Straight Fence Line? Long Distance...

[MossflowerWoods]

My longest run so far was just over 300 feet, but I used masons twine, pulled VERY TIGHT and I ran 2 lines, one low, just above the weeds and the slight rise 3/4 down the line, the other 6" below the top of the post. This also helped me make sure the posts were straight up and down.

I was somewhat lucky that the wind mostly blew ALONG the line, and not across it...

For a long run like yours, I'd be tempted to use some t-posts every 150-200 feet... just to support the string.

Best of luck...

Be well,
David

 

[Verticaltrx]

I always set the corner posts first, then stretch a wire along the ground to align the posts. Depending on the fence type it may be high tensile wire, barbed wire or barbless cable. I then put an in-line ratchet tensioner on it at the end and crank it good and tight. String isn't durable enough and is affected by wind too much for my likings. If it's an all board fence, or something that doesn't use wire, I'll do the same but roll the wire back up when I'm done.

As for getting a fence straight over a hill, I have two methods based on how much of a rise the hill is:

1. For a gentle hill where you still cannot see the end post, I simply ratchet strap a tall pole to one of the end posts and make sure its completely plumb, then use that to sight from to drive a center post.

2. For a steep hill and/or long distances I set my two end posts and stretch a wire between them as close to where I think it needs to go as possible. Then I setup a transit (a real transit, not a builders level) over the wire on the ridge of the hill, and sight back to the first post. Then spin the transit 180* and sight back to the second post. More than likely it's way off, but it will tell you which way to move the transit. I then pick the transit and move it over and sight it again. Over and over until you get it right. It can be a bit time consuming, but if you have extremely steep and rolling terrain, it's the only way I know to get a fence going straight over it. As I mentioned before, this will require a full-function transit with fairly high power, not just a builders level.

 

[SanDucerro]

For a steep hill and/or long distances I set my two end posts and stretch a wire between them as close to where I think it needs to go as possible. Then I setup a transit (a real transit, not a builders level) over the wire on the ridge of the hill, and sight back to the first post. Then spin the transit 180* and sight back to the second post. More than likely it's way off, but it will tell you which way to move the transit. I then pick the transit and move it over and sight it again. Over and over until you get it right. It can be a bit time consuming, but if you have extremely steep and rolling terrain, it's the only way I know to get a fence going straight over it. As I mentioned before, this will require a full-function transit with fairly high power, not just a builders level.

Based on your comments, I'm assuming the transits available at the big box stores are actually builder's levels. Where would one look for a higher powered transit? Thanks!

 

[Verticaltrx]

I use one like this, just a few years older:

Welcome to David White

It too says 200' range, but for work like this it'll go much further than that. The main key features are the degree ring and the ability to tilt the scope up and down.

 

[T_e_r_r_y]

What about using a portable GPS. Gives longitude and latitude. Set it on top of starting post, check readings, go halfway. See if the starting point and

where you are at are the same. If not move over till the readings are the same. Set post, string wire, install other posts.


T.J.

 

[DT86]

What about using a portable GPS. Gives longitude and latitude. Set it on top of starting post, check readings, go halfway. See if the starting point and

where you are at are the same. If not move over till the readings are the same. Set post, string wire, install other posts.

T.J.

Wouldn't your fence have to be perfectly N-S/E-W?

 

[SanDucerro]

What about using a portable GPS. Gives longitude and latitude. Set it on top of starting post, check readings, go halfway. See if the starting point and

where you are at are the same. If not move over till the readings are the same. Set post, string wire, install other posts.


T.J.

That was an interesting idea, so I did a quick web search... Seems the consumer GPS units are very acurate - in the grand scheme of things... But not so much for percision work. The general consensus was that the GPS units could be off by a foot or more... If we were looking to locate the road out front they'd work great!

 

[rider0]

I setup a transit (a real transit, not a builders level) over the wire on the ridge of the hill, and sight back to the first post. Then spin the transit 180* and sight back to the second post. More than likely it's way off, but it will tell you which way to move the transit. I then pick the transit and move it over and sight it again. Over and over until you get it right. It can be a bit time consuming, but if you have extremely steep and rolling terrain, it's the only way I know to get a fence going straight over it. As I mentioned before, this will require a full-function transit with fairly high power, not just a builders level.

Zero the horizontal angle on the transit while sighting the first post. Resight the second post and determine range with the stadia. Check the angle to the second post on the transit. It only takes a simple trig calculation to determine how far you need to move the center post to put it in line with the two end posts. You should be able to get extremely close in one iteration. If you are upslope or downslope from the end pin, you will first need to calculate the horizontal distance since the straight line distance will be longer than the horizontal distance between you and the pin.

 

[Verticaltrx]

Zero the horizontal angle on the transit while sighting the first post. Resight the second post and determine range with the stadia. Check the angle to the second post on the transit. It only takes a simple trig calculation to determine how far you need to move the center post to put it in line with the two end posts. You should be able to get extremely close in one iteration. If you are upslope or downslope from the end pin, you will first need to calculate the horizontal distance since the straight line distance will be longer than the horizontal distance between you and the pin.

Very good info. I do this to an extent, but very crudely and quickly in my head. Usually I can get it in about three tries. Next time I'll figure it out on paper to see how it works. :thumbsup:

 

[buckeyefarmer]

My berger transit says stay within 200' only so you can read the ticks on the stick. For marking a straight line you can go much further. IVe used it over 400' easy.