Pole Barn vs. Framed for Garage/Shed

[jcliburn]

I am considering putting concrete piers down and placing 6" x 6" on top of the pier which extend 6" above grade - so the posts stay dry all the time.

That's what I did, except I erected steel trusses instead of wood posts.

I used a 12 inch PHD to dig the hole for the pier (3 feet deep), then I used 2x6 lumber to build a 6x6 box with "arms" that spanned the hole. Sat the armed boxes over the holes, lined everything up with strings, then mixed and poured Quickcrete.

 

[RoMad]

You mentioned using the T1 siding. If you decide to go the siding route have you considered Hardi siding. I have used it both in the 4x8 sheets and the lap siding and am absolutely sold on it. It won't rot, burn or warp after you put it on and it looks good too.

 

[Marveltone]

How is the frost in your area? Pole barns don't work well up here because the frost heaves the poles up at different rates and buckles the steel, pulls out fasteners and causes other mayhem. We've found that a framed construction on a framed footing floats much more evenly, thus creating a much more stable building..
I meant to say a poured footing, not framed. Oops...

Probably not a problem in PA, but thought I'd share anyway.

Joe

 

[Kays Supply]

OK, I am opening myself up, but I went with the frame building. Around here they make their posts out of 3 2x6 so they don't warp and twist as bad. I figured if you stretch them out to 24" centers it only took a couple more to make a frame wall. I used metal siding, if you went with hoizontal siding you could not have to use the 2x4 nailers like metal. My barn took a 24" snow and some really bad winds that the local pole type barns didn't. I plan on insulating all of it and closing off part to heat for a shop. That will be much easier with the stud walls. I don't regret the extra cost.

 

[MMH]

How is the frost in your area? Pole barns don't work well up here because the frost heaves the poles up at different rates and buckles the steel, pulls out fasteners and causes other mayhem. We've found that a framed construction on a framed footing floats much more evenly, thus creating a much more stable building..

Probably not a problem in PA, but thought I'd share anyway.

Joe

I'm up in the hills a little, so frost is not heavy by your standards, but is by mine. Temps typically drop down to low teens at night in Jan. & Feb. and getting down to -10 or so at night is cold for us but not that unusual.

The above combined with heavy clay and alot of water running down down on the ground (runoff frrom the mountain/hill above the planed site) makes me lean towards a framed construction w/ a legitimate foundation. I have not run the numbers yet, but don't expect a huge difference if I do all the work (including excavation, footer & block).

 

[JDdude]

If you go pole barn..Put a vapor barrier or foil backed insulation 1 1/2" thick on the roof before you install the metal on the roof..this will stop any condensation...This is a must in your climate.. Pole barn gets my vote..Cost less to build, cost less in taxes. last long enough..

U will pour your concrete floor after you set your post..Use the lower treated outer board as a batter board..Drill through your post bottom and install 1/2" re-bar, then bend the bar so it will be in the concrete when you pour the concrete..this will tie it all together..

 

[BeeferMan]

We built a 36x48 barn last year, went with the pole barn approach. A full foundation approach here would have added around $12K to the project for the foundation alone.

So we used 6x8 PT set on concrete "pads", set 4 feet underground, back filled with good draining material. Went with good quality metal roofing with enough pitch that there are no snow issues, snow slides right off. Went back and forth between using trusses or conventional rafters, finally opted for the rafters to gain some space.

We wanted a traditional looking barn, so we went with vertical pine siding. This was *not* an inexpensive building. I won't say what it cost, but I could have cut some corners and made it probably 30% less expensive than it was. But no regrets...

I thought I had some more pictures of it on this laptop, but here's one before the siding and doors, one with. (Got the doors on too late in the season to stain!)

 

[Western]

I would also consider the added tax liabilities for each build type and also consider the +- added worth to your property of each.

Where I am, if I build a building with no windows for instance, it is taxed as a "barn" (lower), add a window and it is taxed as a "shop" (higher)

Each part of the country is different, but I would consider the total sum value in the equation. You may be better off building to match your house style in the long run.

 

[Duffster]

To me it would depend on what type of roofing and siding material you want to use.

 

[Maynard Reece Byrd]

If you go pole barn..Put a vapor barrier or foil backed insulation 1 1/2" thick on the roof before you install the metal on the roof..this will stop any condensation...This is a must in your climate..

This is a must, otherwise you will have "rain" in your building. You need to keep the moist air in the building from coming in contact with the cold metal roof. During colder months if the roof metal is bare on the bottom you will get frost, which when the temp warms inside or the sun warms the outside will melt and drip.