Results 21 to 30 of 45
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10-16-2012, 06:38 PM #21Veteran Member
- Join Date
- Dec 2003
- Posts
- 1,700
- Location
- NC
- Tractor
- Kubota Grand L3830
Re: Board Fence Build - pictures and a question
I agree with "randy41", a Prazi Beam Cutter is the tool to use.
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10-16-2012, 06:59 PM #22Veteran Member
- Join Date
- Dec 2010
- Posts
- 1,667
- Location
- SW VA
- Tractor
- David Brown 885, Kubota RTV 900, Kubota 9540
Well I looked at them. Pretty bad a**! But I have access to a very small chain saw. I also won't have to worry about dragging out the generator.
Originally Posted by Gator6x4
Treat me good and I'll treat you better, treat me bad and I'll treat you worse.
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10-17-2012, 10:30 AM #23Platinum Member
- Join Date
- May 2008
- Posts
- 856
- Location
- Northern Vermont on the 45th parallel
- Tractor
- Kubota 7510, Toro Groundsmaster 217D
Re: Board Fence Build - pictures and a question
Nice work........ how far do you travel???
I thank God everyday for all of the blessings he has given me- especially for the one's I do not recognize or see!
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10-17-2012, 01:54 PM #24Veteran Member
- Join Date
- Dec 2010
- Posts
- 1,667
- Location
- SW VA
- Tractor
- David Brown 885, Kubota RTV 900, Kubota 9540
Thank you.
You know I don't do this work often. Unless it were at a time when I didn't need my tractor for other tasks on the farm it would have to be close to home. Close enough that I can drive it back. This job was literally 1/4 mile away.Treat me good and I'll treat you better, treat me bad and I'll treat you worse.
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10-17-2012, 03:13 PM #25Gold Member
- Join Date
- Nov 2007
- Posts
- 478
- Location
- South Carolina
Re: Board Fence Build - pictures and a question
I use a chain that I build a steel jig for that sets on the top rail if the fence. The jig a has a slot in it that interfaces with a piece of steel that is bolted to the bar of a small chain saw (12" or 14" bar) that holds the bar at 12ー angle in my case about 1" up from the top rail. One thing is to do is mount the chain saw so the clutch is facing down so it will not get clogged up with saw dust/chips.
Josh gave me the idea for the jig.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/p...ml#post1808469

IHC 424 Diesel
Ford 917 Flail Mower
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10-17-2012, 06:29 PM #26Veteran Member
- Join Date
- Dec 2010
- Posts
- 1,667
- Location
- SW VA
- Tractor
- David Brown 885, Kubota RTV 900, Kubota 9540
Originally Posted by dieselscout80
I thought about a jig that would slide across the top rail and touch the backs of the posts.Treat me good and I'll treat you better, treat me bad and I'll treat you worse.
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10-17-2012, 06:59 PM #27Platinum Member
- Join Date
- May 2008
- Posts
- 856
- Location
- Northern Vermont on the 45th parallel
- Tractor
- Kubota 7510, Toro Groundsmaster 217D
Re: Board Fence Build - pictures and a question
That is a really cool jig set up. Looks like it made quick work of that part of the job.
Curious about how long for the whole project?I thank God everyday for all of the blessings he has given me- especially for the one's I do not recognize or see!
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10-17-2012, 07:51 PM #28Member
- Join Date
- Apr 2009
- Posts
- 37
- Location
- Pennsylvania
- Tractor
- John Deere 790
Re: Board Fence Build - pictures and a question
Nice job on the fence, looks good. Here is a link to a saw for sale that would probably work for you.
Makita 16 inch Circular Saw
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10-18-2012, 06:41 PM #29Veteran Member
- Join Date
- Dec 2010
- Posts
- 1,667
- Location
- SW VA
- Tractor
- David Brown 885, Kubota RTV 900, Kubota 9540
Thank you.
Originally Posted by damartin
I can't justify buying one knowing I'll probably never need it again. I have enough stuff as it is. LOLTreat me good and I'll treat you better, treat me bad and I'll treat you worse.
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10-18-2012, 07:01 PM #30Veteran Member
- Join Date
- Dec 2010
- Posts
- 1,667
- Location
- SW VA
- Tractor
- David Brown 885, Kubota RTV 900, Kubota 9540
I guess you meant me?
Originally Posted by CBW1999
About 3.5 hours driving posts. Including a little figuring along the way. 2 hours getting them plumb. About 5 getting the boards up.
Usually 2 people working but 3 when the boards went up. One to nail, one to hold the boards in place and one to make sure we had boards on the ground where we needed and various other tasks.
We staggered the joints starting with a full 16' on the first and third boards and a 8' on the second and fourth. As we went along we put only one nail per board per post. Speeds things along and makes fixing boo boos easier. We used a wood block between the boards to get the correct spacing. After we got done two of us grabbed hammers and put another nail in each board.
The only time we used a tape measure was when I set the chop saw up to cut the facer boards.
Treat me good and I'll treat you better, treat me bad and I'll treat you worse.
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