Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days

   / Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days #351  
Around here if the floor is stick built steel columns are typically used (not filled). The columns are set on footings prior to the basement floor being poured. Basement floors are often poured after the house is in the dry. Wood posts aren't used unless the basement will be finished and the posts are part of the framing. They are set on the finished basement floor with a footing underneath.

I believe in pclausen's build that column footings poured separate from and underneath the basement floor could settle at a different rate since the whole house is on a floating gravel foundation. The likelihood of a strong bond between a footing poured and a basement floor poured later is questionable. As constructed, any settling of the foundation will allow the house to settle as a unit. Additionally the weight bearing area is greater than a 2'x2'x12" footing and the house is a relatively light house (no second floor etc).

It appears to be better than adequate construction to me.

Very, very good explanation:thumbsup:
You covered in a few words what we have been bloviating about for days.
Good job.
 
   / Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days #352  
Here is a product that may be related to a "floating" tile floor: Untitled Document

I have seen references to isolation membranes in the instructions for thinset and tile installation, but usually for use on wood sub-floors. The concept is to isolate the tile and thinset from movement in the wood due to seasonal shrinkage, expansion and normal flexing primarily.

I could see some advantage to using it over concrete too. It should isolate the tile floor from stress cracks which are sure to form over time. If waterproof, it would prevent the thinset and tile grout from wicking up moisture from the concrete.

My previous house had a basement and the steel columns were filled with concrete and the floor was poured around them after the house was dried-in. I think code requires the top of the posts to be mechanically fastened to the floor framing now, not just held in place by pressure.
 
   / Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days #353  
Pete,
Let's get back to the basement stairs a minute. I'm glad it is going to work out.
You and others are seeing a picture where your mom never goes to the basement.

Looking at your pictures 28-26-7-8 and the time they were taken from the EXIF data, the shadows appear to indicate the front of the house and garage face primarily west.
You may not have considered having good lighting at the bottom of the stairs or even a handrail considering the infrequent use, only by yourself. I can tell you from experience that those stairwells are dark without a dedicated light above the door at the bottom of the steps.

I like to spend your money, at least with ideas:D
Let's look at a scenario of a violent storm or even a tornado, which is not uncommon in your area.
If the stair treads have good depth, the riser height is as low as possible, there is good lighting, and a sturdy handrail,
it would be nice for mom to have a quick way to seek shelter in the basement. You might even consider building her a small, safe room, in either that SW corner, or NW corner of the basement by adding a couple interior walls at 90 degrees to the outside walls with lighting and a land line telephone if that is what she uses. This could protect her from flying glass down at the other end. Might even be a good reason to go ahead and finish the basement bathroom now.
I don't intend to entertain arguments from others in this forum as to which corner is safest from building collapse.

Gotta go. It is snowing outside but here it is the 2nd of March already. We have 14 bluebird boxes on a trail that need cleaning and repairing.
Ron
 
   / Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days #354  
Ok, ok! I had one of my spies take a picture. Not up to the normal standard I know, but hey, it was the best I could do on short notice! :D

housespy.jpg

We want pictures of the house, not the little blue 'office.' :laughing:
 
   / Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days #355  
Almost all new construction around here uses engineered floor trusses that are about 24 inches tall and made of 2x4's. I haven't seen posts in a basement unless the house was built in the 50's. My first house had 2x12 beams with a triple 2x12 down the middle supported with 4x4's! It was a pretty small house though.

Do they not use these type of floor supports everywhere else? I have seen them span pretty long distances. If it gets too long, there is a load bearing wall in the basement that shortens this up. The advantage is the space for running wires and hvac.

Bump to top just to try and educate myself about the different methods.
 
   / Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days #356  
Here is a product that may be related to a "floating" tile floor: Untitled Document

I have seen references to isolation membranes in the instructions for thinset and tile installation, but usually for use on wood sub-floors. The concept is to isolate the tile and thinset from movement in the wood due to seasonal shrinkage, expansion and normal flexing primarily.

