Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days

[Woody65]

BuilderML,


I agree with your method totally. I was not going to go into that great a detail on how to do it because if you are not in the trade you will have no idea what was being explained. But thank you for taking the time to do it. I too, when building new use a 1x3 on top of the 1x6 fascia to at the roof edge to give the trim an extra bend. When doing a siding job and the roof is not being done, some homes do not have the extra 1x3 on the fascia so a flat Z has to be done because if you added the 1x3 it would extend past the existing roofing ( I know you know this, explained for everyone else). Again, agree with the ice shield method, which we do also as you explained.


Pacaroon,

I realize that it is the fascia trim and not the drip edge that is rippling. The two act together to seal the fascia. But when one of the pieces reacts to the shrinking and the other doesn't the ripples cause a breach in the seal. No water will get in as the fascia trim is a few inches up behind the drip edge. But insects and bees can set up shop in those voids. The method I use to attach my trim is similar to the way BuilderML described and I don't have rippling issues.

 

[Robert_in_NY]

BuilderML,

I agree with your method totally. I was not going to go into that great a detail on how to do it because if you are not in the trade you will have no idea what was being explained. But thank you for taking the time to do it. I too, when building new use a 1x3 on top of the 1x6 fascia to at the roof edge to give the trim an extra bend. When doing a siding job and the roof is not being done, some homes do not have the extra 1x3 on the fascia so a flat Z has to be done because if you added the 1x3 it would extend past the existing roofing ( I know you know this, explained for everyone else). Again, agree with the ice shield method, which we do also as you explained.

Pacaroon,

I realize that it is the fascia trim and not the drip edge that is rippling. The two act together to seal the fascia. But when one of the pieces reacts to the shrinking and the other doesn't the ripples cause a breach in the seal. No water will get in as the fascia trim is a few inches up behind the drip edge. But insects and bees can set up shop in those voids. The method I use to attach my trim is similar to the way BuilderML described and I don't have rippling issues.

There is an item called a brake buddy that puts creases into otherwise flat fascia. It makes it a lot easier when on a job and needing to wrap a 10" fascia or beam without the oil canning effect. I'm on my phone now but I'll link it later if anyone is interested.

 

[FairfaxStu]

Peter:

Wow! Your contractor has an amazing concrete sub. Between the garage and the basement, I have never seen such shiny and perfect concrete. You may want to consider painting it like you did in your garage because it will be super slippery when wet.

Also, where do you stand on the fireplace insert? I know you all but shot down a gas insert, but I am still going to push it. Have you taken your mom to a dealer so that she can see the options in person?
-Stu

 

[MacLawn]

If you do go with a gas fireplace - you MUST check out the Valor!

 

[pclausen]

Stu, when you walk down the stairs, the door into the basement is to the right. Once they bring out the proper saw, they will cut out that metal beam that is still present. There will be a 3' door installed at the bottom into the basement area.

The fireplace will be a Heat & Glo 36" Energy Master wood fireplace with a propane log starter.

Yeah, that concrete sub does great work! I bet the stamped concrete walk ways and patio will look sharp as well!

 

[jinman]

Pete, your garage is so shiny it looks like they poured liquid epoxy on top of the concrete. I don't think I've ever seen a trowel finish that shiny.:thumbsup:

 

[pacerron]

Pete, your garage is so shiny it looks like they poured liquid epoxy on top of the concrete. I don't think I've ever seen a trowel finish that shiny.:thumbsup:

Might be slick when wet from water dripping off the car. For your mom's safety, if it is, a rubber mat may be needed between the car door and the step up to the mudroom.

 

[SPIKER]

Might be slick when wet from water dripping off the car. For your mom's safety, if it is, a rubber mat may be needed between the car door and the step up to the mudroom.

Thinking some thing similar, as I have SLICK floor with additive stuff in my stain/sealer. it makes sweeping hard as the sand stuff grabs the dirt & shoes/feet alike. Using runner mats or carpet runners is easy cheap and they can be replaced often if you like or run a shop vac over them.

Slipping on the wet floor or even mostly dry floor is real easy on my surface when wet it is almost unable to walk on it in anything but sharpened golf shoes. For fun I was sliding 20' with 2 or 3 quick steps on good tennis shoes starting outside on the dry floor and running in the garage door opening.

I have yet to break my @$$ on it but have really came close 4 or 5 times walking in with wet shoes/boots.
Mark

 

[wmonroe]

Stu, when you walk down the stairs, the door into the basement is to the right. Once they bring out the proper saw, they will cut out that metal beam that is still present. There will be a 3' door installed at the bottom into the basement area.

The fireplace will be a Heat & Glo 36" Energy Master wood fireplace with a propane log starter.

Yeah, that concrete sub does great work! I bet the stamped concrete walk ways and patio will look sharp as well!

Good choice getting the log lighter, it is extremely convenient and allows gas logs to be added easily any time.

 

[FairfaxStu]

I agree with what both Ron and Spiker have said. It is gonna be a slick surface with either water or snow on it. Personally, I like what you did in your own garage and shop with that [super expensive] paint. The beauty of the paint over a mat, is that it protects the concrete from oil stains - as you well know. Let us know what you decide.
-Stu