Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days

[pacerron]

I uploaded the pictures, then I previewed the post and opened the pictures to view them,the I took the address for those pictures, clicked on the 'Insert image' button, chose to insert from a URL unchecked "Retrieve remote file and reference locally"
What that did was to give me the address to the picture (http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/projects/312678d1365687655-building-stick-frame-house-woods-imag0112.jpg for the big one) wrapped in [IMG] and [/IMG] tags like this:

[IMG]http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/projects/312678d1365687655-building-stick-frame-house-woods-imag0112.jpg[/IMG]

Aaron Z

Aaron,
Thanks.... That's a bunch of clickin' to repeat the original upload clickin' to get a full size embedded version.
Or in Chrome you could just right click on the thumbnail and get the address a number of ways and enter it as you said.
Either way, you would then have to go back and delete the original post with the thumb nailed attachments.
That would be wearing out my clicker instead of Jay's.
He's a lot younger than me, so he should have a lot of clicks left.
I appreciate you showing a method though. I think when TBN made the upgrade a few months ago, the ability to actually
embed an image in a post, straight away, using TBN as the server went south...
For the few pictures that I post, on occasion, I'll stick with the attachment method and let the folks decide if they are worth the effort to them to open in another browser tab or save.
Ron

 

[pclausen]

Day 80

First a couple of shots from this morning when they delivered the drywall

And the conduit the high voltage side of the power will be run in

A few pics from this afternoon as I was coming home from work looking down at the building site

House got repainted. Looks much better I think. Tomorrow they will come back and redo the trim.

They also completed the rough grading

And the stamped concrete patio is ready to pour

As is the pad at the walkout basement

Here is the bank/ditch they created. I added the blue lines to show the path of the rain water

Well in front of side basement window

Power line in and covered back up

Transformer. They will be back tomorrow to install the meter and tie into the high voltage line

All the drywall is hung.

Garage

Washer/dryer room

Entrance hallway

Office

Master bedroom

Sunroom

Living room

Kitchen

The blocking in the basement

And finally some closeups of those troubled corners at the front of the garage.

 

[BuilderML]

Peter,
I know things are going so fast now that it is hard to put all the stuff on your check list.
You probably have already listed it on the TO DO's but your images this morning point out a flaw that has been there for a long time you may want fixed.
Although BuilderML said this does not happen when making Z fascia from a coil on a pan brake, your fascia is not secure over the triangular shaped box end cover and is beginning to warble.
We really can't tell from the picture, but the triangular end trim aluminum should also go up under the fascia tail so that water flows over and not under the seam.
I'll see if I can embed this image instead of attaching. It is only 534 x 412 so should go.

Crap, it is still an attachment that you have to click on to see full size.
Somebody tell me how to embed a picture?







View attachment 312690
Ron

Ron,
You are incorrect in saying that "i said" that this wouldn't happen. First off i would not make a rake piece the way they did. The way i listed how i would do it also has 2 additional bends in it when a 1x3 is installed. What you see happening is because of the way they tie the rake in with the boot. First off that would not happen if done the way i do it. If you go back and read the post you are talking about you will see what they do and did is not at all the way i do it,
so yes i can say that what is happening on Peter's house would not happen on my job. What you see happening to me in all honesty is poor design/craft sorry just saying it the way it is. With that aside what you see is not due to how the rake piece was made but how they tie it into the "boot". You just can't do it that way. The only way "they" will fix it is by adding more nails. In doing the boot and rake the way they do which i would not recommend could really only be some what fixed by bending an "undersill" sliding it under the rake piece that is hanging over the boot. The "undersill" would follow the rake and be blind nailed then the rake would slide into the "undersill", allowing the rake to expand in the undersill. Nails will lock it in place causing more buckling in the future.Sorry folks thats why you don't do it the way they did.

 

[FairfaxStu]

Peter, the dry wall looks pretty good but not IMO great. I noticed a few alarming gaps, primarily in the vaulted ceiling. I suspect I am just a worry wort and it will all look perfect and stay that way for years and years once they are finished.