I could see some advantage to using it over concrete too. It should isolate the tile floor from stress cracks which are sure to form over time. If waterproof, it would prevent the thinset and tile grout from wicking up moisture from the concrete.

My previous house had a basement and the steel columns were filled with concrete and the floor was poured around them after the house was dried-in. I think code requires the top of the posts to be mechanically fastened to the floor framing now, not just held in place by pressure.

Dave 1949
Thanks for the article.
Here is one that shows one system and comments by folks that have tried it. Hot Or Not? Ceramic Tile Floating Floors | Toolmonger

Something I did 20 years ago when building this house was to determine how much higher the top of the tile surface would be above the sub-floor considering tile thickness, mastic, and the 5/8 special, no void, plywood I added to the sub-floor. Since I was having the cabinets custom built and had detailed drawings, I screwed solid wood strips to the floor so the bottom of the cabinet kick plates were elevated to about the height that the finished tile floor would be when I got around to installing it.
Why did I do this?
I knew from experience that someday in the future I would have to replace the dishwasher. That day occurred a couple years ago. I was able to get the old one out and the new one in without loosening or jacking up the counter top. Jacking it up would have been a real mess with the 3-90 degree corner shape and the cast iron double sink next to the dishwasher..
 
   / Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days
  • Thread Starter
#357  
Day 40

Got back from my trip and and went over to the site and snapped a bunch of pics.

Some outside shots walking around the house:

day40-1.jpg


day40-2.jpg


day40-3.jpg


day40-4.jpg


day40-5.jpg


day40-6.jpg


And some updated shots of the basement columns, which have now been replaced with 6x6s. You will notice they are all sitting on metal brackets that were attached to the floor before the posts were set in them.

day40-7.jpg


day40-8.jpg


day40-9.jpg


Some "inside shots"

day40-10.jpg


day40-11.jpg


The first 2 pieces of laminated/engineered pieces I have spotted. I believe these will span the 16' above the garage door.

day40-12.jpg


And a sample of the exterior stone veneer. I like to composition, but will likely go a little more brown and grey (less burgundy) in the final.

day40-13.jpg


Spoke to the builder and he estimate they have 2 days of work left before being ready for the trusses. They plan to back fill on Wednesday and pour support columns for the stamped concrete deck that will be outside the kitchen area.

Oh, and my roadtrip was a success! I picked up this bad boy for $1500 down in Tennessee.

h205-1.jpg


Thread about it here:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/272350-maschio-h205-too-light-duty.html
 
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   / Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days
  • Thread Starter
#358  
Ron, the basement steps will be 10" wide and there will be a nice railing. They will be working on the stairs this coming week as well I believe.

As for lighting, there will be plenty everywhere, including the stairs. I hate rooms with inadequate lighting. Trying to go as much LED as possible and use motion activated light switches in strategic places.
 
   / Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days #359  
Looking mighty good, pc! Those posts holding up basement floor are great. Looks like 6x6 ground contact pressure treated, right? Believe me, they will do the job.
 
   / Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days #360  
Ron, the basement steps will be 10" wide and there will be a nice railing. They will be working on the stairs this coming week as well I believe.
As for lighting, there will be plenty everywhere, including the stairs. I hate rooms with inadequate lighting. Trying to go as much LED as possible and use motion activated light switches in strategic places.

Pete,
I like what you brought home from your road trip...
I noticed on your thread about it that you were concerned about your rear wheels being a little wider than the tine cut.
Isn't it normal, at least on the finishing passes, to offset your 3 point a little to one side and go from the center of the plot out or if it is small, like around your mom's house to always go in one direction. Then you have no wheel marks when done.

I like your pile of growing 2 x cut-off scraps at the construction site. Don't let them burn them or toss them.
I still have some left down in a barn from 20 years ago. They are great for all kinds of things, even if nothing more than putting under an
implement or trailer jack on soft ground.
Are the trusses going to arrive on time to keep the contractor from pulling off and going to a different job?
Ron
 
 
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