Board Fence Build - pictures and a question

[Qapla]

Using a standard circular saw should be able to make a true cut by using a speed square to guide the saw plate. Since you drove the posts to nearly the finished height it is not like you are going to have a large heavy piece of wood falling after the cut.

While it is true a standard saw will not cut all the way in one pass, it should cut deep enough that the remaining depth could be finished off with the reciprocating saw without making such a "large mess".

With the tools I already have, this is the way I would do what you need done.

 

[MotorSeven]

I do them with a chainsaw, but I realize that is not for everybody since it's real easy to make a mistake.

 

[randy41]

if you've got a worm drive saw you can buy an attachment that looks like a chain saw and allows for deep accurate cuts. look at prazi beam cutters.
looks like they have them for top handle saws as well.

 

[DT86]

Thank you all for your replies.

I called around yesterday morning to try and rent a big circular saw. Apparently you can't do that. I went to buy one, nobody had one.

After much consideration, encouragement from one of the guys helping and a trial run on a scrap block of wood I've decided that a chain saw isn't as bad of and idea as once believed.

 

[CBW1999]

looks good. maybe use a hand rasp to get rid of any ridges and call it good? beats sanding-

 

[DT86]

Double Double

 

[MotorSeven]

Good grief...now we are getting D e l a y e d double posts.

Anyway, yes, chainsaw...keep it real sharp(always right?), use a speed square to mark your lines on 3 sides. Take your time lining up the saw then follow the line. You might want to go slow(half throttle), but wide open will make a smoother cut.

 

[DT86]

Good grief...now we are getting D e l a y e d double posts.

Anyway, yes, chainsaw...keep it real sharp(always right?), use a speed square to mark your lines on 3 sides. Take your time lining up the saw then follow the line. You might want to go slow(half throttle), but wide open will make a smoother cut.

I think it double posted when I pulled the app back up on my phone. Why? And it will show some people's profiles but not others. Why? At least it's a free app!

I think I'll borrow my friends 011 Sthil. It's a little baby with a top handle and should be much easier to control at shoulder height than my Farm Boss.

When I made my test run I clamped a 3' piece in my vice outside, marked the top and one side with my speed square and went to work.

It really didn't rip the grain as bad as I thought it would.

I also spoke to a guy who worked for the now defunct company that built the original fence. (The one I needed to copy). That's the way they did it. I asked him how they got consistent angles and height on the tops and he laughed and said "Do 8 or 10 thousand and you'll figure it out"

 

[DT86]

Well guys here it is as of yesterday. Don't be bashful, tell me what you think!



























I haven't cut the tops yet. On my way to do that right now after I go buy more lumber for the 2nd phase.

The owners brother/caretaker of the property seems happy and so am I.

 

[DT86]

What kind of post driver did you use? I've always had trouble with driving square posts and having them turn when they go in.

As for cutting the posts, most of the big tool mfg's make a 10-12" circular saw. I've used a Milwaukee before and it was a really nice saw, cuts through 4x4 and 4x6 posts in one pass and 6x6 in two.

I have a Shaver HD10. I must admit I have a few tricks to keep them from twisting. Starting with a 4" pilot hole is a must.