Pole Barn Build, 40x50x12

[nrc17gto]

Make sure you put bichuthane around the windows on both sides and top. Not on the bottom. Tyvek is awesome, however it does not breathe so if any water gets behind it the first place it causes rot and mold is around the windows due to moisture in cold weather.

Bichuthane, in strips 4-6inches side, will prevent this from happening. Put the side strips on first then overlap the top. You will be years ahead on rot and moisture.

Do the same around doors. Do not seal the bottoms as this will allow rain/moisture to escape.

Good looking barn. I am building one too but not as far along as you. Winter showed up here in force so have to wait for spring now. Looks good.

Thanks for the kind words. Are you talking about something like this?

Bituthene

 

[northpolefolks]

Thanks for the kind words. Are you talking about something like this?

Bituthene

Yes. I appearantly can not spell. That is the stuff. Buy it in the large roll like that and just cut 6" wide strips off the end as you need it. You can buy smaller rolls that are already precut to 6" wide, however if you are seriouse about sealing out water a full roll will do enough to include garage door headers and edges and wall penetrations too.

If the weater is cool when you apply it use a hair dryer to prep the surface your applying it to. Just takes a few seconds to heat it up and make a really good seal. You WILL NOT have any water issues if you do it correctly.

Set the window, set it and screw it in place. Then seal the sides over the window hem and then the top.

I will send you a picture or two of how I do it once I find the pictures.

 

[nrc17gto]

Got a new tool today! I have been looking at these off and on and checked this one out today. It will be very helpful working on our future basement and digging dirt for the garage floor.

It is a Ford 555D. It has about 4300 hours, purrs like a kitten and all the joints/pins seem good and tight.

Owner claims it is an '89 model, but I could not for the life of me find any identification plates. What do you guys think, can you help me ID it?


555d 04 by nrc17gto, on Flickr

There a few more photos of it on my Flickr page. It is very new to me and I have not had much time to play, errrr....work with it but I will try to answer any questions to help ID it. There is no manual attached to it and I am also curious about some of the controls on it. If anybody knows where any manuals are on line, please point me to it!

Thanks,
Nick

 

[crbr]

thanks for the pictures

 

[nrc17gto]

OK, so I have been extremely busy at work and what little time I had at the property was spent on fixing my wet weather spring and other sections of the driveway.

We are finally digging back in and preparing the garage floor with dirt so that we can get some concrete flowing. I have been dreading this part but cannot wait to get past it.

This garage build has turned into a much longer process than I anticipated. Time, money, and experience have very much limited us but I have learned a ton during the process.

I will hopefully have some more updates and pictures in the coming weeks.

Nick

 

[nrc17gto]

Time for more questions

It is now getting closer to concrete time. I have read and read and read about thickness, rebar, wire mesh, pouring around the poles, using plastic, etc....

Seems to differ between each person you ask or that posts.

I wish I would have poured the pad first but I did not, so now the problem I have is getting the concrete to the back of the building (50'). I have the two sides, back and roof all enclosed with the front being open with a 12' eave height.

Will I have to get a pumper? The concrete guy I talked to today said he did not see much of any other way of doing it and it would be about an extra $600. I, being the frugal person I am, would like to avoid this if possible.

Any thoughts?

Thanks.

 

[Darrenone]

Can you use the tractor bucket to haul the concrete to the back? Or can you take off a side panel?

 

[nrc17gto]

I have thought about using the bobcat bucket. I was just not sure how practical it would be and how well it would work driving it in. Especially if I go with rebar. Taking a panel off of the side would be a real pain and I may have to cut a lot of trees down before the truck could access it too. Thanks for the suggestions. Any more thoughts out there?

 

[BeezFun]

Thanks for the suggestions. Any more thoughts out there?

Earlier photos show 3 windows, not sure about man doors. Take the sashes out of the windows and put the chute through there. If you don't have enough windows, add one or two in the right place. With a 16' extension on the truck's chute I don't see why you can't reach all the interior. There'll be some shoveling but that's what laborers are for. You can't drive on plastic you'll tear it up. Contractor should have Georgia buggies, they hold a lot and don't do any damage. I'd skip the rebar to make things easier and use fiber reinforced concrete, or wire, it's easy to wheel over.

I'm a little surprised that a pumper will help you, they're pretty tall, unless you have really high overheads or one wall is off.

 

[nrc17gto]

Earlier photos show 3 windows, not sure about man doors. Take the sashes out of the windows and put the chute through there. If you don't have enough windows, add one or two in the right place. With a 16' extension on the truck's chute I don't see why you can't reach all the interior. There'll be some shoveling but that's what laborers are for. You can't drive on plastic you'll tear it up. Contractor should have Georgia buggies, they hold a lot and don't do any damage. I'd skip the rebar to make things easier and use fiber reinforced concrete, or wire, it's easy to wheel over.

I'm a little surprised that a pumper will help you, they're pretty tall, unless you have really high overheads or one wall is off.

I mentioned the window deal to the only contractor I have talked to so far and he said it wouldn't work because the chute has to move side to side. He also said the Georgia Buggies would not work out real well either. I am starting to come to the conclusion he is just lazy. I was kind of surprised about him suggesting a pumper too, I just figured there was some type of linear pumper I had not seen.

Because of my set up, I am starting to wonder if it would make more sense and work out to pour the back half first. That way it would be more accessible for finishing. I am not sure how it would be finished if we did the whole thing at once. Although this could be because my lack of expertise in this area. Of course this may lead to additional costs.

I plan to get in touch with more contractors soon. Thanks for the input.