my deck/patio project

[Mike476]

Going to be a nice size, are you planning to step the levels at all or keep it all the same height?

[Chooglin]

Going to be a nice size, are you planning to step the levels at all or keep it all the same height?

The deck will be all one level with a set of steps going down to the patio.

[dieselscout80]

Are you going to have a roof over it?

I want to do about the same thing, but I want to run a roof over it perpendicular to our main roof's ridge line and I want the deck/patio to have the same type roof as the house has rather than a flat roof.

My thinking is if I tied it into our house's roof I could possibly vault the living room's cieling at the same time (likely a pipe dream though).

Any thoughts on this.

PS it looks great.

[mattbatson]

question
did you coat the 6x6 posts with anything before encasing in concrete?

will the posts last a long time if sitting underground in concrete?

I'm in the process of planning a deck that I will then mount a quonset hut onto, and am trying to research the best procedure for the foundation.

[Chooglin]

Are you going to have a roof over it?

I want to do about the same thing, but I want to run a roof over it perpendicular to our main roof's ridge line and I want the deck/patio to have the same type roof as the house has rather than a flat roof.

My thinking is if I tied it into our house's roof I could possibly vault the living room's cieling at the same time (likely a pipe dream though).

Any thoughts on this.

PS it looks great.

No roof over the deck but the patio area will have a pergola over it.

vaulting your cieling would be nice,my sister and her husband did that to
there house 2 years ago...............it came out real nice.

[ETpilot]

Are you going to have a roof over it?

I want to do about the same thing, but I want to run a roof over it perpendicular to our main roof's ridge line and I want the deck/patio to have the same type roof as the house has rather than a flat roof.

My thinking is if I tied it into our house's roof I could possibly vault the living room's cieling at the same time (likely a pipe dream though).

Any thoughts on this.

PS it looks great.

I am doing basically what you have in mind. I have a workshop (30x40) with an outside concrete slab 20x18. I have spent many years working out there in the hot sun. So I am adding a roof that will tie into the shop. From the air it will have a T shape. It will have 4/12 pitch to match the shop roof. I set my last support pipe in concrete today. Debating starting a thread on it and a shed I am going to build.

My limited knowledge about setting wooden posts is that there are 2 recommended ways. One is pour a footing for the post and use a post anchor to attach the post to the footing. The other is dig your post hole and pour about 4" of gravel into the hole, level, set post, pour another couple of inches of gravel then concrete. Also make the bottom of the hole wider than the vertical sides.

I have use both methods. For a flat roof over my back patio I went with anchor method. For a carport off of the work shop I set PT 4x4 in concrete. That was in 1990. I have not experienced any problems.

[Chooglin]

question
did you coat the 6x6 posts with anything before encasing in concrete?

will the posts last a long time if sitting underground in concrete?

I'm in the process of planning a deck that I will then mount a quonset hut onto, and am trying to research the best procedure for the foundation.

depending on your codes,you may not be allowed to concrete around the post.

In my case,I drilled a 40" hole and mixed 1, 80# bag of concrete per hole and poured it in the hole.After it dries, you drop the post in the hole and the concrete acts as a footer.

I have heard of people using a rubber type boot around the post before placing it in the hole.

They should last 25 years + without a problem.

[Chooglin]

Moving along
I got off to a late start tonight (my helper was late getting to my house).
but I did get quite a bit done.the support beam is in and some of the floor joist.
Tomorrow I will be laying down the plastic and gravel and setting the rest of the floor joist.
They are calling for rain Sunday ,so I will get the day off

that is all for today.

[Chooglin]

I am doing basically what you have in mind. I have a workshop (30x40) with an outside concrete slab 20x18. I have spent many years working out there in the hot sun. So I am adding a roof that will tie into the shop. From the air it will have a T shape. It will have 4/12 pitch to match the shop roof. I set my last support pipe in concrete today. Debating starting a thread on it and a shed I am going to build.

My limited knowledge about setting wooden posts is that there are 2 recommended ways. One is pour a footing for the post and use a post anchor to attach the post to the footing. The other is dig your post hole and pour about 4" of gravel into the hole, level, set post, pour another couple of inches of gravel then concrete. Also make the bottom of the hole wider than the vertical sides.

I have use both methods. For a flat roof over my back patio I went with anchor method. For a carport off of the work shop I set PT 4x4 in concrete. That was in 1990. I have not experienced any problems.

I built a porch on the front off my house back in 1994,and I did build a roof over it.I set my post to our codes hear in my county.40" deep hole with 8" of concrete in the bottom.

I vote for you starting a thread on your project,I love following threads like this.

[EddieWalker]

Just wondering why you decided to go the ledger board route??

Personally, I dont like the ledger method. I like setting posts next to the house. Several reasons. (I am sure there are also good reasons to use a ledger)

First, where I live, anything attached to the house has different (more strict) codes to follow.

Second, If it is an "attachment" to the house, homeowners insurance goes up a tad. Not much but still...

Third, I dont like the idea of peeling siding off and risking NOT getting it sealed back up good causing rot to the house.

Not saying you are doing anything wrong, because lots of decks are built that way. I just never understood or heard a good reason. That is why I have always set posts and had a "free" standing deck.

Good luck with the build and keep us posted with pleanty of pics

Using a properly attached ledger board will give the deck more strength then a free standing deck. The mass of the existing building creates a solid, unmoving side to the deck. It just about eliminates racking on decks that are just a few feet above grade, and there is no twisting like you see in free standing decks. You will have a stronger deck, with less material.

While your points of having to deal with inspections and insurance have some validity, all that really means is that they are going to make sure that it's built to a minimum standard.

Free standing decks are used on mobile homes around here because there isn't a good way to secure a ledger board to the side of them.

Eddie