Root Cellar Remodel, Split Level Storage, Shop, Shed Pole Building on a Foundation

[Iplayfarmer]

The subfloor is done. I didn't know what the code is for screwing down subfloor, and I didn't want to stop to look it up. I put a 1 1/2 inch grabber screw every 16" down each joist. That should be plenty. The floor is good and solid with no squeaks.

The next part is the wall framing. I'm a little intimidated to frame the walls, but I'll manage.

 

[NormL]

The subfloor is done. I didn't know what the code is for screwing down subfloor, and I didn't want to stop to look it up. I put a 1 1/2 inch grabber screw every 16" down each joist. That should be plenty. The floor is good and solid with no squeaks.

The next part is the wall framing. I'm a little intimidated to frame the walls, but I'll manage.

This reminds me of the time many many years ago (last century) when I was building a garage / shop. It was 24'x28'x10'. I framed and sheeted each wall, one on top of the other in the reverse order they were to go up. Then, when I had it all ready to erect, I called over the neighbour and his BIL and the three of us raised and braced them one after the other and in no time the pile of walls was transformed into something looking like it needed a roof.:thumbsup: You're gonna love that shop when you have it completed.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

This reminds me of the time many many years ago (last century) when I was building a garage / shop. It was 24'x28'x10'. I framed and sheeted each wall, one on top of the other in the reverse order they were to go up. Then, when I had it all ready to erect, I called over the neighbour and his BIL and the three of us raised and braced them one after the other and in no time the pile of walls was transformed into something looking like it needed a roof.:thumbsup: You're gonna love that shop when you have it completed.

Not a bad idea. I hadn't thought about stacking them. I've been mulling over ways to stand the walls up by myself. The best idea so far involves lifting the wall by pulling it up with my FEL and using a carefully measured stop rope on the other side. If I could find a way to stack them like you said, I could just have the family come over for a lunch on a Saturday and we could raise the walls.

How did you stack them? Did you have to rotate some of them before you raised them?

 

[Depmandog]

I think I would go ahead and build the long wall first, then have the family over to help you set and brace. Building the two end walls won't take long (especially with a framing nailer), and they can help you get the two ends set and maybe more before they go home. No sense in playing hero and giving yourself a hernia or racking your back (like mine).

One little trick, snap a straight line 3 1/2 inch from the floor edge. Once your wall is built take a sledge and tap the wall to the line. From what will be the bottom side of the sole plate, shoot a few nails (toenail the plate) to the subfloor. When the wall is raised, these toenails will keep the wall lined up with your chalk line...and keep the bottom from sliding off the deck.

After all the walks are up, you will want to take some nips and cut those nails and whack them a couple of times to bury the sharp edges.

What are you using for siding, or sheeting or both? If you are sheeting, this can be done while the walls are on the deck. Make sure the cross measure to square the wall before you sheet. If for some reason you don't put sheeting or siding on - make sure to cut in some diagonal bracing. You want that wall rigid before you raise it.

Looking good!!

 

[NormL]

Not a bad idea. I hadn't thought about stacking them. I've been mulling over ways to stand the walls up by myself. The best idea so far involves lifting the wall by pulling it up with my FEL and using a carefully measured stop rope on the other side. If I could find a way to stack them like you said, I could just have the family come over for a lunch on a Saturday and we could raise the walls.

How did you stack them? Did you have to rotate some of them before you raised them?

It's so long ago, I have to try thinking back to the time. That was when I was still "strong like ox - and just as thick of skull", that latter bit lingers I'm afraid. As I recall, I first decided the order in which I wanted the walls going into place. The first one I built would be the last one raised. I built them one on top of the other, making certain that there would be little need to do more than minor adjustments positioning them once up. It was a bit awkward building different dimensioned walls (larger/longer over smaller/shorter) but I managed. I'm no master carpenter by any stretch and there were some boo boos I'm sure but the basic idea worked well for me. I used the square of the sheeting to keep the walls square and for the most part that worked OK. When the walls were ready and my neighbour and his BIL on site, it was easy enough to pull each section of wall a few inches over to where it would stand right up where it would latter be bolted down to the cement floor. Since you are building on wood floor you might be more concerned about the wall sliding off the edge. Three or four short pieces of 2x4 nailed or screwed on the vertical along the edge will keep them from slipping away. Depmandog's post has good advice also. You'll get 'er done!:thumbsup:

 

[Iplayfarmer]

What are you using for siding, or sheeting or both? If you are sheeting, this can be done while the walls are on the deck. Make sure the cross measure to square the wall before you sheet. If for some reason you don't put sheeting or siding on - make sure to cut in some diagonal bracing. You want that wall rigid before you raise it.

Looking good!!

The walls will be sheeted with the same recycled concrete forms that I used for the subfloor (3/4" plywood). Good advice to sheet the walls before I stand them up. That will help the walls be more rigid. It will also be a lot easier to man-handle plywood sheets into place on the horizontal plane that on the vertical plane. I've also seen advice to put the house wrap on with the walls down, too. I don't have the housewrap yet; so I'll have to see about that one.

The current plan is to do stucco for the final finish. The house and garage are both done in stucco. Not only do I hope to coordinate the workshop with the house and garage, but I hope to learn a little about stucco so that I can do some patching and repairs on the house later down the road.

I... I built them one on top of the other, making certain that there would be little need to do more than minor adjustments positioning them once up. It was a bit awkward building different dimensioned walls (larger/longer over smaller/shorter) but I managed...

Thanks for the details. I think your comment about building different dimensioned walls being difficult was the most helpful. That means I did understand the concept to begin with.

I'm still undecided how I'm going to do the framing. I looked up the code for subfloor screws and I severely misjudged it. The code calls for screws every 12 inches in the field and every 6 inches on the edges. I may go back and add another screw between each one I've already done. It won't be any cheaper or easier than it is now.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

I added screws to the subfloor. I went back and added an extra two every 16 inches on the perimeter and I added one in between each screw on the rest. That puts me every 5-6 inches around the perimeter and approximately every 8 inches in the field. That should at least do it.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

I'm back into this project, and I have a question... What size should my beams be that hold up the shed side roof?

The beams I'm talking about are the horizontal beams that are red in the attached pictures. The upright poles are 9 1/2' apart. The beams will be 12' from each other.

It seems to me that 2X8's should be a good size for this application, but I'd love to get some opinions.

The roof will be shingled. The roof pitch is about 4.5/12

 

[BeezFun]

I'm back into this project, and I have a question... What size should my beams be that hold up the shed side roof?

The beams I'm talking about are the horizontal beams that are red in the attached pictures. The upright poles are 9 1/2' apart. The beams will be 12' from each other.

It seems to me that 2X8's should be a good size for this application, but I'd love to get some opinions.

The roof will be shingled. The roof pitch is about 4.5/12

IBC span tables don't go that low a span (the building is 12' wide if I understand your drawing). Residential rule of thumb is 1" of header depth for every foot beam length, for wall spans under 20' and 30psf ground snow rating. So I'd say double 2x8s is probably OK if you have good lumber, I think I'd go double 2x10s to be comfortable. Be careful how they're fastened to the post. If the post is big enough, I'd notch it for at least one of the beams, preferably both, and use a couple 1/2" through bolts with large washers. Put dummy posts in the location of each midspan truss/rafter to make sure the load is properly shared between headers and they act as a single structure to resist rolling.

 

[edlegault]

IPlayFarmer:

Your project is looking good.
Question: What software did you use for your drawings?