New Home Begins

[mjncad]

Anyone have ideas on running 2" ABS through the IJoists? Do I really have to piece smaller pieces in to fit and use couplings? The drain for the laundry and kitchen have about 7' of run perpendicular to the IJoists, then its a 90 degree turn and 38' run to the main 4" trunk, parallel to the IJoists.

I think you're stuck piecing it together I hate to say. Maybe, just maybe if the ABS has enough flex you can cuss and beat it in there with help from a buddy; but I wouldn't count on it. If you were talking 1/2" PVC, then I'd say you'd have a shot at it.

A 2" nominal pipe is going to require a 2.5" hole as a bare minimum; but 3" is more likely. Have you checked the I-joist manufacturer's instructions for drilling holes in the web. The manufacturer will have instructions as to max hole size, location, and whether you'll need to reinforce the holes with plywood or something similar. If you were using built-up floor joists made from 2x4's, then I'd say you'd have a 50-50 chance of wiggling the ABS pipe through.

 

[tkappeler]

Dave,

I have seen the siamesed wire online before. The pulls were really short .... less than 50 feet or so. I had both the cat5e and RG6 on hand. I still need to run one RG6 out to the pole but that is for another day. The circuit panel is done out to the meter socket. The meter to pole still needs to be done but I want to wait to get the fill to the back of the house done before I trench for that. The trench will be about 100' to get from pole, around the side of the garage to the meter behind that.

Pictures forthcoming

 

[tkappeler]

I think you're stuck piecing it together I hate to say. Maybe, just maybe if the ABS has enough flex you can cuss and beat it in there with help from a buddy; but I wouldn't count on it. If you were talking 1/2" PVC, then I'd say you'd have a shot at it.

A 2" nominal pipe is going to require a 2.5" hole as a bare minimum; but 3" is more likely. Have you checked the I-joist manufacturer's instructions for drilling holes in the web. The manufacturer will have instructions as to max hole size, location, and whether you'll need to reinforce the holes with plywood or something similar. If you were using built-up floor joists made from 2x4's, then I'd say you'd have a 50-50 chance of wiggling the ABS pipe through.

Field cuts in the web are fine, within limits. The picture below shows the parameters for cutting.

 

[mjncad]

Tom:

Thanks for posting the picture from TJI's (I assume) website. I'm surprised the max hole size in the web can be 3/4 the web's depth. With that in mind, you might have a fair shot at getting a 2" ABS pipe through the web. I'm assuming the 2" pipe is a vent pipe or a sink drain.

 

[tkappeler]

Lots of work going on but not a lot to show just yet. My wife and I completed the electric and the inspection is scheduled for later this week.

I have the rough DWV done for the laundry and kitchen done and one bathroom. About 20' more of 4" ABS and one bathroom and then that will be done. I hope to wrap up the drains by the weekend and get the PEX in next week.

I am ordering the siding tomorrow and hopefully will be starting that sometime next week as well.

 

[955Lincoln]

Thanks for the update tk!

I have never seen those plastic clamps before on top of your panel. Do you like them more than the old style metal?
Conduit all the way from the meter? I can't figure out what kind of fitting the service entrance is going through.
Does Jersey or Square D allow more than one neutral per screw?

 

[tkappeler]

Thanks for the update tk!

I have never seen those plastic clamps before on top of your panel. Do you like them more than the old style metal?
Conduit all the way from the meter? I can't figure out what kind of fitting the service entrance is going through.
Does Jersey or Square D allow more than one neutral per screw?

I like the plastic clamps a lot. Two 12 or 14 gauge wires per clamp. Simply pull it through and when done, push the lock into the slot and squeeze with a pair of pliers. As for the conduit, the meter is directly above the panel and it was easier to put the conduit directly to the box because of the rough concrete edge at the top of the superior walls that the 4-0 would have to go around. The meter will have conduit as well since the service will be underground.

This is the fitting that comes off the bottom of the meter outside (left side of picture) and the 90 degree bend off that through the rim joist to the panel in the basement.



As for the neutrals, one neutral per screw. Only the grounds are doubled. There are not enough lugs for 33 +/- neutrals and 33 +/- grounds so some have to be doubled. I could not find anything in the CodeCheck that says it cannot be done. I do have like sizes in one screw (12-12, 14-14) to insure that they will remain tight. I replaced the panel a few years ago in my old home and the inspector did not flag doubled up grounds.

But now you have me wondering ... I can check more before the inspection on Friday.

 

[tkappeler]

Oops. I may have to add some wire protection on wires within 6' of the attic scuttle. I am not sure how to handle that since ALL wiring in the hall is within 6' of the scuttle and code says that has to be "protected" by some solid blocking. I will check it out tomorrow to see if I just have to drop a 2x4 or two up there to protect it. In the worst case, I will let the inspector have at it and see what he says. They do seems really reasonable.

 

[dstig1]

Yes, that is all they mean by protected in this case. Just run some boards next to the wire so you aren't stepping on the wires when getting up in there.

 

[955Lincoln]

I'm getting ready to do some electrical work similar to yours so I'm really curious about this stuff. What is that connector at the top of your panel that the service goes through. A reducer, an offset, both? I know metal conduit requires a smooth nut or bushing (don't know what it's called) where the cables exit the conduit but is there nothing needed for PVC? I thought I saw a double neutral on the bottom left bar so that is why I was asking.

Thanks again for your time