Garage door Header framing, Crazy idea????

[OKnewguy]

I am wanting to convert my 3 car single garage into a 3 car that has a one single and 1 double door. My question is about the required header to span the new double door (16'), The current headers are 8x2 with a sandwich of plywood. The green lines on the existing header represent where there is a joint. The joints are offset btw. My first thought is to add diagonal bracing in between the stud bays (the red lines, and then glue and screw plywood onto the framing for additional strength (instead of sheetrock). I changed colors on the picture that would show the plywood, so you can picture how I was planing to lay out the sheets.

I know that a proper beam should be used, but by doing this I am making a beam, sort of.
Am I off base here?
Thanks for the input!
Dave

 

[OKnewguy]

One quick foot note.
The roof is truss framed and they are run parallel to the doors.
Thanks, Dave

 

[moored4]

I am assuming that for some reasons you do not want to put a standard header in there. So instead of ply wood could you use steel plate welded into one piece and then lag bolt it to the existing 2 headers, if you can get to the front side make a steel plate sandwich bolting thru the existing header.

 

[Rustyiron]

There should be really no need for much a header above the doors because the roof bears on the side walls with either trusses or rafters. You should be fine with what you've suggested. If it concerns you you could use a "Microlam" lagged into the existing headers to span both openings. A paralam is a brand name for the new engineered lumber that is making larger openings much easier to deal with, replacing steel beams or flitch plates. It is really just a super piece of plywood, usually 13/4" thick X varing heights and available up to 40' long. It looks like you could fit 18" or so in there. One consideration might be to (no matter what you end up with for a beam) is put a "stiff back up in the attic, that is a 2x4-6 attached flat to the trusses. To provide stiffining of the end truss. Double check your final opening dim. to be sure it will work with a std size door. Good luck,

 

[OKnewguy]

The main reason for trying to do this is time. If I go this route, I can work at my leisure, and not disable the existing doors. I should be able to have it all framed and then tear out the center support the same day that I install the door. Unfortunately, I can not get to other side of the header, it is where the eaves are and I am trying not to tear out the outside.
Thanks for the replies! Keep them coming!
Dave

 

[PILOON]

Since the truss loads are on the side walls, I think you'd be just fine with 3/4 ply to box everything in.
Be sure your first 3/4 is centered over the gap between the doors, both inside and out and then simply complete the 'box' til the whole area over the doors are covered.
Use lots of nails to stitch it all together. (you do have a nail gun?)
This assumes you have trusses and not rafters as trusses place all the load on the side walls.Rafters tend to push the side walls outwards, but then even so tyeing the door headers as I suggest would hold the sides in.
Good luck!
(usual disclamers apply)

 

[JCByrd24]

There should be really no need for much a header above the doors because the roof bears on the side walls with either trusses or rafters. You should be fine with what you've suggested.

Rustyiron is correct, and you are lucky. If your trusses ran perpendicular to doors this would be a much larger undertaking. In this case, the header simply needs to hold it's weight, and the interior and exterior sheathing. You are also lucky that there is a continuous header already there with staggered joints. Most likely you could knock out that divider right now, but I like your idea of sheathing the inside with plywood vice sheetrock.

 

[Jay4200]

I am wanting to convert my 3 car single garage into a 3 car that has a one single and 1 double door. My question is about the required header to span the new double door (16'), The current headers are 8x2 with a sandwich of plywood. The green lines on the existing header represent where there is a joint. The joints are offset btw. My first thought is to add diagonal bracing in between the stud bays (the red lines, and then glue and screw plywood onto the framing for additional strength (instead of sheetrock). I changed colors on the picture that would show the plywood, so you can picture how I was planing to lay out the sheets.

I know that a proper beam should be used, but by doing this I am making a beam, sort of.
Am I off base here?
Thanks for the input!
Dave

Doesn't really matter - your doors are on the gable end, so that wall isn't load bearing. You're just holding up the little bit of wall above the doors. If you want to do it "right", rip out the existing header and replace it with a 16' header constructed the same way.

Edit: as the others said...

JayC

 

[backdoor]

Gable trusses are usualy built to be placed on a weight bearing wall, and are not designed to hold any weight without being supported from underneath. Look in your attic to see if the gable truss looks exactly like the rest of your trusses. If not, you need to support that truss along with the gable. I build custom homes up to about 7500 sq. ft. I doubt if you will be able to frame any kind of header to span 16 feet that won't sag a little bit. Call a local truss supplier, they usually supply LVL material, glulam, paralam type beams, too. They will tell you what size beam to use, and they can supply it. Hope this helps.

 

[beeforty]

Out of curiosity have you checked to see if a single door will span the distance of your 2 singles plus the middle portion. What size do you have now? 7'ers with 1' in between? Or a pair of 8's plus the middle?:confused2: