Adding shower in barn, TILE Questions

[SPIKER]

Hi All:

Well after greasing up the house shower & having to make trips in all time I'm going to fix up a Utility/Shower/Bathroom in the barn.

I already have it walled off and it has cold water & a Sump Pump going into a small underground grinder pump back to the septic system.

Issues I have are already finished concrete floor (With Sump Crock & single thrown sewer connection in the concrete.)
I'm planning on building/framing a 3'x4' corner shower/TILE SURROUND, I was planning on NOT tiling the floor as it is concrete already. Besides Grout how do I SEAL the bottom of the walls/Tile to the concrete floor without it leaking and getting up into the stud walls? PLATES are all Treated Lumber with CUT Concrete Nails & GLUED DOWN and Standard Nail Gun Nails into untreated vertical studs been in for over a year~16months. The FLOOR has a Water Based Stain & Top Coat Clear Sealer that is somewhat slippery when wet Real Slippery so adding TILE MAY HELP. I'm using 12" Ceramic TILE & Store has several options for the Mastic-Adhesive but not sure which would be best. This shower will be a DOG Wash and ME mostly after working in barn or on car etc.

I COULD Tile the floor but wasn't planning on it & don't see the need since the floor is sealed & coated concrete with no cracks (18months old.)

ALSO 1 Wall is OSB & I was thinking to spruce it up Taping the joints with Durabond90 and Tile Tape. then Skim Coating the entire OSB Wall with the Durabond90. followed up with a coat of white paint this will be the interior wall of the barn & will hold tools on the other side of the wall.

I have the NEW Lightweight 1/2" Tile Backer Board DUROBoard not yet installed, should I use PL400 Glue under it on the Studs & OSB or just the DUROScrews? Any recommendations for best place to get the GROUT and ADHESIVE-MASTIC for the tile, I have Menards, HD and LOWES all local. The Menards Price for Version3 Tile Adhesive was almost 40 bucks a bag (a bit expensive I thought.) I'm heading out tomorrow for some DUROBond90 for the wall & would like to get the tile mastic then as well.

I'm not in a major hurry so looking for thoughts on this one. Also will be adding old washer & drier in there & HOT water (Instant on type) as I get some deals to wash Greasy Work cloths. These are all going in a 110" x 14' room in one corner of my Pole Barn.

thanks

Mark

 

[quicksandfarmer]

Grout is not waterproof.

Normally what you do with a tile shower is put down a PVC sheet that goes up the wall about a foot and then tile over that. For the walls you put roofing felt behind the tile backer board, layered to direct the water down. If you want to go simple and cheap I would recommend a precast plastic shower base.

 

[CurlyDave]

I would carry the precast plastic shower base one step further and get an entire pre-formed plastic shower stall.

Goes in fast, leakproof, and adequate for a shower/bath in a barn. Will never show up in a fashion magazine, but will more than do the job and will be the most economical solution.

P.S. For a dog wash, I would go with a bathtub elevated 24" above the floor with steps for the dog to climb up and get into the tub. Not only will this save your back, the thought of getting into a stall shower with a dog is not particularly appealing. Are you planning on doing this clothed or naked? No matter how docile the dog, at some point it will look like a melee but the dog has sharper claws and teeth...

 

[the old grind]

Grout is not waterproof.

Normally what you do with a tile shower is put down a PVC sheet that goes up the wall about a foot and then tile over that. For the walls you put roofing felt behind the tile backer board, layered to direct the water down. If you want to go simple and cheap I would recommend a precast plastic shower base.

I would carry the precast plastic shower base one step further and get an entire pre-formed plastic shower stall.

Goes in fast, leakproof, and adequate for a shower/bath in a barn. Will never show up in a fashion magazine, but will more than do the job and will be the most economical solution. ...

I'd worry that seasonal expansion might compromise the stability/integrity of what's under/behind tile with inside and outside walls connecting around it, depending on how high you go up somewhat. Leaks are a bear anywhere, anytime. Grout can be sealed, but that's an ongoing chore with often-inconsistent results, and a good freeze might worry me a bit. (Might you someday be patching-up with a calk gun?)

