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  1. #1
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    Default Steel, T1-11 of Board & Batten for Pole Barn

    I'm putting up a detached garage that will be a pole barn building. I'm debating on what I will want the sides to be made out of.

    Steel seems to be the most maintenance free & easiest to put up. The biggest downside is that it will be hardest to repair (if something bumps the sides) or modify (if I later want to put in additional windows, etc. In addition, I'm not sure I like the appearance as the garage would be about 70' away from the house. I would go w/a two tone wainscoating to make the garage look less like a industrial building.

    T1-11 - would look a little better, but be more labor intensive to put up. It would also be be a little more maintenance. In addition, it would have to be painted. Repairing & modifying would be easier than steel

    Board & Batten would look the best, but by far the most work to put up & the most from a maintenance perspective.

    Comments Please!
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  2. #2
    Platinum Member B7510HSD's Avatar
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    Default Re: Steel, T1-11 of Board & Batten for Pole Barn

    I'll be interested to hear this also as I am looking for ideas but My garage will be located at the Coast where salt air is an issue!!

  3. #3
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    Kubota MX5100

    Default Re: Steel, T1-11 of Board & Batten for Pole Barn

    I love B&B and I built my house with it. For my garage I went 'cheap' and when with Smartpanel. It sort of looks like T1-11 and I wish we had that available around me as I would have chosen that more likely. Based on your list, I would go with the T1-11 but that is MY choice.
    2011 Kubota MX5100, BH92, BH BB72, Walco Bush Hog and Snowblower, Wallenstein 310 Splitter & Forks

  4. #4
    Elite Member 300UGUY's Avatar
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    Kubota L3400, Farmall H

    Default Re: Steel, T1-11 of Board & Batten for Pole Barn

    Quote Originally Posted by MMH View Post
    I'm putting up a detached garage that will be a pole barn building. I'm debating on what I will want the sides to be made out of.

    Steel seems to be the most maintenance free & easiest to put up. The biggest downside is that it will be hardest to repair (if something bumps the sides) or modify (if I later want to put in additional windows, etc. In addition, I'm not sure I like the appearance as the garage would be about 70' away from the house. I would go w/a two tone wainscoating to make the garage look less like a industrial building

    T1-11 - would look a little better, but be more labor intensive to put up. It would also be be a little more maintenance. In addition, it would have to be painted. Repairing & modifying would be easier than steel

    Board & Batten would look the best, but by far the most work to put up & the most from a maintenance perspective.

    Comments Please!
    I built a 40x40x12 barn in 1989. I just finished staining it for the 3rd time. Next time, steel or vinyl siding. No more ladders and hours of work.

  5. #5
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    B2710

    Default Re: Steel, T1-11 of Board & Batten for Pole Barn

    I like T1-11, I prime and paint it on the ground before I put it up using a pole roller and brush. Then after assembly I hit any exposed edges with a sprayer. I've got siding with 10 years on the paint and shows no sign of needing touch up. I think it's very hard to paint/stain wood properly once it's installed, never gets a good first coat and it's often dirty or dusty by the time it's installed. I also like to paint inside of building white for visibility, you can do that with primer.
    Kubota B2710, John Deere X728 snowblower, Toro Zmaster ZTR, Ford 908 bush hog, New Idea manure spreader, Swisher trail mower

  6. #6
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    Default Re: Steel, T1-11 of Board & Batten for Pole Barn

    I will never use T1-11 again on a building more than 1 sheet tall. The seems require so much attention to look anything near decent because the stuff is so flimsy. You basically have to fully block all the seams or they will go ~~~~ between studs. You also have to be going perfectly straight, no chance to hind your sins. While it may seem like sheets would be faster than B&B, handling 1x boards beats a 4x8 sheet every time, and I'm under 30 still. To save some time you could skip the batten and use shiplap, also looks very good. I have this on my carport

  7. #7
    Super Member SPIKER's Avatar
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    Default Re: Steel, T1-11 of Board & Batten for Pole Barn

    I have a T1-11 barn/out building that I have a 2nd floor on. I HATE it for all the reasons above. the Hardi-Panel I ahve heard good things about. mine was put up in november so could not stain it until following year. Put on some of the best stuff available which has mostly pealed loose in cracked bad and even after 9 years has rotted spots in the seams in the sides over 8 feet which is ALL of the sides. It warped and pulled loose on all but the north side and I have to constantly re--screw it off. for a small shed to store a mower in out back hidden behind a large hedge it might be OK but for a building you are concerned with looks on stay away from T1-11...


    Steel also looks good to me but the industrial look was not what I wanted with my place and modifications were a big deal which was reason I went with t1-11.

    Hardi Panel is the concrete looking & much like T1-11 but is not a wood product so rot & warping & moisture is not such an issue... that if available would been what I would have chose now.

    B&B is nice & very lovely but pretty expensive to maintain my Brother has Ceder B&B on his place that has to be bleached & power washed every few years to look good and has to be re-sealed often and like you know a lot of work.

    next is standard house siding not much to it but when I can my barn will probably get that over the top once I get the place screwed down to stop the warping...

    mark
    I may remember why I went to the other end of the shop, I'm just afraid once I get there I'll forget how to get back!

  8. #8
    Platinum Member ustmd's Avatar
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    Default Re: Steel, T1-11 of Board & Batten for Pole Barn

    For my shop I was going to use T1-11 (or Smatpanel), but ended up going with vinyl siding. I went and looked at a bunch of building that uses T1-11 and the seams drove me nuts. As a previous post mentioned, all the joints need to be blocked and if there weren't, they cupped. If you were more than 1 sheet high, you had to have flashing and if the sheets were not perfect (of if you had an imperfection in the wall-waviness), it stood out like a whore in church.

    Good luck

  9. #9
    Elite Member bigtiller's Avatar
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    central Iowa
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    JD 2720

    Default Re: Steel, T1-11 of Board & Batten for Pole Barn

    I put T1-11 on a 10x16 shed and I will never do that again. I don't have a spray paint machine so I have to paint it by hand. That is a really big chore!! Using a brush, roller or pad makes no difference. It is a big job for a little shed.
    HAVE FUN

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  10. #10
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    Default Re: Steel, T1-11 of Board & Batten for Pole Barn

    Quote Originally Posted by ustmd View Post
    As a previous post mentioned, all the joints need to be blocked and if there weren't, they cupped. If you were more than 1 sheet high, you had to have flashing and if the sheets were not perfect (of if you had an imperfection in the wall-waviness), it stood out like a whore in church.
    Manufacturer says all edges must fall on a stud, so if it's installed incorrectly it will perform poorly, which is true of most building materials. Over girts you can orient the studs flat to make the nailing surface more forgiving for joint layout. Makes it easier to put up long runs (like on pole barns) without having to fudge the edges.

    It also comes in 10' lengths to possibly avoid z-flashing. If you do use Z-flashing it's cleaner to apply a band with a dado to the top of the bottom row, then put flashing over the band. The band allows you to stretch a line and get a nice clean edge rather than possibly the wavy look someone mentioned. The wavy look is another indication of flawed installation, not an inherent problem with the material.

    Regarding paint, T1-11 is so rough finished I don't see how it could actually peel unless the paint were poured on, or applied right over dirt. It does drink a lot of paint which is another cost factor. My experience is about 150sf per gallon of solid stain. I have a 32 year old little barn that is T1-11, the original owner painted it once, and I painted it 10 years ago, and other than holes and chewing from the horses, the finish looks fine.
    Kubota B2710, John Deere X728 snowblower, Toro Zmaster ZTR, Ford 908 bush hog, New Idea manure spreader, Swisher trail mower

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