barn truss

   / barn truss #2  
Probably need a little more information to get a meaningful reply. If you are just spanning 12', a truss is probably unneeded. Without more information, can't tell for sure.

Good luck and take care.
 
   / barn truss #4  
I am about to build a 14 x20. Just using rafters to slope the roof in one direction only. Simpler.
 
   / barn truss
  • Thread Starter
#5  
I am about to build a 14 x20. Just using rafters to slope the roof in one direction only. Simpler.

im spaning 12 feet wide ,i was looking at barn type .looking for high so i can get my bx24 in during the winter
 
   / barn truss #6  
Me too, I gotta get my Cub 7305 in mine (see avatar). Doing 8' walls on the low side and 10' on the high side. 2' roof pitch over 14', kinda low slope, but whatever, it'll be a metal roof.

Even with a "barn-type", you should make your side walls tall enough for the BX to fit through/under. Nice to have flexibility in your door arrangements.
 
   / barn truss #7  
I am in the process of building a 14 x14 building. the trusses I built were simple. 14' 2x4 across the bottom 2x4 "rafters" and a 2x4 king post vertical in the center. that design should work for anything less than 16' according to the info. I got on the net.
 
   / barn truss #8  
Me too, I gotta get my Cub 7305 in mine (see avatar). Doing 8' walls on the low side and 10' on the high side. 2' roof pitch over 14', kinda low slope, but whatever, it'll be a metal roof.

Even with a "barn-type", you should make your side walls tall enough for the BX to fit through/under. Nice to have flexibility in your door arrangements.

To the OP - if you are building any kind of shed for your tractor, the walls should be tall enough for the tractor to go in, regardless of what you do with you roof trusses or rafters, in my opinion.

You can build really simple king-post trusses (described in Ed's post) that I'm sure would do the job. I've build several like that that span up to 24', suing 2x6 for the top chord, 2x4s for the bottom and vertical.

Good luck and take care.
 
   / barn truss #9  
To the OP - if you are building any kind of shed for your tractor, the walls should be tall enough for the tractor to go in, regardless of what you do with you roof trusses or rafters, in my opinion.

If you want the dutch gambrel look to minimize the visual size of the structure (or to just add character) you can do the main roof section with a simple king post gable truss like everyone else is describing, then build out the angled side roof sections by stick framing the rafters and soffits. For sheds, I usually see this end about halfway down the wall. If you sheath it only up to where the soffits start, you have the added advantage of built in shelves on the inside over the soffits. For appearance, I like to add a 6 to 12" overhang off the ends on both the top and side sections of the roof. This can be a simple "ladder" just nailed on over your side sheating flush with your trusses (main) and rafters (sides). Then let the roof sheathing overlap onto the "ladder" to help tie it all in.

The angles usually match, so if the main roof is 3/12, the side roof is something like 12/3. If your main roof is 12' wide, then coming down the wall 6' (from the _top_ of the truss at the side wall) can give a balanced look.
 
   / barn truss #10  
I built some gambrel rafters spanning 16' as shown on the attached pictures. They do meet at a ridge board, so they are rafters and not true trusses, but I did it that way so that I had more usable space on the 2nd floor of my little barn. Doing it like this, there is no bottom chord, but the 2nd floor joist serve the purpose to keep the outside walls from spreading.

Good luck and take care.
 

Attachments

  • DSC00442.JPG
    DSC00442.JPG
    293.9 KB · Views: 903
  • DSC00443.JPG
    DSC00443.JPG
    300 KB · Views: 1,143
 
Top