Little barn build in progress, couple questions

[radioman]

I see you are posting from MI. I'd wouldnt worry about untreated lumber being outside since the wood is already fastened to frame where it can gt air and dry out properly. Of course its best sooner the better to get the roof on. One thought tho- If you get the osb on the roof but no shingles but you do have time to put tar paper down, I'd cover it up with tarp or plastic and weigh it down since snow will ruin the OSB for sitting on it given you are from MI just like here in NYS.

 

[deezler]

One thought tho- If you get the osb on the roof but no shingles but you do have time to put tar paper down, I'd cover it up with tarp or plastic and weigh it down since snow will ruin the OSB for sitting on it given you are from MI just like here in NYS.

Even through the tar paper? I was going to roll the tar paper across and probably call it good. But if snow will still ruin the OSB through it, I'd better tarp or shingle it sooner than later? Hmmmm. We'll see about snow... last year's lack of winter had only a pittance of the white stuff. Sort of feels like mother nature is going to swing back the other way this year.

Thanks for your reply.

 

[Carl Bert]

Even through the tar paper? I was going to roll the tar paper across and probably call it good. But if snow will still ruin the OSB through it, I'd better tarp or shingle it sooner than later? Hmmmm. We'll see about snow... last year's lack of winter had only a pittance of the white stuff. Sort of feels like mother nature is going to swing back the other way this year.

Thanks for your reply.

They say the tar paper should not sit exposed to the elements, for too long. One reason is the tar paper starts to get wavy (for lack of a better word) and lifts away from the sheathing. Depending on how bad it gets, it will be noticeable when the shingles are done. They will also look wavy and won't sit nice and flat as they should. That is what happened to me 2 years ago, when I built my shed. Good luck, your off to a good start. Heres mine:

 

[radioman]

tar paper is weak to stay in place on its own relying on fasteners alone. Snow will move the tar paper all over and will curl up in the sun from the wide temps swings of snow/rain and sun. Once the paper is curling - snow that melts into ice and warms up again will just pull out the paper in sections or pieces. I been there and done that. If you dont have time to put sheathing on roof- I'd put it off till you get shingles or whatever roofing you plan to use like metal roofing.

Problem is we dont know your timeframe is before snow starts and how much time you put into building it. If you do decide to use tar paper only, and you put in wood strips to help preventing the winds from ripping it off, its cheap enough you can replace the tar paper again before the final roofing.

 

[deezler]

Thanks for the responses. Sounds like my plan for this year might be to do single or maybe double-layer tar paper, and simply tarp over that. Then come back and do shingles or metal paneling as the future budget permits. Can't really afford anything more major at this point.

Well, I am back to work on my lil' barn after a nice vacation.

After getting lag screws and carriage bolts through all the major intersections, the barn is much sturdier. Probably overkill, but me likey.

Got all the rafters and fascia boards up now. Next step is purlins and sheeting.

Now I just gotta figure out how to do the walls/girts.

 

[Dr Dave]

Looking good sofar!

Dave

 

[tcreeley]

I've had good luck with tarps. I'd lay 2x4 16 oc across your rafters and tarp over that nailing the tarp down along the edges. Take the 2X4-s off when you want to sheathe or cover over them with metal panels or sheathing.
If you sheathe the roof- I'd use 3/4" plywood. You need to have something thick enough to hold shingle nails- even then I don't like it much. Cheaper than plywood are rough cut 1x4's. They work fine. Shiplap- rough on one side has a uniform thickness. I used to buy a lift of rough cut (1000 brd ft) #5 pine/spruce. I'd choose out the boards and cut out the red rot, etc- literally the cheapest way to go. Local saw mills will usually sell this stuff.

Also you need metal (or wood) ties between your rafters View attachment 284915

They make the whole roof act as one piece and eliminate any tendency for a rafter to want to role. You'll notice the difference when you walk on it- stiffer. Pretty cheap- wood blocking does the same.

Good luck.

 

[deezler]

I already have a huge pile of 10' 2x4s and 7/16" OSB sheets that were too good a deal to pass up (10 cents on the dollar, lightly used). So unfortunately my budget says that's what I have to use. Not a fan of the OSB at all, but plywood or full metal paneling is wayyyy too expensive.

I wasn't sure whether to go with 16" OC or 24" OC for the purlins, but I will be laying them all the way across the rafters. Pretty sure that will tie them together plenty strong.

 

[tcreeley]

The OSB really needs to stay dry to keep it from flaking and losing its structural strength. Good wall material on top of a 2x4 stud wall.

 

[ustmd]

Thanks for the responses. Sounds like my plan for this year might be to do single or maybe double-layer tar paper, and simply tarp over that. Then come back and do shingles or metal paneling as the future budget permits. Can't really afford anything more major at this point.

Well, I am back to work on my lil' barn after a nice vacation.

After getting lag screws and carriage bolts through all the major intersections, the barn is much sturdier. Probably overkill, but me likey.

Got all the rafters and fascia boards up now. Next step is purlins and sheeting.

Great build...a possible problem though. Are those pressure treated boards with the carriage bolts through them into the rafters? (they have a vaguely green color to them). Are the carriage bolts stainless steel or are they ordinary zinc coated (they do not look to be galvanized). If the boards are pressure treated and the bolts are ordinary zinc, then you will have a chemical reaction that will cause rapid corrosion. Here is a good link to a discussion of the issue:

Fighting Fastener Corrosion - Decking, Locksets And Hardware - Professional Deck Builder Magazine

Not trying to snipe at you, just trying to help you avoid a future problem (and one of my past mistakes :laughing.