Slugging / Striking wrench for square nut

   / Slugging / Striking wrench for square nut #11  
bindian, You're thinking of a spud wrench -open or box on one end, conical pointed bar on the other used for hole alignment. http://www.steelerectortools.com/catalog/item/2932074/2436412.htm

pharmvet, 4 point slugging wrenches available here IMPERIAL-Newton | Striking Wrenches I work at a power plant & see large slugging wrenched used frequently. Striking a large wrench with a 20lb hammer isn't for the faint of heart, especially when you're holding the wrench, but it can & is done safely. MikeD74T
 
   / Slugging / Striking wrench for square nut #12  
Slugging wrenches seem like a good option for those pesky nuts on disc harrow axles. To those suggesting a 1/2" impact, ha! Have you ever worked on a disc? 1" impact might get it apart. (Edit I see the compact discs have much smaller axles and nuts, I'm used to the big 2 or 3" nuts)

Farmers usually use a 36" pipe wrench with 6 or 8 ft of pipe on the handle combined with the torch to heat the nut up. If you have a bit more money you cut the nut off and put a new one on with new lock tabs.
 
   / Slugging / Striking wrench for square nut #13  
I used to work with a crazy well driller
that would weld 6 foot cheater bars on
4 foot oil field chain wrenches and use
steel pipe on the welded oil field chain
wrenches, its a grand way to end up
in the emergency room of hospital-
not me though after seeing how the
outfit worked for two days I knew
it was a not a safe company to work
for.

Believe me in saying even the smallest
torque multiplier is worth the money
due to the reduction gearing, and the
torque they develop using the ground
contact bar as a fulcrum which is much more
safe in practice and it beats healing from a
broken jaw(not me, but many others).


______________________________________________________________
Once you go flail you never go back:thumbsup::licking::drool:
 
   / Slugging / Striking wrench for square nut #14  
Two big pipe wrenches and a cheater pipe.
One you put on one of the spacers and lock it against the frame to keep the axle from turning. The other and the cheater for the nut. Heat and penetrating oil was always used as well. 20 years ago I busted down many a gangs to replace blades and bearings. I was a scrawny 140 lb , it wasn't that hard.
 
   / Slugging / Striking wrench for square nut #15  
Leonz, I've used torque multipliers, big ones, good ones, but they are not always the right tool for working on discs. They don't like breaking rusty stuff loose, and they don't like being hammered on to break stuff loose. We used them alot in the hydrodam but the slugging wrenches, big pipe wrenches etc where what turned the big nuts.
 
   / Slugging / Striking wrench for square nut #16  
Leonz, I've used torque multipliers, big ones, good ones, but they are not always the right tool for working on discs. They don't like breaking rusty stuff loose, and they don't like being hammered on to break stuff loose. We used them alot in the hydrodam but the slugging wrenches, big pipe wrenches etc where what turned the big nuts.






I would rather see am 8 foot oil field chain wrench
than a cheater pipe anyday for sure.

We always used never sieze on our large components
and also had safety wire headed allen bolts.

The Torque Multipliers were a god send for the large allen head
cap screws we had to deal with on our primary crushers
and belt feeder breakers.


I wonder/hope he can use nylock nuts as replacements for
the originals?
 
   / Slugging / Striking wrench for square nut #17  
Big pipe wrench. with a pipe for longer handle.

Or:

Torch.

Or:

Both.

Without the torch, you can: Take a big hammer, hold it under the nut. Pound on the top of the nut with a slightly smaller hammer. This will break loose rust and help the nut move easier. Also helps work in the penetrating oil. On a square big nut, you can actually pound on it at a slight angle on the corners a little - this could start the nut spinning off. Takes a good appoach tho to keep from just mashing up the corners of the nut.... You need the dead weight hammer below it, so you are compressing the nut, not just beating on one side. Switch over to the other plane every now and then to compress it in both directions.

Forget the pounding wrenches and multipliers, hard to find a proper fit for the big nuts. $$$$$ for special tools only used once. Big pipe wrench and a torch fit many sizes. ;)

Farmers have been working on this since the 1940s, you need a big pipewrench that is sturdy enough built to handle a bit of a pipe extension.

--->Paul
 

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