Re: Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days

**sixdogs** · 03-25-2013, 09:07 AM

We have an attached two car garage on our house built 12 years ago. It has 2 x 4 exterior walls and we insulated it with fiberglass batting and put up sheetrock. It was really more of a "weather lock" to prevent opening doors to the outside. Anyway, it has no heat source but pulls enough from the two sides that are against the house to make it pretty comfortable to work in as long as it's not bitterly cold outside. While I thought I would need some heat, it's not uncomfortable to work in a place that's a little on the cool side.

**Gary Fowler** · 03-25-2013, 12:19 PM

Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days-gary-house-030-3_18_10-jpg

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Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days-img_1213-jpg

Originally Posted by pclausen

Excellent suggestion! I discussed with plumber today, and he will check w/ builder if that would be considdered an extra charge or not. If so and the amount is small, I'll let then do it, otherwise, I'll do it myself. Like you said, it is cheap and easy to do.

All my plumbing is copper and insulated and underground. I have a small pump located at the hot water tank that circulates the hot water from a header to all locations so it is instantly hot, well almost, it has to run from the header to the faucet about 4 feet normally. I would for sure insulate the lines with closed cell foam (cheap) and have the plumber run a recirc line for all the hot water ( a little added cost but not too much at this point) and add a recirc pump. Water costs more than the electricity to run the little pump when you have to run a couple gallons to get it hot before use every time and water costs are rising everywhere you have city water supply.

**MacLawn** · 03-25-2013, 12:32 PM

Again, yep, insulate ALL your water pipes! I also second sealing so mice can't get in - it can be done, I also did that to my house - no crits inside, except me hound of course.

**pacerron** · 03-25-2013, 01:13 PM

Pete,
Haven't seen any tub or shower bases in the bathrooms to date. Are they both going to be custom made in place?
Ron

**pclausen** · 03-25-2013, 01:56 PM

Originally Posted by MacLawn

Again, yep, insulate ALL your water pipes! I also second sealing so mice can't get in - it can be done, I also did that to my house - no crits inside, except me hound of course.

The water pipes will be insulated, and I'll make sure all the holes are sealed as well. Thanks!

**pclausen** · 03-25-2013, 02:01 PM

Originally Posted by pacerron

Pete, Haven't seen any tub or shower bases in the bathrooms to date. Are they both going to be custom made in place?

They are on order. Both are reinforced so that handles can be added if/when necessary. They are going to be heavy. They are expected next week.

Skylights will be 22" wide by something like 36" long. I'll do some looking around at ones that are highly rated and compare to that the builder is suggesting. He will insulate the interior walls in the sun room, bathroom and wall between kitchen and mudroom. He will also make sure the bath fans are vented to the outside through rigid pipes with a slight drop towards the outside.

**pclausen** · 03-25-2013, 03:21 PM

Anyone have any experience with this type of skylight?

Shop VELUX 47-1/4-in x 22-3/8-in x 3-3/8-in Tempered Skylight at Lowes.com

The few reviews on Lowe's website seem very positive.

**pclausen** · 03-25-2013, 03:36 PM

Thinking about these for the basement and garage:

Shop Metalux 48-in Fluorescent Troffer at Lowes.com

Looks decent. Any reason not to go with those?

**pacerron** · 03-25-2013, 05:57 PM

Originally Posted by pclausen

Thinking about these for the basement and garage:

Shop Metalux 48-in Fluorescent Troffer at Lowes.com

Looks decent. Any reason not to go with those?

Pete,
The skylights look good as long as you use their flashing kit and the contractor follows the instructions as to cutout size and installation.

Out in the garage you might want to get fluorescent fixtures with ballast for cold weather starting just to be sure they will come on and be full brightness on cold winter days/nights.

Back to the deck a moment.
Do you have the plan for final placement of the posts?
It looks to me, from the way they have framed it that "set-back" posts attached to a beam or bolted to two joist running across under the present frame would be the way to go. You certainly don't want any posts in front of the windows or doors.
A lot of folks, including your house, have the posts clear out next to the rim joist and/or attached to the back of it, which is fine, but having the posts set back a foot or two ( in accordance with any codes based on the framing size ) looks more classy, and in this case would be stronger. IN MY HUMBLE OPINION..
Ron

**dave1949** · 03-25-2013, 06:28 PM

Pete,

I had 3 Velux skylight windows that must have been very similar to those you linked, although mine were in 1995 and who knows where quality goes over time. They cranked open. I had Anderson casement windows, the Velux color and frame blended very well.

I only lived with them for 11 years, but in that time I had absolutely no issues. They were on a 6/12 south-facing shingle roof. So, they took a sun beating.

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