Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days

   / Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days #941  
Pete, there are drop-down sunshades for windows that would work great for that opening between the wall and overhang if needed for sun shading. Of course, your mom may want to put plants on top of the wall instead of any screen.Here's a link to the Sunsetter model that is remote controlled. We have one of their awnings over our deck and it has worked perfectly for four years with the fabric holding up well and the motorized control is excellent.
 
   / Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days #942  
The rendering is not quite right because the wall is not straight accross. It offsets toward the house on the left side. See the second picture that Peter posted on yesterday's update. Also, I was wondering what it would look like with a pair of motion activated lights one per side just to the left and right of the entrance to the courtyard. I think I would do it but maybe it is not what Peter's Mom likes.
-Stu


Often, motion sensing lights are mounted under the eave box on the extended rake on each side of the garage. Care must be taken that they don't blind folks getting out of cars at the apron or walking into the garden. There are many styles available, other than spotlights today, that do a nice job.
I owned a home once that had a raised brick planter along the front under multiple picture windows next to the front door.
The builder had spaced can lights in the soffit all along the front above the planter. It looked pretty spiffy at night with the lights shining down on the plants and flowers. We had toggle switch control from inside the house.
Any additional perimeter or security lighting, cameras, etc. should be addressed now before the insulation and drywall goes up.
It can be done later with snakes but is much easier now even if only an unhooked up wire is put in from the garage and from the entrance door area switch box to the soffit space.
Any additional wiring on the back deck overhang should certainly be addressed now because of the limited/nil space above the sloping knotty pine ceiling to drill wire holes through the top plate.
I would be afraid that the skeleton of BuilderBLM would still be wedged between the under roof ceiling truss space and the plastic above the knotty pine from trying to reach down to the soffit end to spray 1 inch of foam evenly on top of the plastic after the knotty pine was installed, instead of putting up plasterboard behind the knotty pine.:mur::stirthepot::D
 
   / Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days #943  
Jay,
That's a good rendering.

Thanks Ron, it's amazing what some software can do, imagine it in the hands of someone who knows how to use it. :laughing:


The rendering is not quite right because the wall is not straight accross. It offsets toward the house on the left side. See the second picture that Peter posted on yesterday's update.
-Stu

Yeah, there's a lot that won't be quite right Stu, but I warned you ahead of time. :laughing:

I may have taken a couple of liberties. :D

Hopefully the house is a bit more detailed than this (the quickie cad build I did to get the renders I posted).

Glassov1_zps79ae4b00.jpg


If not, Pete's mom is going to kill him. :laughing:
 
   / Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days #944  
Often, motion sensing lights are mounted under the eave box on the extended rake on each side of the garage. Care must be taken that they don't blind folks getting out of cars at the apron or walking into the garden. There are many styles available, other than spotlights today, that do a nice job.

I like to have the lights at the peak of the roof and then you can have downward facing lights in the eves to provide light in that area, that way you don't blind yourself. One thought on outside lights is that rather than having everything on one switch or switches all around the house you can setup the switches with something like GE Z-wave, which makes the switches wireless. You can have a switch wherever and control all the lights at once regardless of where you are, or even from the car if you want to turn on the outside lights if you got home after dark and weren't in the garage. We do it for accent lighting and security and keep a switch by the door, in the car and by the bed. If there's a noise in the night one button turns on every security light and if we get home late we can turn on everything from the car as we pull into the drive. The switches are hardwired like regular rocker switches and work like regular switches except they can also be controlled wirelessly and programmed in groups etc.
 
   / Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days #945  
Spending more of Mom's money. ;)

RT2_zps7ed6f973.jpg


RT3_zpsa51622ff.jpg
 
   / Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days #946  
Spending more of Mom's money. ;)

RT2_zps7ed6f973.jpg


RT3_zpsa51622ff.jpg

Wow Jay..
We've been out trimming hooves and trying not to get kicked and you've been busy playing with your Wacom tablet and stylus.
Nice job.
I see you copied Peter's actual stone sample image and used it in your latest rendition.:thumbsup:
Could you replace the square post with a round tapered white column? I think the square post looks too barny.
I recall Peter's roof plan was a 5/12 pitch. Looks like yours may be the same or close.
Try removing the stone above the wall and over the transom of the garage door to give a horizontal line cut.
Then maybe put in a fake round or octagon shaped gable vent up near the ridge. Some gables particularly on steeper pitched roofs
look kind of naked without something up there. Some look too cluttered depending on the garage door style.