And as you said earlier, what gives with that last concrete block on the far right? Do I need to drive down there myself and knock it off?
-Stu

 

[BuilderML]

Sorry to say Peter your builder has a POOR siding sub, I would of used XP or mold/mildew resistent drywall in the garage/kitchen/laundry room and baths.
eter they didn't need bridgeing/blocking at the mid span of the floor joist? I see it over the beams only. Sorry to say Peter but your going to have problems with doors and cracking in your drywall within the next 24 months. You NEVER AND I SAY NEVER use 2 X lumber as a main beam anymore. 2 X beam will settle that much more then the rest of the floor causing that area to sag. Your doors more so those running perpendicular to the beam will start binding. When using LVL lumber as your beams you stop that from happening. Yes your joist will shrink but that is the whole floor shrinking so it all comes down even. Good luck Peter.

 

[FairfaxStu]

Sorry to say Peter your builder has a POOR siding sub, I would of used XP or mold/mildew resistent drywall in the garage/kitchen/laundry room and baths.
eter they didn't need bridgeing/blocking at the mid span of the floor joist? I see it over the beams only. Sorry to say Peter but your going to have problems with doors and cracking in your drywall within the next 24 months. You NEVER AND I SAY NEVER use 2 X lumber as a main beam anymore. 2 X beam will settle that much more then the rest of the floor causing that area to sag. Your doors more so those running perpendicular to the beam will start binding. When using LVL lumber as your beams you stop that from happening. Yes your joist will shrink but that is the whole floor shrinking so it all comes down even. Good luck Peter.

Builder:

Sorry for the stupid question, but I really don't understand your comment about the support and floor sag. I definitely agree with you that the siding guys are slacking big time. Can you refer me to a post# so that I can better understand. Like a lot of folks here, I like to offer my comments and learn something at the same time.
-Stu

 

[pclausen]

Peter, the dry wall looks pretty good but not IMO great. I noticed a few alarming gaps, primarily in the vaulted ceiling.

I'm not too worried about the vaulted ceiling area since that is all going to get covered with stained T&G pine anyway, but yeah, definitely not the best job I have ever seen. They also forgot to pull out several of the speaker wires I put in the walls, and never did cut out the half-height rack I installed in the wall in the living room.

 

[BuilderML]

Peter,
I understand that they didn't have drip edge for the roofing to match your trim color. Can you tell me why your builder didn't have the siding guys make a drip edge out of the same coil stock they used for the fascia and rakes?

Stu,
In regards to the floor sag. Ok here goes . For example you have 2x10 floor joist they will shrink about 1/4-3/8" when fully dry. Now you go and put in a 2x10 main beam that your floor joist rest on. That is going to also shrink 1/4-3/8". Remember your whole floor will shrink about the same amount so not that big of a deal. Now where the beam is the floor will lower and additional 1/4-3/8". That is were you get the problems with doors hanging up. Drywall may also crack.
When you use LVL lumber as your main beam you don't get the shrinking. If you use the I joist they have you have nearly zero shrinking in your floor.
Hope you can understand what i am getting at if not let me know i will try again.

 

[SPIKER]

Drywall went up quick, must have had a 6 or 8 guys in there. Same with the re-paint that went fast, hope the builder is not charging ya for that.

As for the shrinkage in main beam/support it should not be too bad. most all lumber is Kiln Dried now as such most all the shrinkage is built in already.

Darn sad on the corners of siding & all. Looks like the place should be ready in a few more weeks baring any more "Issues" on things.

Mark

 

[Robert_in_NY]

Drywall went up quick, must have had a 6 or 8 guys in there. Same with the re-paint that went fast, hope the builder is not charging ya for that.

As for the shrinkage in main beam/support it should not be too bad. most all lumber is Kiln Dried now as such most all the shrinkage is built in already.

Darn sad on the corners of siding & all. Looks like the place should be ready in a few more weeks baring any more "Issues" on things.

Mark

Why wouldn't the builder get paid for painting it again? He didn't choose the first color.