Root Cellar Remodel, Split Level Storage, Shop, Shed Pole Building on a Foundation

[Iplayfarmer]

...Put dummy posts in the location of each midspan truss/rafter to make sure the load is properly shared between headers and they act as a single structure to resist rolling.

You're going to have to explain that one better. I'm not sure I understand. Are you talking about extra framing between the ceiling joists and the rafters or something else?

I'll probably go with doubled 2X10's for the headers between poles. The difference in cost between 2X8's and 2X10's is about $18. It's worth that for the peace of mind.

[Iplayfarmer]

I got the first wall up!! I decided to go ahead and try to lift it myself. It's only a 12' wall, but it took everything I had to get it up and in place. Juggling the wall, the brace, and the nail gun all at the same time to secure it in place was a challenge, too.

The first picture shows the wall assembled on the deck. The second shows how I set the wall up on cinder blocks to get it started. The third picture shows the wall upright. After that last picture I added a second brace and plumbed the wall a little better. By then it was too dark to take pictures.

With that 2X8 header this could be the heaviest wall I have. I'll make the other short wall next and probably stand it up solo, too. I've lined up some help for Saturday that will make standing up the longer walls a little easier.

[MotorSeven]

Yep...working alone makes us very.....creative. I picked up a couple of old metal pulleys at a few different auctions. When building the house they sure came in handy when configured into a block and tackle. Friends would come by, look up and go, "how in the heck did you get that up there?"

Looking good

[BeezFun]

You're going to have to explain that one better. I'm not sure I understand. Are you talking about extra framing between the ceiling joists and the rafters or something else?

Look at page 11 on this link, they call it a stub post. Normally a header is a solid sandwich with 1/2" plywood in between the headers. When the headers straddle a post, they need to be tied together somehow so they act like a structure.

[Iplayfarmer]

Look at page 11 on this link, they call it a stub post. Normally a header is a solid sandwich with 1/2" plywood in between the headers. When the headers straddle a post, they need to be tied together somehow so they act like a structure.

Thanks. That makes perfect sense now. That's a handy file in that link. Thanks for sharing it. My original plan included boards nailed together on the same side of the post. Is the method shown in the file with a board on either side of the header a better method?

[Iplayfarmer]

More progress.

My dog woke me up at about 4:30 this morning. I couldn't get back to sleep, so a soon as I had some daylight I went back out to work on the shop. I got all of the full height studs nailed in place on the second short wall. That's the first picture.

I figured out a trick that most of you probably already knew. In order to keep the wall square while I was building it I put a few small nails into the subfloor at the corners of the wall. That's the second picture. I nailed in the end studs and then tweaked the wall until the diagonal measurements were equal accross all four corners and then put the nails in to keep it there while I built the rest of it. I'll have to pick up some 2X6's for the door and window headers in that wall, and then finish it up tonight.

The third picture is the first wall again after I had added the second brace and with a little more light.

[BeezFun]

My original plan included boards nailed together on the same side of the post. Is the method shown in the file with a board on either side of the header a better method?

I believe putting boards on either side of post is better because it's a symmetric loading. This puts the post into pure compression as opposed to compression and bending. It also puts the fasteners into pure shear as opposed to a combination of tension, bending and shear, so it makes the fastener design easier. Another benefit to having one of the header boards on the outside of the post is it becomes a girt at the top of the wall, saves you a piece of lumber. You've never said what your snow loading is, I don't know where you are in Idaho but there are obviously places that get large amounts of snow, hope you're figuring that into things.

[doxford jim]

I find your project very interesting and what you are doing has helped me in many ways.

I am going to be building a 24' x 26' car port this summer and what you are doing will be a big help - especially that link to "PostframeHH" PDF document.

On the carport, I had planned on putting my (6" x 6") posts on 8ft centres and using 2" x 10" dimensioned lumber for the roof trusses to sit on - one each side of the posts. I thought that laying a 2" x 8" across the top of the two vertical 2"x10" would make a wall top and a good load bearing surface for the roof trusses (in my area we get a lot of snow each winter so snow load considerations are a must). In my case I am overdesigning it - better to stay up than to have to do it twice over

Sorry I didn't mean to sidetrack your thread - just thought you would be interested to know that what you are doing is a great help to others.

Thanks

Jim

[Iplayfarmer]

I believe putting boards on either side of post is better because it's a symmetric loading. This puts the post into pure compression as opposed to compression and bending. It also puts the fasteners into pure shear as opposed to a combination of tension, bending and shear, so it makes the fastener design easier. Another benefit to having one of the header boards on the outside of the post is it becomes a girt at the top of the wall, saves you a piece of lumber. You've never said what your snow loading is, I don't know where you are in Idaho but there are obviously places that get large amounts of snow, hope you're figuring that into things.

I am going to build a framed rafter roof rather than use trusses. If I put a board on either side of the post, I'll only have one board supporting the rafter. I suppose that the ceiling joist may indirectly transfer some of the load to the inside board.

Things to ponder.

I find your project very interesting and what you are doing has helped me in many ways.

I am going to be building a 24' x 26' car port this summer and what you are doing will be a big help - especially that link to "PostframeHH" PDF document.

On the carport, I had planned on putting my (6" x 6") posts on 8ft centres and using 2" x 10" dimensioned lumber for the roof trusses to sit on - one each side of the posts. I thought that laying a 2" x 8" across the top of the two vertical 2"x10" would make a wall top and a good load bearing surface for the roof trusses (in my area we get a lot of snow each winter so snow load considerations are a must). In my case I am overdesigning it - better to stay up than to have to do it twice over

Sorry I didn't mean to sidetrack your thread - just thought you would be interested to know that what you are doing is a great help to others.

Thanks

Jim

Sidetracking is welcome. It invites more eyes and brings in more observations and advice.

[BeezFun]

I am going to build a framed rafter roof rather than use trusses. If I put a board on either side of the post, I'll only have one board supporting the rafter. I suppose that the ceiling joist may indirectly transfer some of the load to the inside board.

Yes, the ceiling joist should sit on the header. It's easier to use a hurricane tie to connect the joist to the header than to try and connect the rafter to the header. Don't toenail the rafter into the header, just splits the material and doesn't provide much strength.