Everything considered, since the front of the house ( curb appeal ) means everything, and since none of this outside stuff will delay Mrs. Clausen moving in, if it is not done by 1 May 2013, as long as she has clear entrance through the garage, I would:

1.Pull the one man masonry team off the front and leave the blocks as they are until a final resolve can be made to the design. They can be taken apart easily at any time along the mortar joints without breaking.
2. Get him to work on the inside fireplace now. Sometimes they want the plasterboard up first but that can be worked around or a temporary piece of 1/2' material put in to lay against. Fireplace work always makes a mess, and with hardwood floors and tile going down soon the fireplace stonework should be done first and cleaned up.
3. Then stick him on stoning the outside chimney if a final decision hasn't been reached on the front of house/stonework design.

Peter can continue using his software to show his mom different versions of the front until they are both happy or perhaps download one of the software programs currently available to add various design points and landscaping. I notice the best HDTV version is on sale now
for $80. I don't see a trial fully workable version but some other more expensive brands do have them available.
I have not used any of them so cannot, and would not anyway, endorse any of them.
Jay, I think your renditions help in a big way in seeing various solutions. We all multitask too much anymore to really see much of anything. Our brains see it but move right on without attention to detail. How many of us really know the exact color of our wife's eyes?
Ron
 
   / Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days #947  
.
I would be afraid that the skeleton of BuilderBLM would still be wedged between the under roof ceiling truss space and the plastic above the knotty pine from trying to reach down to the soffit end to spray 1 inch of foam evenly on top of the plastic after the knotty pine was installed, instead of putting up plasterboard behind the knotty pine.:mur::stirthepot::D

Thats what makes the difference between the men and the boys, No one ever said building easy. Thats is why some portions of building are great to do and others just s.u.c.k. to do. Besides i wouldn't get stuck my subs would..:laughing:
 
   / Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days #948  
Wow Jay..
We've been out trimming hooves and trying not to get kicked and you've been busy playing with your Wacom tablet and stylus.
Nice job.
I see you copied Peter's actual stone sample image and used it in your latest rendition.:thumbsup:
Could you replace the square post with a round tapered white column? I think the square post looks too barny.
I recall Peter's roof plan was a 5/12 pitch. Looks like yours may be the same or close.
Try removing the stone above the wall and over the transom of the garage door to give a horizontal line cut.
Then maybe put in a fake round or octagon shaped gable vent up near the ridge. Some gables particularly on steeper pitched roofs
look kind of naked without something up there. Some look too cluttered depending on the garage door style.

Creating a bit of work there for me, aren't you Ron? :laughing: I'll have you know I've actually been out working in the yard quite a bit too this afternoon, all cut and bagged, thank you very much. :D

Funny you mention the wacom tablet and stylus, I've actually had one for a few years...that I've never used. Just too used to working off two computer monitors and keyboard.

This is the software I use: Chief Architect Home Design Software Premier Version It's a mid-priced (pro) cad program that really does a nice job on 3D. I've used it since 2003 (different versions, of course), but I only work with interior stuff, so this exterior stuff is like pulling teeth for me...but somewhat fun tooth-pulling, if you will.
 
   / Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days #949  
Creating a bit of work there for me, aren't you Ron? :laughing: I'll have you know I've actually been out working in the yard quite a bit too this afternoon, all cut and bagged, thank you very much. :D

Funny you mention the wacom tablet and stylus, I've actually had one for a few years...that I've never used. Just too used to working off two computer monitors and keyboard.

This is the software I use: Chief Architect Home Design Software Premier Version It's a mid-priced (pro) cad program that really does a nice job on 3D. I've used it since 2003 (different versions, of course), but I only work with interior stuff, so this exterior stuff is like pulling teeth for me...but somewhat fun tooth-pulling, if you will.

Jay,
Gratis to Peter and his mom I hope. I just looked at your software and then at your website.
Congrats! Looks like you are getting your moneys worth from the software and you have a great website.
Didn't have a chance to look at every tab yet, but the visuals you present must be very valuable in getting an exact understanding
between you and your customers before any hammering begins.
Great use of modern technology.:thumbsup:
Ron
 
   / Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days #950  
Thanks Ron, appreciate it, and it is great software...it's always nice to get a good visual on things before you pay for them. I originally got it to draw basement finishing projects, and now back to smaller carpentry projects (when my creaky elbow allows) after the economy took a nose-dive.

And yeah, there's no charge for Peter and his mom...unless mom sends apple pies to GA. :D It's been some fun practice for me on some exterior stuff.
 
 
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