SPIKER
Elite Member
Two things I see (partly pointed out by others.)
On the hinges, you need to weld in some brackets on each side of the tube over to the DOM tube hinge on both sides reinforcing them. One set on each side of the hinges to the pipe in the ground and the sq tube on the gate. I would suggest some 10gauge or 3/16 max of 1/4" plate.
drawing
While you are at it add some grease zerks to them for long term lasting.
On the OPEN side you should have a drop in hinge/bar that PINS the gate all the way down from top to bottom. The PIN should be S.S. or chrome molly bar so it can not be easily cut with torch. The LOCK then would keep the pin in the hinge type plates. Ideally you would have done the actual HINGE this way so it could swing from either side or be fully removable.
Cable from corner to corner on the gate will help reinforce it and is light but a steel strap/flat bar would also do this.
Make sure to get some good primer and enamel on there so it dont rust.
Mark
On the hinges, you need to weld in some brackets on each side of the tube over to the DOM tube hinge on both sides reinforcing them. One set on each side of the hinges to the pipe in the ground and the sq tube on the gate. I would suggest some 10gauge or 3/16 max of 1/4" plate.
drawing
While you are at it add some grease zerks to them for long term lasting.
On the OPEN side you should have a drop in hinge/bar that PINS the gate all the way down from top to bottom. The PIN should be S.S. or chrome molly bar so it can not be easily cut with torch. The LOCK then would keep the pin in the hinge type plates. Ideally you would have done the actual HINGE this way so it could swing from either side or be fully removable.
Cable from corner to corner on the gate will help reinforce it and is light but a steel strap/flat bar would also do this.
Make sure to get some good primer and enamel on there so it dont rust.
Mark
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