moving trees from woods to yard?

[agcomike]

I am building a fruit tree and misc tree lot out in my back yard.

I'm moving about 20 1-3' tall trees ranging from fruit to oaks etc.. what's easiest way to get'em out the ground and back in and keep them healthy?

 

[MarkStewart]

I would say dig them out with a shovel, being carefull to not damage the roots. Dig out some of the dirt where they are growing at the present time. Place them in your wheelbarrow etc. Dig new hole three times the size of the root system, place some of the dirt that they were growing in with it. Tamp it down slightly making sure there are no air pockets under the roots. Then water them daily etc. when they need it. Placing some mulch around the tree would also help them to retain some of the moisture. some info. info I transplanted some white pine trees from my woods last year this way and they seem to be growing well in their new location.
Good luck

 

[Rick Jay]

I agree with everything except </font><font color="blue" class="small">( ...dig them out with a shovel...)</font>

That's one of the reasons I got my backhoe. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif So, if you've got one, you might wish to use that instead of the shovel. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

~Rick

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Transplating a tree is not a good idea right now. It's better to wait until the fall and winter to transplant established trees, ones that aren't in the burlapped ball anymore. When we dig big trees out of the field, we then use an old seat belt attached to a chain to transport the tree, using the seat belt to rap around twice and only twice around the trunk. That way no damage is done from the chain. If you take a shovel, and make a complete cut around the tree, then you can use the hoe to take out the tree. That's how we do things, obviously if the tree is too big, we don't bother first using shovels, we just use the backhoe. Try also to get as much of the roots as you can.

Blake
WA

 

[bellweather]

I also think you should wait until fall when the trees go dormant to transplant. Moving during the growing season can really stress a tree. Also, certain oaks are very difficult to transplant successfully. That's why they're expensive at the nurseries because they have to grow them from an acorn.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Someone once told me that it is a good idea to make a note of which side of the tree is facing south, and to put it back in the ground facing the same way that it came out.

I don't know if it makes a difference or not. But it seemed like a reasonable thing to do, since trees do know where south [or the best light] is. Might just help the tree's transition to the new location...or may make no difference whatsoever...

 

[BubbaJr]

Check out the Tree Toad . They come in 3PH versions too. Another new toy/tool for the tractor.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Ditto the comments about waiting until fall\early winter. When you do it, there are fertilizers and items you can purchase that are specifically made to help plants with transplant shock, and help stimulate the root system in their new home. The better, larger, more wholesale type nurseries in your area should be able to get that stuff for you & make the best recommendations for your area (and the best time of year for transplanting the particular trees in your area to get the best chances of survival). Good luck!

 

[Slamfire]

Regarding mulching around a tree, don't let the mulch contact the tree. The tree won't appreciate having that rotten stuff contacting it. A couple of inches clearance seems to be plenty.
Don't bury the top of the root ball.

 

[kofronj]

I'd agree with the move it in late fall/early winter.

For prep work, you ought to root prune the trees now, basically sink a spade around the circumference of the drip line + a foot or two (depends how skinny). This will help to force new root growth. If you're really ambitious, you can dig a spade's width around this perimeter.

Prepare the holes for receiving the trees when the digging is good. When you transplant, you may want to use some polyacrylimide gel (hydrosorb) if you're putting them in drier spots. Fertilizers should be tipped towards the phosphate side, to promote root growth (low nitrogen, organic would be best). Do not amend the soil too much, especially if you're putting them in a clay hole; it's like putting them in an underground pot with good soil, and the roots will not grow out of the hole.