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  1. #1
    Bronze Member
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    1951 8N Ford, 1962? JD 4010 WF Gas, 1976 International 154 Loboy, New Holland T2410

    Default Decided to use Standing Seam Metal Roofing

    Have a small 800 sq. foot house which the roof comes out to about 10 sq. Pretty straight fwd gable roof, no hips or valleys, no dormers, no skylights, no chimney. Two 2 inch air vents in the back, one small transition for the front porch, pitch is probably 3.5/12. Its an old house that has had shingles which I have had to replace periodically over the house as they've blown off. The shingles are probably 20 years old except the ones I've replaced. The main reason I have to keep replacing them after a good breeze IMO is that the roof has planking rather than sheathing and the roof was done with a nail gun and the nails were run right in the cracks b/n each board. The ones I've replaced haven't moved but I still get the occasional missing two or three here and there from old shingles. We are about to get Irene for a visit this weekend and I have a couple of patches that need attention from the last blow we had...I just tarped it and said enough.

    Well, I planned on going metal this week but had no idea it would take the supplier 3 weeks from the time I ordered to delivery.

    Anyway, I've done a lot of research and feel like I can handle the job as It doesn't look like rocket science. I have the installation pdf's and also have a great carpenter contact that is pretty sharp on old school framing/building and such. The metal roof would be new to him but he's smarter than I so I think we can handle it.

    I plan on remeasuring my roof to get exact numbers for apex to eave and to check for square. I have some questions to talk to McElroy Metal with this week. I'm thinking of going with the Meridian product which is 26 ga galvalum with a white kyner paint. I've seen some white roofs around here and they look good. Plus the reflectivity ought to really help with our hot summers.

    The Meridian is a hidden fastener system. I've priced it and materials look to be around $1400 just for the actual panels. So by the time I add in eaves,ridge, and ridge cap trims etc. I've be another $300.00 into it. Considering I priced 30 yr shingles at about $1000.00, I'm ok with the cost since I can always get my dollars out if I decide to sell.

    So, anyone ever put down Meridian panels? Love to hear anyone's advice on the metal install for similar standing seam type roofs. Tks
    Tom

  2. #2
    Super Member JB4310's Avatar
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    Feb 2005
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    5,645
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    Central CT
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    J.D. 4310 E-hydro

    Default Re: Decided to use Standing Seam Metal Roofing

    I repair all types of roofs, but very little standing seam metal. I don't install any type so I can't help you there. I did have an old (1832) house with a low slope hip roof with standing seam metal. That roof did require periodic maintenance due to it's age (unknown, but very old) and low slope.

    It's a great roof system, mostly found in snow country as it prevents snow build up, but should work in any climate.

    Are you stripping the roof? Insulating? in could get hotter than shingles.
    What color?

    JB
    JD 4310; E hydro, 300CX, 48 BH, 60" box, 72" rake, 72" rear blade, cast pallet forks, 48", 61"HD & 73" high volume bucket.
    FORD 1700; 2 WD, 2600 hrs.
    JD 320; Hydra lift, 48" deck and 48" snow blade.
    2007 Dodge Ram 3500, Cummins 6.7L, Aisin 6 speed, 9ft utility body.

  3. #3
    Bronze Member
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    1951 8N Ford, 1962? JD 4010 WF Gas, 1976 International 154 Loboy, New Holland T2410

    Default Re: Decided to use Standing Seam Metal Roofing

    I plan on removing the old down to the bare wood and use the permafelt for underlayment, that's what the dist. recommended. Just online research makes me think that it may be worth the extra cost.

    The attic had blown in insulation and when I moved in I rolled out more insulation on top of the old.

    The attic has windows in it but i plan on opening up the ridge about an inch each side for a ridge vent.

    Color will be white.

  4. #4
    Veteran Member
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    Default Re: Decided to use Standing Seam Metal Roofing

    on a 3.5/12 roof you should be able to handle this without much problem. i did my roof with a similar product and it went just fine. the only thing i had a problem with is the wind and my impatience to get the job done. wait until its not windy.

  5. #5
    Platinum Member psj12's Avatar
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    Oct 2005
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    Short OK
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    KIOTI 554

    Default Re: Decided to use Standing Seam Metal Roofing

    I seem to see a lot more of these in the eastern OK area. I believe this was due to bad hail storms continually damaging standard asphalt shingle roofs. After one particular large storm a couple yers back it seems you couldn't get roofing material so many people switched to metal.

    I am going to have a new house built and the builder I was talking to, at the time, said he didn't like metal roofs. He really didn't seem to have a real reasons for disliking them. Maybe he didn't know how to install them so he was attempting to talk me out of it for his own convienence.

  6. #6
    Silver Member Zxyrthe's Avatar
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    Jul 2010
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    Ashland, VA
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    Kioti CK20 HST

    Default Re: Decided to use Standing Seam Metal Roofing

    Maknwine -

    What part of VA are you in? I'm in Central VA and have an OLD metal roof on my house. The Meridian panels look like they might be a good upgrade one day.