A full f-glass corner enclosure would be my first choice, and perhaps worth the bucks (o'all) to get one roomy enough to suit. Easy install, easy to clean(?), little to calk/seal, etc. (Just MHO) btw: are your drains/traps/vents 'proper' for all your planned fixtures/uses? Gurgling isn't so bad, ... septic gas burps aren't so good ...

 

[3v0]

I agree that a precast all in on is the way to go here because it will be easier to clean.

 

[Egon]

Plastic pull around curtain.:thumbsup:

Open concept.

 

[SPIKER]

Note: cant use the actual shower base or tub surround as there is only a crock in the floor center 3 feet from where shower is going... The concrete and radiant heat tube is in there already so can't add drain without loosing loop of heat and tearing up concrete.

The Interior Wall and Exterior walls are all pretty well connected and won't move independently very much without a tornado coming thru. and this room was/is built with storm shelter in mind. everything is nailed glued and screwed so far. The room is 2x6 on 16 centers between the poles and up thru the dual header plates. the interior wall will be OSB on both sides and the exterior walls have T1-11 on outside with multiple insulation layers. The Slab is 5~6" thick with 2" styro & radiant barrier under it. it has Fiber and Wire Mesh in it as well. the Walls have PL400 and cut nails holding them in place at bottom treated sill plates. This was done ~30 days after the pour & floor was etched with a carbide grinder to get better adhesion & top plates were glued & nailed into the 2nd floor 2x12 Yellow Pine joists. The room, wall, concrete has been done 2 yrs almost now. There is plumbing in the floor with P-Traps and the Crock was sunk into the ground and concreted into place with sump and check valve but no shower was planned at the time. it is going in as an afterthought. the 4" PVC has all proper drop and flows and is slightly separate by radian bubble wrap from being firmly attached to the slab in case there was slab movement. So far there has been no movement that I can tell so all seems good.

I'll try & get some pics this weekend.

Mark

 

[timster2]

I ran into the same problem once. Used a stall shower unit raised up on 2x4 platform made with treated lumber and treated plywood. You can plumb the drain where ever you need it to go from underneath the shower platform. The platform could be made to cover the drain pipe all the way to the installed floor drain. Use some sheet flooring glued to the plywood platform before you mount the shower stall for a finished look and it will clean up easily and will not let the water damage the plywood. For the edges some aluminum bull nose finishes off the platform and gives you a non slip edge so you dont slip off when wet. The platform will have enough weight to stay in place with minimal if any attachment to the floor so you will not have to worry about the heat.

 

[SPIKER]

I ran into the same problem once. Used a stall shower unit raised up on 2x4 platform made with treated lumber and treated plywood. You can plumb the drain where ever you need it to go from underneath the shower platform. The platform could be made to cover the drain pipe all the way to the installed floor drain. Use some sheet flooring glued to the plywood platform before you mount the shower stall for a finished look and it will clean up easily and will not let the water damage the plywood. For the edges some aluminum bull nose finishes off the platform and gives you a non slip edge so you dont slip off when wet. The platform will have enough weight to stay in place with minimal if any attachment to the floor so you will not have to worry about the heat.

I also thought of trying this direction but changed my mind as I wanted to install a roof/shelf for storage over the shower/toilet and install a wash basin there is a drain for the wash basin already in the wall & I also have a under floor clean-out that I can chip open and use on that side of the room. The upper shelf roof area has water thru it as well already installed (as of last week.

still figuring that no tile on the floor and use some 50 yr silicon caulk between the stained/sealed concrete floor and the tile backer board. then use the tile bond adhesive from floor up walls & backer board with the first line of defense being grout and sealer. I picked up some of the "flexible tile tape" and the Flexible bonding agent for it.
Going to be putting some Durobond 90 and taping up the OSB and Skim Coating that maybe this week.

Mark

 

[CurlyDave]

I see 2 problems with using the concrete floor as a shower base.

1. If you look carefully at any shower base you will see that the surface slopes slightly toward the drain from all directions.

2. All shower pans have a lip which you step over to enter the shower. The lip goes all around the shower pan and if tile is used on the inside, the tile overlaps the lip so water will drain into the pan.

No matter how good a caulk job you do, your shower will have neither of these features, and you will end up with water all over the floor of the barn and not much down the drain at all.

At a minimum, select a shower pan that will couple with your drain and fur out the existing walls to meet it.