Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days

[pclausen]

Our place was built in late 1999, and has insulation contact rated cans from that era with blown-in insulation in the ceiling space covering the cans. Since we went to CFL bulbs in the kitchen, the warm up time before they hit full brightness in the winter is significantly noticeable. So in spite of having attic insulation, there is still enough cold air reaching the CFL's to affect their performance when first switched on.

Good point. Mom's is having that same issue in her current kitchen and hallways, which we converted to CFL's a year or two ago. My kitchen is the same. Will definitely get fully sealed cans in mom's new house (even though LEDs don't have that issue with not hitting full brightness immediately).

I bet her energy bill will be cut at least in half compared to her current 3600 sq. ft. built in 1986.

Btw, this is the heat pump we're going with: (same as Trane XL15i)

Gold XI Heat Pump - Heat Pumps - Heritage® 15 Heat Pump -American Standard Air Heating and Air Conditioning

And the air handler: (same as Trane Hyperion XL)

Platinum XV Air Handler - Air Handlers - 4TEE Variable-Speed Air Handler - American Standard Air Heating and Air Conditioning

And air filtration unit:

Whole Home Air Filtration | Get AccuClean Air Filtration System | American Standard

The reason we're going with the American Standard branding is that the builder has access to that model line, but not the Trane one. Go figure.

Also, I picked the XL15i as opposed to the XL16i (2 stage heat pump) after doing a lot of reading over on the hvac-talk forum. They rate the Trane's in the following order: XL20i, XL15i, XL15, XL16i. While the XL16i is dual stage, the first stage uses between 70-80% of the energy of the 2nd stage. You have to step up to the XL20i, which has 2 compressors, to realize stage 1 only using 50% of the energy of stage 2.

Given that the size of the units in mom's house are 2.5ton / 30,000 BTU and rated at 16.5 SEER, the roi just wasn't there to step up to the XL20i @ 20 SEER. The air handler will have 2 stage back-up heat (5kw + 5kw).

I'm going to pick up a wifi thermostat to control the system. Looking at the 2nd generation Nest and others. I need to make sure it will work correctly with the variable speed blower in the air handler.

 

[hr3]

Thanks Thomas. Excellent advice and it makes a lot of sense as hot air will want to rise as we all know. I'll be sure to pick fully sealed, low heat generating cans.

Any recommendations for under cabinet LED lights? I spoke to the electrician about it, and he will wire in a single feed, so the plan is to get the kind that you can string together.

Your better off putting a string in from each group of cabinets to the basement,, You can only join together so many of the led lights on one driver and it's kind of hard to jump across areas like the sink... You also want to decide on dimmable or not before you buy...

As for the led recessed We use the Halo brand with Calf. rating,, "airtight" then put in the retro led trim and bulb,, Later when you have to replace one it's much easier and cheaper,,

 

[pclausen]

Your better off putting a string in from each group of cabinets to the basement,, You can only join together so many of the led lights on one driver and it's kind of hard to jump across areas like the sink... You also want to decide on dimmable or not before you buy...

Thanks hr. In this kitchen, there will only be a single L shaped section of wall cabinets. I'll meassure the length to make sure that can be accomodated with a single string. I'm meeting the electrician this morning.

As for the led recessed We use the Halo brand with Calf. rating,, "airtight" then put in the retro led trim and bulb,, Later when you have to replace one it's much easier and cheaper,,

Thanks, appreciate the advice. I'll look into into the Halo models you suggested. Yes, it seems that replacing a single bulb would be much easier than doing 9 individual small ones.

So did you go with ones of these?

http://www.lowes.com/pd_60010-337-H..._avg_rating|1&facetInfo=Halo|New construction

http://www.lowes.com/pd_60607-337-H..._avg_rating|1&facetInfo=Halo|New construction

This one is for CFL bulbs, but maybe well suited for LED as well?

http://www.lowes.com/pd_157188-337-..._avg_rating|1&facetInfo=Halo|New construction

And here is a Halo unit specifically for LEDs that is airtight and relatively inexpensive:

http://www.lowes.com/pd_157188-337-..._avg_rating|1&facetInfo=Halo|New construction

 

[tommu56]

Look at LED tape lights for under counter

http://www.amazon.com/Lighting-EVER-Flexible-Waterproof-Ultimate/dp/B0085UPTJO/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1364022820&sr=8-5&keywords=led+strip+warm

 

[EddieWalker]

Love all the pictures and the attention to detail your contractor is putting into the building of your house. I'm sure that it will be done, but I'm always nervous when I see joists without hangers. Fine Home Building also had a great article about decks and why they fail. Other then a properly attached and supported ledger board with joist hangers if attaching the joists to the sides of the boards instead of resting them on top, which is preferred. They said that the joists must be on top of the posts. You should notch the posts and have solid wood under each joist. Bolts, regardless of size or number are not as good because they tendency of the wood to split over time. Bolts should still be used with a notched post.