    Would you mind documenting progress here?

    Thanks!

  7. #7
    Elite Member Duffster's Avatar
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    Wisconsin

    Default Re: Decided to use Standing Seam Metal Roofing

    Quote Originally Posted by Maknwine View Post
    Have a small 800 sq. foot house which the roof comes out to about 10 sq. Pretty straight fwd gable roof, no hips or valleys, no dormers, no skylights, no chimney. Two 2 inch air vents in the back, one small transition for the front porch, pitch is probably 3.5/12. Its an old house that has had shingles which I have had to replace periodically over the house as they've blown off. The shingles are probably 20 years old except the ones I've replaced. The main reason I have to keep replacing them after a good breeze IMO is that the roof has planking rather than sheathing and the roof was done with a nail gun and the nails were run right in the cracks b/n each board. The ones I've replaced haven't moved but I still get the occasional missing two or three here and there from old shingles. We are about to get Irene for a visit this weekend and I have a couple of patches that need attention from the last blow we had...I just tarped it and said enough.

    Well, I planned on going metal this week but had no idea it would take the supplier 3 weeks from the time I ordered to delivery.

    Anyway, I've done a lot of research and feel like I can handle the job as It doesn't look like rocket science. I have the installation pdf's and also have a great carpenter contact that is pretty sharp on old school framing/building and such. The metal roof would be new to him but he's smarter than I so I think we can handle it.

    I plan on remeasuring my roof to get exact numbers for apex to eave and to check for square. I have some questions to talk to McElroy Metal with this week. I'm thinking of going with the Meridian product which is 26 ga galvalum with a white kyner paint. I've seen some white roofs around here and they look good. Plus the reflectivity ought to really help with our hot summers.

    The Meridian is a hidden fastener system. I've priced it and materials look to be around $1400 just for the actual panels. So by the time I add in eaves,ridge, and ridge cap trims etc. I've be another $300.00 into it. Considering I priced 30 yr shingles at about $1000.00, I'm ok with the cost since I can always get my dollars out if I decide to sell.

    So, anyone ever put down Meridian panels? Love to hear anyone's advice on the metal install for similar standing seam type roofs. Tks
    Tom
    I have not used the Meridian panel but I have used thousands of squares of McElroys Metals. Mostly the Kynar painted galvalume. It can't be beat, quality or price.
    "If everyone is thinking alike, someone isn't thinking." George Patton

  8. #8
    Super Star Member EddieWalker's Avatar
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    Tyler, Texas
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    Default Re: Decided to use Standing Seam Metal Roofing

    I'm not familiar with the company or product. I have done some R panel roofs and had to repair some that others have done.

    Be sure to know how to install the fastners. On R panel roofs, the screws are where the leaks occur. Either too tight and the seals fail, or they are too cheap and they rust away.

    When installing your panels, measure the distance from your end walls on each panel. If you are off a quarter inch on the top or bottom, you will through the entire roof off as you go along. Get each one perfect by measuring your distances on top and bottom for each one.

    If walking on the panels, I've found that white colored sneakers have the best grip. Be sure they are clean and there isn't any dust on the roof. Metal roofs are VERY slipery and work boots don't do well for traction on them.

    I use a battery powered impact driver. Cordelss drills work, but they are heavy and tend to be harder to stop when you want them to then the impact driver. Mine is a Makita, but there are other brands that are good too like Bosch.

    Do you have to install any boots to go over vent pipes? Be sure to buy the best ones available. The softer rubber fits better and is easier to work with, but will cost a bit more. I also seal the heck out of them before screwing them down with roofing/flashing sealer. Henry is good, and sold at Home Depot.

    Metal roofs like to form condensation. Good air ventilation is very important. One peak vent at either end of the roof would be a minimum with good eave vents.

    Rolled insulation is just OK. Blown in is much better. Think of a boat with a small leak. You can handle a few leaks and not sink, but every leak is a problem, and the more you have, the worse it gets. Insulation needs to be total and complete to be effective. Only blown in will give you that coverage. Foam is better, but expensive. Blow in a nice thick layer over what you have and you will cover and fill all the leaks between the rolled stuff.

    Take your time, stop when you get hot or tired and do it right the first time.

    Good luck,
    Eddie

  9. #9
    Bronze Member
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    Default Re: Decided to use Standing Seam Metal Roofing

    Quote Originally Posted by Zxyrthe View Post
    Maknwine -

    What part of VA are you in? I'm in Central VA and have an OLD metal roof on my house. The Meridian panels look like they might be a good upgrade one day.

    Would you mind documenting progress here?

    Thanks!
    Hey Zxyrthe, not a problem. I'm near the coast in SE VA, Chesapeake. I hope to go see the distributor Friday. If so, It will probably be after September before I can get back to it. Have grapes to harvest/sell.

    Tks all for the replys.

    Tom

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