, and fall when you are later lifting something.

Again, I am not a professional concrete guy. I'm just a guy who has spent a load on concrete and strongly prefers it to last. You don't need your barn floor poured to AASHTO T 22 specs (only for my bridge), but when you spend a considerable amount of money for a concrete floor, you do want it to last. You may want to ask your contractor what their ASTM/ACI compliant numbers are. I didn't do my research and shopped by mainly price alone on my first barn and my FF number for the floor is only in the mid 30's. In the barn pictured being poured, that company provided me with certified proof that they average between 60 and 70 on almost all jobs and can do an even better job for more money. They provided me with a binder of ASTM E1155 certified 60+ floors. Basically that means that per each 10' I should have less than an 1/8" of deviation in the levelness of the floor.

You really want a floor to be at least well into the 30's if you are going to have any drains in it and will have any water on the floor or you'll have puddles to deal with. Most residential companies can't do FF numbers over 40 or 50, but that is plenty fine. I figured I was already spending a lot of money so I spent the bit extra for the better grade finish, higher psi concrete (my 2nd barn and driveway are 4500) and firmly believe in the heavier wire matting (basically 1/4" rebar formed into 10'X15' sections). Sorry if I got carried away with explaining, but to me I spent a lot of money and wanted to do my research and get a good company. Good luck with your floor!
 
   / Concrete prices per yard #54  
Thanks for all the advice. It has all been helpful. Those pictures of your barn and driveway are amazing. That is one heck of a concrete job...I was planning to use something like that 1/4 inch rebar mat you were describing. Do I lay that out one layer thick and overlap them a little? Or should I do 2 layers thick? Also, do they have to be welded together or just overlapping or wire them together? I also have been reading you want the rebar centered in the floor from top to bottom. All the talk has me thinking about a 8 inch floor. I'm planning on living there for the next 30 years and don't want a problem. Also, I want that security of knowing a car will be stable overhead. I have broken up a 4 inch sidewalk once and it wasn't to hard to do. 8 inches seems like it would be far more sturdy. What are your thoughts on putting radiant floor heat in the slab? That would be a "nice to have".
 
 
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