On a personal note, I never use nails on a deck or anything exposed to the weather. Screws cost a little bit more, take longer to install, but will never come back out like nails will. If they insist on using nails, do not fall for the story about ring shanks not coming out. They do, it just takes them a little longer then smooth nails. What really drives me crazy is how small the ring shanks are. Bigger is better with fasteners. I've never had a client complain about what I spend on screws, but most of them hire me because they have already seen what nails and cheaper materials end up doing.

As for compacting the rock with a plate compactor, it's mostly for show when somebody does this. A plate compactor is great for things like walkways and pads, but not for a fill. It does make the rock look smoother, which is nice for sitting things on top of it, like a form to pour a pad, but that's about it. Running a plate compactor over the garage area is just an empty feel good measure that will cost money, make somebody think they are getting something they want, but won't do anything to make the base any stronger. That should have been done before the rock went it, and then in lifts with a jumping jack.

Eddie

 

[EddieWalker]

Love all the pictures and the attention to detail your contractor is putting into the building of your house. I'm sure that it will be done, but I'm always nervous when I see joists without hangers. Fine Home Building also had a great article about decks and why they fail. Other then a properly attached and supported ledger board with joist hangers if attaching the joists to the sides of the boards instead of resting them on top, which is preferred. They said that the joists must be on top of the posts. You should notch the posts and have solid wood under each joist. Bolts, regardless of size or number are not as good because they tendency of the wood to split over time. Bolts should still be used with a notched post.

On a personal note, I never use nails on a deck or anything exposed to the weather. Screws cost a little bit more, take longer to install, but will never come back out like nails will. If they insist on using nails, do not fall for the story about ring shanks not coming out. They do, it just takes them a little longer then smooth nails. What really drives me crazy is how small the ring shanks are. Bigger is better with fasteners. I've never had a client complain about what I spend on screws, but most of them hire me because they have already seen what nails and cheaper materials end up doing.

As for compacting the rock with a plate compactor, it's mostly for show when somebody does this. A plate compactor is great for things like walkways and pads, but not for a fill. It does make the rock look smoother, which is nice for sitting things on top of it, like a form to pour a pad, but that's about it. Running a plate compactor over the garage area is just an empty feel good measure that will cost money, make somebody think they are getting something they want, but won't do anything to make the base any stronger. That should have been done before the rock went it, and then in lifts with a jumping jack.

Eddie

 

[hr3]

I use the Halo H7icat that way when the next great light bulb comes along they will fit in it like the new leds do. Well maybe. The next light source I'm thinking you won't need light fixtures,,

Ooo and if you do get the Halo make sure the electrician puts the foam sealing ring on,, I've seen a lot of guys throw them out,,

On another note does your transfer switch have the load shedding feature, ,I saw that you pumps had 2 - 5kw heat strips in them,,

 

[hr3]

I use the Halo H7icat that way when the next great light bulb comes along they will fit in it like the new leds do. Well maybe. The next light source I'm thinking you won't need light fixtures,,

Ooo and if you do get the Halo make sure the electrician puts the foam sealing ring on,, I've seen a lot of guys throw them out,,

On another note does your transfer switch have the load shedding feature, ,I saw that you pumps had 2 - 5kw heat strips in them,,

 

[MacLawn]

Eddie got it right! Rock and screws! Do not use ring shank nails! One day, they WILL have to be removed, and you (or someone) will loathe the day ring shanks were used! Ask how i know...

 

[FairfaxStu]

Look at LED tape lights for under counter

Amazon.com: Lighting EVER Flexible LED Strips, Warm White, LED Ribbon Light, Waterproof, Ultimate DIY Lighting, Pack of 16.4ft/5m: Home & Kitchen

View attachment 309621

These are really inexpensive and seem like a good option. I would like to do something at my house. What I do not understand is the part about the optional lighting controller. Seems to me that would be mandatory to actually get power to the little suckers. Am I missing something?
-Stu