Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 18 of 18
  1. #11
    Gold Member Boeing's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    451
    Location
    Botetourt, Va
    Tractor
    kubota L3010

    Default Re: Blueing a STEEL/ALUMINUM rifle.....help needed

    Thanks for the suggestions guys. I've talked to several people and no-one seems to have sugestions about cleaning the poly OFF the gun. Several have said that the receiver is NOT aluminum....I can test it with a magnet. Has anyone used this kit? Birchwood Casey« Perma Blue« Paste Gun Blue Kit Available at Bass Pro. The gun does not APPEAR to have any rust on it so I don't need to use the de-rust stuff do I? Just the degreaser/cleaner then a few coats of blueing......Am I on track here?

  2. #12
    Veteran Member dusty3030's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    1,445
    Location
    Arkansas!
    Tractor
    JD 4120, 400x loader, bucket, bale spear, pallet forks, grapple

    Default

    Brownells oxphoblue.

    Hotter the parts the better it takes.
    Buff it in like shining shoes.
    YOU SHOULD TREAT EVERYONE WITH COURTESY AND RESPECT. BUT HAVE A PLAN FOR KILLING THEM........JUST IN CASE.

  3. #13
    Veteran Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    1,426
    Location
    Midwest
    Tractor
    Ford 1210 / Ford 1710

    Default Re: Blueing a STEEL/ALUMINUM rifle.....help needed

    I have refinished a few guns in the past. You always have the option of powdercoating. It is relatively cheap and a long lasting finish. I have done this on aluminum or steel. The last shotgun I did had an aluminum receiver. I paid about 20 bucks to have it powder coated. They threw it in when they were doing some other gloss black parts.

    Factory finishes on aluminum are usually black anodize. This is probably not a DIY process.

  4. #14
    New Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    13
    Location
    Northern Michigan
    Tractor
    1530 New Holland

    Default Re: Blueing a STEEL/ALUMINUM rifle.....help needed

    The 742 is steel. It's difficult to find parts for it today and was affectionately known as the "Remington Jam-O-Matic".

    I still own one (30.06) and have taken 3 dozen whitetails with it over the years . . . and have had shell casings hang up in the ejection port.

    Take the trigger, slide and wood stock off.. . . hot bluing is the way to go. I reblued my 870 12 gauge using wet sanding paper to remove scratches. Be sure to use a sanding block on the flat sides.

    You can try a superfine 1200 to 3000 grit automotive wet sanding paper or steel wool to buff off the old poly coating. Remove 100% of it and follow the hot dip method of bluing. I used a heat gun to informally warm the parts (receiver and barrel) before the blue. Mine turned out really good.

    Of course if you're looking for a 100% professional bluing job and are not confident, take it to a gunsmith.

    Good luck.
    Last edited by 55woodie; 02-15-2013 at 10:39 PM.

  5. #15
    Platinum Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    530
    Location
    KS.
    Tractor
    Case 1845C skidsteer

    Default Re: Blueing a STEEL/ALUMINUM rifle.....help needed

    Quote Originally Posted by Boeing View Post
    Thanks for the suggestions guys. I've talked to several people and no-one seems to have sugestions about cleaning the poly OFF the gun. Several have said that the receiver is NOT aluminum....I can test it with a magnet. Has anyone used this kit? Birchwood Casey´Ż« Perma Blue´Ż« Paste Gun Blue Kit Available at Bass Pro. The gun does not APPEAR to have any rust on it so I don't need to use the de-rust stuff do I? Just the degreaser/cleaner then a few coats of blueing......Am I on track here?
    I have used the Birchwood Casey. It is very easy to use but not very durable. Because of it's ease of use you can touch up wear spots easy also. Probably the best way to clean the present finish is with the wet sandpaper as suggested by another post. Possibly powder coat the aluminum trigger assembly??

  6. #16
    Gold Member Boeing's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    451
    Location
    Botetourt, Va
    Tractor
    kubota L3010

    Default Re: Blueing a STEEL/ALUMINUM rifle.....help needed

    Thanks for the input guys, I cleaned the poly off the second magazine today. Comes off fairly easily with Acetone (wifes finger-nail polish remover) The FFL still has the gun since I have to wait 7 (or 10) days to keep the government happy. Funny how it took 15 days to order and get it shipped to my FFL, but then I have to wait ANOTHER 7-10 days to make sure that I'm not a psycho....
    Back to the topic, after the poly is off it leaves a dull, thin blue or bare metal.....There shouldn't be a need to sand anything should there? Someone mentioned a "HOT blue"....is a heat gun enough heat for that? I was thinking of a cold blue and just re blue it every 3rd year or so.... ideas?

  7. #17
    Silver Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    106
    Location
    south carolina
    Tractor
    nh 3930, ford 1910, farmall super a, allis chamlers b

    Default Re: Blueing a STEEL/ALUMINUM rifle.....help needed

    The quick and cheap way would be to wet sand the poly off as already mentioned, then spray the metal parts with a few coats of spray paint, I would first do a function test to make sure it doesn't jam and shoots decent groups, there is no use making a gun pretty if it doesn't shoot good or function properly.

  8. #18
    New Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    13
    Location
    Northern Michigan
    Tractor
    1530 New Holland

    Default Re: Blueing a STEEL/ALUMINUM rifle.....help needed

    Take the wet sand approach and using a flat block, wrap the 1500 grit around the block and wet sand 5 strokes . . in one direction. Look at the results and judge for yourself. Does it need 5 more, 10 more etc. then the 3000 grit for a smooth clean metal finish. The letters and logo stampings will not be affected by the fine grit but the poly/bluing and any surface scratches will begin to disappear. Hand sand the curved surfaces with just your finger and the wet sandpaper. Bluing kits will allow cold finished but I prefer a heated method. Search on You Tube for a few "How To" videos on bluing a gun and it will give you more ideas. You can mess up on the sanding , ie circular motions, zig-zags etc.....but the bluing process is pretty easy and the results get better the more coats you apply to the metal. Good luck with your project.

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Similar Threads

  1. Steel vs. aluminum cost
    By JDgreen227 in forum Trailers & Transportation
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 03-01-2012, 10:44 AM
  2. Steel vs. Aluminum Stock Trailer
    By twabscs in forum Trailers & Transportation
    Replies: 11
    Last Post: 12-14-2007, 05:26 AM
  3. Trailer choice: steel or aluminum
    By jayhaitch in forum Trailers & Transportation
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 08-26-2006, 09:29 PM
  4. Aluminum vs Steel sizing
    By hard_yakka01 in forum Build-It Yourself
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 12-12-2004, 02:00 AM
  5. Aluminum vs Steel Trailers
    By LBrown59 in forum Owning/Operating
    Replies: 15
    Last Post: 11-01-2004, 09:34 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
© 2014 TractorByNet.com. TractorByNet is a registered trademark of IMC Digital Universe, Inc. Other trademarks on this page are the property of their respective owners.