How can I run a sewer line trench under a mobile home?

[Tractor Seabee]

I did this type stuff when I was young, no way now, but: Stay with 4" ABS pipe in 20' lengths that way you only have the final connection to make under the MH. Its friction factor is far better than concrete or Cast Iron pipe and much easier to handle and keep straight. You start pushing concrete pipe around and it will look like a snake and the bells make it a bear to bed in tight spots. If it isn't gasketed you then have to seal the joints which requires solid bedding to stay intact. Start digging the trench say 10 feet away from the side of the MH, go 2' wide so you have room to work. You need to be at least 18" deep to get below any winter frost line. then just keep digging ahead till you get to the connection point. You will be laying down soon after but it works even if slow. Grade the pipe at min 1/4" foot. Going that deep will prevent frost heaving which is probably what happened before. If the low spot is crossed and the soil is saturated with water, winter freeze will cause your problem all over again. If so put about 4" of pea gravel under and over the pipe. It is self compacting so fill to the top. Try to drain the trench down stream if you can and the water will drain from under the MH and the pipe. Hope you Septic tank is deep enough to grade into it, if not, it then is pump time.

I know what you mean on regulation. If I applied for a permit for every thing I do , as required, I would never get to do anything. So, I just do it. I am out in the country so surveillance is pretty minimal so we get by with a lot. All the neighbors feel the same so no whistle blowers.

 

[timswi]

Dear Sir: Just a thought? Whatever method you employ, please be sure to have a permit and inspection done. I say this because the pipe has to have a gradient level in order for the waste to reach the septic tank. The inspector will check to see if all fittings are secure and that the correct scheldue PVC pipe is used. He will also check with a level to see if the PVC pipe meets the criteria to allow for the correct flow of the waste material. Rest assured that this will save you a lot of grief in the Future. The cost of a permit and inspection is miniscule compared to doing it incorrectly. Doing it incorrectly, may even jeopardize your homeowners insurance. Just a thought. Thanks for listening.

True...Check your local codes first...When I did mine here it was 1/4" over 3' horizontal...You dont want too much or too little drop...

 

[timswi]

I did this type stuff when I was young, no way now, but: Stay with 4" ABS pipe in 20' lengths that way you only have the final connection to make under the MH. Its friction factor is far better than concrete or Cast Iron pipe and much easier to handle and keep straight. You start pushing concrete pipe around and it will look like a snake and the bells make it a bear to bed in tight spots. If it isn't gasketed you then have to seal the joints which requires solid bedding to stay intact. Start digging the trench say 10 feet away from the side of the MH, go 2' wide so you have room to work. You need to be at least 18" deep to get below any winter frost line. then just keep digging ahead till you get to the connection point. You will be laying down soon after but it works even if slow. Grade the pipe at min 1/4" foot. Going that deep will prevent frost heaving which is probably what happened before. If the low spot is crossed and the soil is saturated with water, winter freeze will cause your problem all over again. If so put about 4" of pea gravel under and over the pipe. It is self compacting so fill to the top. Try to drain the trench down stream if you can and the water will drain from under the MH and the pipe. Hope you Septic tank is deep enough to grade into it, if not, it then is pump time.

I know what you mean on regulation. If I applied for a permit for every thing I do , as required, I would never get to do anything. So, I just do it. I am out in the country so surveillance is pretty minimal so we get by with a lot. All the neighbors feel the same so no whistle blowers.

Good advise...The codes do differ but I also try to follow them for the region given that there is a base reason for them..1" over 4' might be the new code ...Haven't had a reason to check thankfully.

I have replaced well lines under decks that are similar to the OP's situation and it worked per my prior post.

 

[ben2go]

All good options.Unfortunately,I am doing this on a shoe string budget.The county doesn't require a permit but does state 1" per 4'.No problem there.The connection under the MH is 55 feet from the tongue end which is below grade.It's another 6 feet from the MH to the septic tank.My teenage son is long and lean and he can't get under there.That was my last resort before try something else.The pipe I'm using is 4" x 10' bell mouth PVC as suggested by the code enforcement officer.It's the only thing I could find locally.Our soil is red clay with the occasional fist size boulder thrown in for good luck.:laughing: I'm getting ready to get out there soon as the sun gets up.I'll check back in.

 

[stuckmotor]

Is the soil wet enough that you could put a 20' handle on a shovel or spade, ram it into the dirt, and drag it out?

 

[Al 2]

A company like Badger Daylighting Dig it! Hydrovac excavation, slot trenching and shoring solutions by Badger Daylighting would be able to do something like that. Trouble is, they are not in your area and a are expensive.
Al

 

[/pine]

OK just an off the wall idea...FWIW...
Don't know what the earth around there is (rocky, hard pan clay etc.)...perhaps you could possibly improvise using a mobile home anchor (similar to a PHD auger) I have seen them up to 8' long...you could possibly use a short iron pipe as a 'T' handle through the clevis end of the anchor and use it as horizontal bore...

 

[Deere Dude]

Is it possible to go in from the side which should be only a few feet and then run it along the perimeter length of the house, You would just need a couple long sweep elbows.

 

[dave1949]

I've never seen a mobile home below grade. I mean, it's not like they are rated for direct burial. :laughing:

Could you remove the soil that is in the way, level it off allowing access? The next time you have a problem, it wouldn't be so difficult to get at.

 

[oldnslo]

Get a short handled shovel and start digging. It will be slow PITA process but longer ditches have been dug by hand. I have hand dug both sewer and water lines under houses in my younger days. Biggest problem is usually getting rid of the dirt, sore knees and back.