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  1. #501
    Elite Member Obed's Avatar
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    Default Re: Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days

    Quote Originally Posted by Gudor View Post
    Also, I know it is a 'crude 3D model of the kitchen,' so it might be dealt with already, but I would consider the following regarding your fridge. It looks like it is tucked up right against the wall. This can cause issues for opening the door (or opening it far enough to pull out drawers/etc.).
    Pete,
    I concur that having the fridge tucked up right against the wall is something your mom won't like the first time she opens the fridge door. A friend of mine's fridge does the same thing in the house he built. You can't even open his fridge door 90 degrees because the hinge side of the door runs into the adjacent wall. Go open your existing fridge door and imagine if a wall was right beside the fridge and you will see what we are saying.

    If you move the fridge to the left away from the wall a foot and put a cabinet between the fridge and the wall, the issue will be fixed. Or you could move the fridge to the left and put a framed in pantry the same depth as the contertops where the fridge is currently located. Sheetrock and 2x4s tend to be less expensive than cabinets and countertops. We put a pantry beside our fridge and love it.

    Obed

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    John Deere 4210 (28 HP) FEL, BH, 6' Box Blade, Loader Forks

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  2. #502
    Veteran Member pclausen's Avatar
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    Default Re: Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days

    Quote Originally Posted by Gudor View Post
    In the wall corner cabinet, there appears to be some sort of drawer/pullout on under the door - what is it?
    Good question. I had not noticed that. I suspect just some weird default in the rendering program the builder used. I'll be sure to ask him however.

    I don't know about others...but I love counter-top-depth refrigerators. They have their cons - more $$ (at least they used to be), less space (inside fridge), and less models to choose from...but I love how it keeps the fridge from 'intruding' into the kitchen space. Plus, it looks like you will have a walk-way in front of your fridge, and the doors don't come out as far as a traditional model, which would be nice in front of a walk-way. OR, you could achieve the same look by recessing a standard fridge into the wall behind it (kind of like some medicine cabinets in bathrooms). It can look perfect, especially if you box/frame in the fridge.
    I love counter-top-depth fridge as well. In fact, both me and mom have those in our current kitchens. But they are pricey and selection is limited, as you stated. I hadn't really given much thought to the fridge sticking out in mom's new house since it will be tucked away in a deep corner, but the door hitting the wall corner when opening is something I hadn't thought off. Recessing it and adding some trim probably makes a lot of sense. I don't think it will be a big deal with the linen closet begin it being shallow, but the utility sink might be a different story. Will discuss with the builder.

    The one concern I have with "building in" a non counter-top-depth fridge is that they do not have the compressor and cooling above the doors, so overheating might be a concern if proper ventilation is not taken into consideration.

    Lighting (both under cabinet and over cabinet) is AWESOME...very functional (at least under, especially with dark counter tops...great for young and old eyes alike)
    Yep, already planning LED under cabinet lighting. Mom has that in her current kitchen and would not want to loose that feature.

    I am attaching a couple of photos of my kitchen. Notice how you don't see the side of the fridge (counter side), and while I didn't shoot the angle very well for this, you can see the filler on the left of the fridge (hope it makes my previous explanation easier to understand). The first has my upper lights off, the second has them on...lower lights on for both shots.
    Looks good! I did almost the identical thing in my kitchen when I replaced my old fridge.
    JD 5085M w/ H260 MSL Loader, Frontier AV20G Grapple, Frontier AP13G Pallet Forks, Woods BH1050 Backhoe, Woods SG100 Stump Grinder, Woods RM990 Finish Mower, Woods RB850 3 Way Hydraulic Blade, Woods LR108-2 Rake, Maschio H205 Tiller, Bush Hog 3209 Cutter, Vermeer 906 Chipper, Valby SGR76 3pt Grapple, Shaver 601H Post Digger, Tufline 8' Disc Harrow, Vicon Vari-Spreader MK-II 400, JD 45 16-3 Bottom Plow
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  3. #503
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    Kubota B2150

    Default Re: Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days

    Quote Originally Posted by pclausen View Post
    I love counter-top-depth fridge as well. In fact, both me and mom have those in our current kitchens. But they are pricey and selection is limited, as you stated. I hadn't really given much thought to the fridge sticking out in mom's new house since it will be tucked away in a deep corner, but the door hitting the wall corner when opening is something I hadn't thought off. Recessing it and adding some trim probably makes a lot of sense. I don't think it will be a big deal with the linen closet begin it being shallow, but the utility sink might be a different story. Will discuss with the builder.

    The one concern I have with "building in" a non counter-top-depth fridge is that they do not have the compressor and cooling above the doors, so overheating might be a concern if proper ventilation is not taken into consideration.
    Definitely important to consider...possible solution: The cabinet above fridge - make it 12" deep (like the rest of the wall cabinets), that way there is a void above fridge in back. My kitchen (previous picture) has that and there is no way to notice because of the plywood 'surround/framing in' of the fridge. The only thing that I think would be necessary is that your cabinets are not going all the way to your ceilings (so the air can circulate).

    A nice benefit is the ability to easily run power on top of your cabinets when you find you need it - example, I did my remodel a couple of years ago and after moving in found that I could use a 'range extender' for my wireless devices. I didn't want to see it, so I just slide the fridge out, ran a short extension cord up on top of my cabinets (behind the above the fridge cabinet) and plugged in my extender...x-mas lights, etc.

