Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days

[Sparks45]

Pete,


I'm always just aware of little things since they can often be significant.
I noticed right away a difference in numbers on the top row of your shingle bundles.

Ron

That looks like production info to me. 34412 being the Julian date (day 344 of year 12) which puts it about 9 or 10 December 2012. 20:02 & 20:03 would be the hour. But I don't know for sure. If there's any doubt, I'd contact the manufacturer and ask them what the digits signify. Just my 2 cents, and it's worth what you paid :confused3:
I really appreciate the comprehensive documentation of the build and I'm taking lots of notes. We have a meeting with our GC this Saturday and I now have more questions to ask of him!
Charlie

 

[architect]

PEX is best, go from a manifold to each fixture, easy to work on a fixture without turning off entire house.
Also good with instantaneous water heater. And if you lose power, PEX has the ability to swell / freeze without breaking, within reason.

 

[wmonroe]

Thanks guys. I have printed out all this great discussing about insulation and will discuss with builder.

Pic from this morning when I left for work. Singles and all doors and windows are supposed to be done by the end of today!

Beautiful view you have there! I be it is impressive when the leaves are changing in Fall.

 

[pclausen]

It will be PEX. Here is my plumbing toolbox.

 

[mkane09]

This is going to be one beautiful little house. Pete, does your mom see it every day? Is she getting excited?

MK160

 

[mjncad]

Day 58

Pete:

I see the "wet wall" for the washer/dryer appears to be made of 2x4's. If so, how will the dryer vent be run?

The clown who built our place ran the dryer vent up through the attic, and our "wet wall" is built with a 2x4 frame. He had to squash the vent pipe into an oval to get through the top plate.

In a perfect world, I'd build "wet walls" for residences out of 2x6's.

 

[pacerron]

Pete:

I see the "wet wall" for the washer/dryer appears to be made of 2x4's. If so, how will the dryer vent be run?

The clown who built our place ran the dryer vent up through the attic, and our "wet wall" is built with a 2x4 frame. He had to squash the vent pipe into an oval to get through the top plate.

In a perfect world, I'd build "wet walls" for residences out of 2x6's.

mjncad,
Since there is an outside wall just to the right of the dryer, I suspect the vent will be run out that wall.
It will be handy there for cleaning lint out the tube and bird flapper.

Dryer vent fires are one of the leading causes of house fires. How long has it been since you've run a pipe brush
down through yours from the roof and taken it apart at the bottom to vac out the lint?
Ron

 

[dave1949]

I would put the dryer vent through the exterior wall on the right in the picture, if it is one. Dryer vents should be short and easy to clean the lint out of. I hate the way dryer vents exit dryers. Got to be a better way.

 

[dave1949]

mjncad,
Since there is an outside wall just to the right of the dryer, I suspect the vent will be run out that wall.
It will be handy there for cleaning lint out the tube and bird flapper.

Dryer vent fires are one of the leading causes of house fires. How long has it been since you've run a pipe brush
down through yours from the roof and taken it apart at the bottom to vac out the lint?
Ron

:dance1:

 

[pacerron]

Pete,
Looks like they got a lot done yesterday...
Glad to see you got the door in the back of the garage. That's the best location, in case there are ever 2 cars in the garage, and it will open onto the concrete patio, as well.
You mentioned earlier preferring an iron railing along the stairwell rather than a half wall that the contractor wants to do.
If you go the custom railing route have your blacksmith shop make a matching gate to go across the top of the stairs to protect mom from falling into the stairwell if she ever has sun blindness or trips while coming in the back door.
If you get the post positions figured out before the garage floor is poured, your iron works can give you some tubing to put in the concrete before it sets up for the posts to slip down into. You could even use scraps from the plumbers drain lines. If the posts will be square or rectangular just be sure to measure across the diagonal so the tube hole is big enough. They will make the posts about a foot extra in length to fit the sockets in the floor and you will have a very rigid rail.

One more comment on the vaulted ceiling... Since your trusses are made so that your sloped ceiling is a considerable distance from the roof decking, rather than just the 12" rafter space described by others; there is plenty of room for the Owens Corning special R-38 bats that Owens wants you to use and a good air space above for soffit to ridge vent airflow. This is covered in detail, even video, on their roofing and insulation sites.

Neat shot you took yesterday on the way to work. By the location of the fir trees in the farmers field, I was able to plot your exact location on the road when you took the picture from space.
Snow on the ground here this A.M. and the pond is starting to freeze again.
Have a good day,
Ron