Truss question for Garden Shed Build

[hunterridgefarm]

What if I used the ridge board and tied the walls in with the bottom cords every 24 inches, kind of like this below.

I have built barns in the past and sheds and always used the ridgeboards.

 

[KennyG]

Ridge board and rafters - no question. Having gone both ways with small garages, I think the ridge board and stick build would be easier when working alone than trusses. All you need to do is erect a temporary vertical post on each end to locate the ridge board and then you only have to handle one rafter at a time. Even a 16 foot truss will do great damage if it slips and flips on you.

Since you are going to have attic storage. You can build the "floor" and lay most of the flooring before you put up the rafters. Working from that raised platform makes stick building the roof almost fun. I've done it this way before with a full hip roof and it makes it an easy one man job. I would suggest you go to at least 2x8 for the floor joists. I would also put both the rafters and joists on 16 inch centers. That allows you to use the nominal 1/2 inch sheathing and will give you a lot more support. I did a garage overhead storage with 2x6, 16 inch centers on a 12 foot span and it was OK but marginal. Seemed to me like it was a little bouncy. When you get done, you will never remember the few extra dollars you spent on framing lumber.

 

[GreenAtLast]

I like KennyG's suggestion. Once floored, you can walk back and forth at will. Much safer that way.

 

[hunterridgefarm]

Make sure that your FEL can safely lift the trusses into position after building them. Once built, they will be heavy and moving them around will be problematic by yourself. Doing it alone, I do not think a ridgeboard will work in your case. You would have to frame up some temporary supports just to hold the ridgeboard while you build the trusses in place and getting it level over that distance will be a problem. If you pre-frame the trusses, get the first one stood up and level and put up some temporary supports to keep it that way. Then space out the next one and add a temporary bridge to the first truss with a 2x4 while nailing it down. Keep adding trusses and 2x4's to keep the trusses upright and spaced properly at the top. One method I use is to take an 8 foot 2x4, and add to one end a 21 inch 2x4 piece, leaving 3 inches of the 8 footer exposed. With this tacked in place to the proceeding truss, it allows you to get the 24 inch spacing without a lot of effort, important since you are working alone. I then add a standard 2x4 to hold it there and move my spacing 2x4 to the next truss. A cordless screw gun works great for this. Remove the temporary bridges as you add roof sheets.

This was what I was planning on doing.:thumbsup: I don't think the tractor will have a problem lifting the truss into place.

I know it will take some time doing it by myself but I don't have much choice. I have a couple of friends that could help but they are extreamlly busy this time of year. Other friends just hire someone to do this kind of work and would be more of a hindrance than help:confused3:

 

[hunterridgefarm]

Ridge board and rafters - no question. Having gone both ways with small garages, I think the ridge board and stick build would be easier when working alone than trusses. All you need to do is erect a temporary vertical post on each end to locate the ridge board and then you only have to handle one rafter at a time. Even a 16 foot truss will do great damage if it slips and flips on you.

Since you are going to have attic storage. You can build the "floor" and lay most of the flooring before you put up the rafters. Working from that raised platform makes stick building the roof almost fun. I've done it this way before with a full hip roof and it makes it an easy one man job. I would suggest you go to at least 2x8 for the floor joists. I would also put both the rafters and joists on 16 inch centers. That allows you to use the nominal 1/2 inch sheathing and will give you a lot more support. I did a garage overhead storage with 2x6, 16 inch centers on a 12 foot span and it was OK but marginal. Seemed to me like it was a little bouncy. When you get done, you will never remember the few extra dollars you spent on framing lumber.

Good idea. I don't plan on it really being a second floor for anything except storage for boxes and some greenhouse items. It will not be a place to "walk around".

And if using the ridge board I would do the temporary vertical post on each end. Now that I think about it this may be the easiest way.

What size ridge board 2x6?

 

[GreenAtLast]

A 1x6 would be adequate. The load will be carried by the truss.

 

[EddieWalker]

The best way to get overhead storage would be ridge board with rafters. What's your reason for using trusses instead?

I agree with this.

Why over complicate this with trusses? Its a small building. just buy 7 2x12's and lay them across the top of your walls, then set your ridge board and cut your rafters. Seems like a cheap and easy way to get it done.

Eddie

 

[hunterridgefarm]

I agree with this.

Why over complicate this with trusses? Its a small building. just buy 7 2x12's and lay them across the top of your walls, then set your ridge board and cut your rafters. Seems like a cheap and easy way to get it done.

Eddie

Would 2x6 or 2x8 not work just as well since there will not be a lot of weight on the storage space. The 16 x12 enclosed part will have a 4x16 storage space in the back and front with 4' open in the middle. Total height, clearence, will be 48" or 72" dependng on the pitch. I know you have a lot of building experence and thats why I am asking...Thanks

Thats why I love TBS...got a problem or questions you can find the answer here!

 

[EddieWalker]

You can go smaller, but at 16 feet, you will have some sag. I wouldn't go with 2x6's. They will sag over that span from just their own weight. 2x8s might too. Should be fine with 2x10's, but if you price the difference for 7 2x10s compared to 7 2x12s, I don't think it's enough money to be a big deal.

Eddie

 

[GPintheMitten]

You can go smaller, but at 16 feet, you will have some sag. I wouldn't go with 2x6's. They will sag over that span from just their own weight. 2x8s might too. Should be fine with 2x10's, but if you price the difference for 7 2x10s compared to 7 2x12s, I don't think it's enough money to be a big deal.

Eddie

I agree, make the floor joists (they are not bottom chords) 2x12, but according to my calculations, you would need 10 16'ers, if you are going 16" on center, to cover your 12' floor. You might not store much up there, but once built, someone (think future owners) will put some heavy stuff up there. Then, nail down floor sheeting (I recommend 3/4" OSB, T&G), glued and nailed. Initially cover the middle 8' of the span until you get your rafters in place. Place your OSB the long way across your floor joists, with a seam in the middle, but stagger the seams on the 4' side.

Then you have a sturdy platform on which to work to place your temporary ridge posts in on each end and mount your ridge board. If you need to you can place a step ladder on the second floor to work at the ridge. Your rafters are spanning 8' but you will need 10'ers or longer depending on overhang and pitch. I would place them on 16" centers, next to your floor joists, which will be another point to nail to.

I'm not sure what the rafter should be, probably 2x8's .

This method should be much easier on you to build single handed, than with trusses. Don't forget to mark your ridge board for 16" centers before you mount it up, it will make placement of rafters easier. Much easier than running a tape when it is up in the air.