  4. #504
    Super Star Member Diamondpilot's Avatar
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    Jinma 254/284 Ford 861 Powermaster at work

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by murphy1244 View Post
    Why do people get these refrigerators that can sleep 6 in? I use a smaller side by side with a small chest freezer elsewhere.
    A bunch of teenagers. Lol

    Chris

  5. #505
    Elite Member sodamo's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by pclausen View Post

    The one concern I have with "building in" a non counter-top-depth fridge is that they do not have the compressor and cooling above the doors, so overheating might be a concern if proper ventilation is not taken into consideration.
    If backing up to a closet consider installing grill/vents top and bottom at back of closet. Could even make the bottom one as access to back of fridge for cleaning/servicing.

    David Sent from my iPad using TractorByNet
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  6. #506
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    Default Re: Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days

    Pete,
    Since everyone else is putting in their druthers about the kitchen I might as well throw mine in before the wiring is pulled.

    You definitely need a trim piece along the right side of the fridge between it and the wall so the right hand door will open 90 degrees.
    Doesn't need to be very wide. The dimensions given with the fridge tells you. If you set it back in flush, watch out for the left door being able to open 90 degrees. Those doors are thick because of ice maker and shelves. Check the way the hinges swivel the door. If the front remains even with the side wall of the fridge at 90 degrees you won't need much side clearance.

    I would move the cook top to beside the fridge. Where it is now in your plan may require a back splash and could even require one on the left end. Pot and skillet handles could get hooked by clothing on the way by and create a hazard. With the counter top range next to the fridge you can have a microwave with vent or just a vent.

    The 10' 8" you have might be a little tight to do what I did here but if you move the oven or flip it's location with the desk you probably could still get 3 foot isles.
    My wife says the kitchen I designed for here is the best she could ever have and still loves it after 20 years of use.
    You can see the way I modified your plan that I put a center bar running parallel to the sink wall. We have the cabinets where you presently have your range top with panel doors on both sides. That section of counter then is a great place to put stuff either to or from your mom's breakfast room table. Some folks just use doors on the kitchen side and stained plywood on the table side but it looks much better if you have working or even fastened in place doors on the table side. The lazy susan you have in the corner next to the present range top can be eliminated. A drawer with a vertical tray/cookie sheet cabinet under it to the left of the sink. On the breakfast table side there would be another door there to shelves using the space more efficiently than a llazy susan.. The bar that I show in black going back toward your fridge wall
    has stools under it and that, truthfully, is where we eat 90% of the time.
    Some folks leave an opening between the outside wall cabinets and a center bar to get to the table but that is truly a waste of valuable cabinet space. You will never find a woman that complains of having too many cabinets or too much counter space in a kitchen..

    Just a thought. You know how my ideas cost you money

  7. #507
    Veteran Member pclausen's Avatar
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    Default Re: Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days

    Day 51

    Trusses finally arrived!





    Outer wall completed for the stairs and ready to be poured



    Blocking installed in all exterior walls



    Windows in garage finally cut out



    So they will have the full crew onsite in the morning to set the gables and the rest of the trusses. Should be done by Friday.
    Last edited by pclausen; 03-13-2013 at 09:00 PM.
    JD 5085M w/ H260 MSL Loader, Frontier AV20G Grapple, Frontier AP13G Pallet Forks, Woods BH1050 Backhoe, Woods SG100 Stump Grinder, Woods RM990 Finish Mower, Woods RB850 3 Way Hydraulic Blade, Woods LR108-2 Rake, Maschio H205 Tiller, Bush Hog 3209 Cutter, Vermeer 906 Chipper, Valby SGR76 3pt Grapple, Shaver 601H Post Digger, Tufline 8' Disc Harrow, Vicon Vari-Spreader MK-II 400, JD 45 16-3 Bottom Plow
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  8. #508
    Veteran Member s219's Avatar
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    Default Re: Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days

    So what is the blocking for? In our house, they put blocking halfway up on all the interior walls on the first floor, but nowhere else. Never did remember to ask the builder what that was about.

  9. #509
    Veteran Member wmonroe's Avatar
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    Where will the opening to the basement be at the bottom of the stairs? Straight toe to the right?
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  10. #510
    Veteran Member pclausen's Avatar
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    Default Re: Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days

    Quote Originally Posted by s219 View Post
    So what is the blocking for? In our house, they put blocking halfway up on all the interior walls on the first floor, but nowhere else. Never did remember to ask the builder what that was about.
    I believe it is fire blocking to prevent flames from reaching the ceiling cavities.
    JD 5085M w/ H260 MSL Loader, Frontier AV20G Grapple, Frontier AP13G Pallet Forks, Woods BH1050 Backhoe, Woods SG100 Stump Grinder, Woods RM990 Finish Mower, Woods RB850 3 Way Hydraulic Blade, Woods LR108-2 Rake, Maschio H205 Tiller, Bush Hog 3209 Cutter, Vermeer 906 Chipper, Valby SGR76 3pt Grapple, Shaver 601H Post Digger, Tufline 8' Disc Harrow, Vicon Vari-Spreader MK-II 400, JD 45 16-3 Bottom Plow
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