Pole Barn Build, 40x50x12

[dave1949]

The "right" way to set a post has been highly debated in the construction community for years and they have not come to any real "standard".

So true Check out this 'old' style of barn building:Building the barn

If you scroll down the pics, you will see the barn beams resting on solid concrete blocks which are sitting on a leveled and compacted gravel base.

This is the way barns were built in New England from way back, deep frost and all. Stack up some split granite rocks, level them and lay out the beams. Of course, I'm sure they developed some leaning barns over time. I don't know what it proves, but it's interesting.
Dave.

 

[fowllife]

I have mentioned this in a different thread but never got an answer. On my material list it shows 2x12s as my "triple header". Any reason I would need my header made of 3 2x12's??? From what I read, most headers are a 2x12 on each side of the 6x6 post that are then bolted together.

Thanks,
Nick

I'm not quite sure what the 3rd one would be for. Did your supplier provide a sketch of any kind? My first thought was a maybe your door headers, but if they call them out as your "triple header" that doesn't make a whole lot of sense. The only thing that I can come up with is maybe it's for making a boxed style header? By boxing the top you improve your nailing, boxing your bottom will improve your strength.

I would call your supplier and ask what it's actually for.

 

[nrc17gto]

I'm not quite sure what the 3rd one would be for. Did your supplier provide a sketch of any kind?

No sketches. I actually did not end up getting the material from the supplier that provided the material list.

But from what I gather, seems like it will be fine to be put a 2x12 on each side of the 6x6 and bolt it all together. Thanks for your info!

Nick

 

[fowllife]

A 2x on each side should be enough, but on that big of span it wouldn't hurt to box the top in to get better nailing, but if you are using truss hold downs it isn't really needed.

Honestly though I usually don't thru-bolt my beams to the post. I usually just shoot them on with then nail gun, then throw in some 5" pole barn spikes. What kind of spacing are your trusses at? I also make sure that the truss at each column is either nailed to the side of the column, or notched inside the post.

 

[nrc17gto]

. What kind of spacing are your trusses at? I also make sure that the truss at each column is either nailed to the side of the column, or notched inside the post.

My trusses are at 5' OC. I wish I could find some better pictures of all the different methods. Seems people normally just have pictures of the building as a whole and no close ups. We were considering using truss hangers.

Thanks,
Nick

Oh yeah, here is a pic I took yesterday just for fun. Testing out the fit of my Jeep in the new garage. I think it will work!


PoleBarn Jeep by nrc17gto, on Flickr

 

[ptexer]

I have a 32' span with one two by twelve on each side. My rafters are 4' on center. My guess is the additional load requires the third 2 by 12. Is it to be set on the inside or outside?

 

[fowllife]

If your trusses are 5' o/c what is your column spacing? I would assume it to be 10'o/c because of the 5' truss spacing.......If that is the case then it changes things a little. "Most" barn in my area are set up for 8'/4'or 2', so thats were my mind was. You should still be ok with a pair of 2x's though unless you have a high snow load.

I have built many pole barns through the years and have seen many different styles. Most of the builders that put them up just do whatever is fastest, not really what is the best way.

A couple of things to keep in mind though, if you shift the trusses to land next to a column you will throw your end spacing off. If you notch the center out of the top of the post (probably the best way) its lind of a pain to do, and it's a little harder to set your trusses. Both of these ways help to keep your trusses from racking at all, and help woth hold down forces.....the easiest way is to just cut the post flush with the top of the 2x's and toe nail. I would recomend something similar to a Simpson H2.5 for a hold down if you go that route.

Sorry but I don't have any pics handy. FWIW, my most recent pole barn (which is mine) is a 32' span with a single 2x10 yellow pine (much stronger) on each side of a laminated column, 8' post spacing, 4' truss, trusses next to post, 2' o/c girts and purlins with steel all around & 1' overhang. This was a 32'x48'x14' barn. My next one will probably be similar but 40x60x16

 

[Gizmo2]

If your trusses are 5' o/c what is your column spacing? I would assume it to be 10'o/c because of the 5' truss spacing.......If that is the case then it changes things a little. "Most" barn in my area are set up for 8'/4'or 2', so thats were my mind was. You should still be ok with a pair of 2x's though unless you have a high snow load.

I have built many pole barns through the years and have seen many different styles. Most of the builders that put them up just do whatever is fastest, not really what is the best way.

A couple of things to keep in mind though, if you shift the trusses to land next to a column you will throw your end spacing off. If you notch the center out of the top of the post (probably the best way) its lind of a pain to do, and it's a little harder to set your trusses. Both of these ways help to keep your trusses from racking at all, and help woth hold down forces.....the easiest way is to just cut the post flush with the top of the 2x's and toe nail. I would recomend something similar to a Simpson H2.5 for a hold down if you go that route.

Sorry but I don't have any pics handy. FWIW, my most recent pole barn (which is mine) is a 32' span with a single 2x10 yellow pine (much stronger) on each side of a laminated column, 8' post spacing, 4' truss, trusses next to post, 2' o/c girts and purlins with steel all around & 1' overhang. This was a 32'x48'x14' barn. My next one will probably be similar but 40x60x16

Have you ever use Hurricane Tie Z-max "Simpson Strong Tie H1Z"?
Find a Simpson Strong-Tie H1 Hurricane Tie - H1Z at The Home Depot

 

[bucktaker]

just wondering how Square and true your building is? Have you measured it ?

We typically use a 18 " auger to allow for squaring of the building before backfilling the posts. We use concrete bases and backfill with a crushed limestone gravel hand compacted in each hole.

 

[nrc17gto]

If your trusses are 5' o/c what is your column spacing? I would assume it to be 10'o/c because of the 5' truss spacing.......If that is the case then it changes things a little. "Most" barn in my area are set up for 8'/4'or 2', so thats were my mind was. You should still be ok with a pair of 2x's though unless you have a high snow load.

My building specs:
Posts are 10' oc
Trusses 5' oc 40' span with 2' oh on each side = 44'
Girts/Purlins 2' oc
osb all the way around for vinyl siding
Very little snow load in TN

I am thinking I am going to go with the 2x12 on each side bolted to the posts. Thanks for all your help.

bucktaker-the building should be square. We measured for a good while and a lot during putting posts in the ground. The auger we used was 12" but a real pain with the soil conditions. I had to end up digging some by hand when we started setting the posts.

Nick