Me A Happy Camper - 1975 Dodge 500

   / Me A Happy Camper - 1975 Dodge 500 #31  
See if you can find a spec sheet for the two.

You might find that you can mess with the proportioning valve and balance it all back out. Worst case you end up playing with getting the right one. Look up the applications chart for the MC and then look at the trucks it was mounted in. Then see what the proportioning valve is. I may be using the wrong word for the proportioning valve -- the one under the hood for the Dodge. Old Volvo's had a rear proportioning valve that was adjustable (2xx series). Then there are the rear brake load sensing anti-lock proportioning valves a lot of tricks use now. They are mounted between the axle and frame, using an arm that moves with the axle returning excess brake fluid as the front dives (lengthens the distance between the frame and axle). They might be useful in rigging up a reasonable tunable system. Bet they are cheap at a junkyard. IF you need on.

What did the D600 use for brakes?

Also, Dodge sold a lot of these trucks in Mexico (not sure D500 or 600). You might have some luck with that.

I bought a 78 D200 USAF truck in the late 80's. 51000 miles. No fins on the radiator, even with the rear seat heater on and a light ran it was running hot on the 20 mile drive home. Anyhow, at least for the D200, it was built to contract spec, not the average spec you would have found at a dealer (front rotor to wheel bearing seals were D100 sized for example). It was the last year of the in cab tank -- worked in my favor when the fuel pump died and we pushed it to point downhill (just lucky). There were other not quite D200 parts on it, but nothing that big a deal.

Even if it is the wrong MC, you're out $50 to find out. I bet it works (oh, and a couple of brake lines).

===========

On that Cornbinder 1700 -- I have a 71 D100. The interior/cab parts for yours are a LOT cheaper. Guess the cab for yours being made from mid 60's to 1979 must have some volume to it.
 
   / Me A Happy Camper - 1975 Dodge 500
  • Thread Starter
#32  
See if you can find a spec sheet for the two.

You might find that you can mess with the proportioning valve and balance it all back out. Worst case you end up playing with getting the right one. Look up the applications chart for the MC and then look at the trucks it was mounted in. Then see what the proportioning valve is. I may be using the wrong word for the proportioning valve -- the one under the hood for the Dodge. Old Volvo's had a rear proportioning valve that was adjustable (2xx series). Then there are the rear brake load sensing anti-lock proportioning valves a lot of tricks use now. They are mounted between the axle and frame, using an arm that moves with the axle returning excess brake fluid as the front dives (lengthens the distance between the frame and axle). They might be useful in rigging up a reasonable tunable system. Bet they are cheap at a junkyard. IF you need on.

What did the D600 use for brakes?

Also, Dodge sold a lot of these trucks in Mexico (not sure D500 or 600). You might have some luck with that.

I bought a 78 D200 USAF truck in the late 80's. 51000 miles. No fins on the radiator, even with the rear seat heater on and a light ran it was running hot on the 20 mile drive home. Anyhow, at least for the D200, it was built to contract spec, not the average spec you would have found at a dealer (front rotor to wheel bearing seals were D100 sized for example). It was the last year of the in cab tank -- worked in my favor when the fuel pump died and we pushed it to point downhill (just lucky). There were other not quite D200 parts on it, but nothing that big a deal.

Even if it is the wrong MC, you're out $50 to find out. I bet it works (oh, and a couple of brake lines).

===========

On that Cornbinder 1700 -- I have a 71 D100. The interior/cab parts for yours are a LOT cheaper. Guess the cab for yours being made from mid 60's to 1979 must have some volume to it.

Thank you for your thoughtful & informative reply.

I ordered a different MC, 1 3/8" bore opposed to the 1 1/8", It also has a larger fluid tank. $70 opposed to $50.
Next is to figure out the mounting & sealing.

Have also to find a rear axle seal. None of the parts stores will even try with out a part # & their catalogs end about 1978.

I think Federal / Mogul does have the right seal if I can find someone to actually check by measure meant. There is no part # on the old seal.

I am not the first one to work on this brake / axle. Last person left the large nuts too loose & they cut a slight grove.

Also going to make a spanner wrench for the axle nuts. Basically a simple flat top U with an anti spreader bar across it.

First goal is Street Legal. Then maybe someday actually do a restore with paint & other nice things.

Thanks Again
Jim
 
   / Me A Happy Camper - 1975 Dodge 500 #33  
I think they used Rockwell axle assemblies in those trucks. It's been 20 years since I worked on a D400 truck, and I think it also had Rockwell axles.
 
   / Me A Happy Camper - 1975 Dodge 500 #34  
If you are looking for the axle seal, one option is Motion Industries. I think there is one near Tucson. I use them for most seals and bearings (roller type). I have purchased hydro cylinder seals and orings there, wheel bearings and seals etc. Most seals and bearings they just measure them and find a match. They don't look up based on make or model.

Heck, they may help with the master cyl.

Chuck

Chuck
 
   / Me A Happy Camper - 1975 Dodge 500
  • Thread Starter
#35  
If you are looking for the axle seal, one option is Motion Industries. I think there is one near Tucson. I use them for most seals and bearings (roller type). I have purchased hydro cylinder seals and orings there, wheel bearings and seals etc. Most seals and bearings they just measure them and find a match. They don't look up based on make or model.

Heck, they may help with the master cyl.

Chuck

Chuck

Hi Chuck,
Thanks for the information & help. Much appreciated.
2 / 3 More hours on the net & phone. Bah Hum bug
One of the Local company's & some good guys there went overboard helping me out. (Bearing, Belt & Chain )
Final outcome 1 seal, $35 including shipping & tax. 1 Week delivery time. Others that would even look wanted $35 to $55 + shipping & tax. Seal is considered an industrial seal.
Were I working on a Ford or Chevy, almost everyone would have the part & probably less than 10 Bucks.
 
   / Me A Happy Camper - 1975 Dodge 500 #36  
I picked up this one many years ago. It has 6542 miles original on it. It was a tanker and I pulled it off a few years ago and put this steel bed on. Has a 14t hoist with a pto unit. It is totally stock with a 361 and a 5sp. It had a rockwell rearend with 6.83 gears. I did change that out because it was just too slow. Has a two sp rear now and is comfortable at 55-60 turning about 2800rpm.

It is a ford 700 1972. Anyone interested it is for sale. Have to many toys and retired.
 

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   / Me A Happy Camper - 1975 Dodge 500
  • Thread Starter
#37  
I picked up this one many years ago. It has 6542 miles original on it. It was a tanker and I pulled it off a few years ago and put this steel bed on. Has a 14t hoist with a pto unit. It is totally stock with a 361 and a 5sp. It had a rockwell rearend with 6.83 gears. I did change that out because it was just too slow. Has a two sp rear now and is comfortable at 55-60 turning about 2800rpm.

It is a ford 700 1972. Anyone interested it is for sale. Have to many toys and retired.

Nice looking truck & fire wood. Like them both. Were you closer I'd steal them. :D

Some day if I ever come across a transmission with a PTO, I'd like to make the old Dodge a Dump sell the old 1974 Chevy dump.

Do have some hard 3/16" steel to make an adapter for the MC. If lucky & things go well, it can be drilled & tapped to hold the new MC.

Have a bad case of spring fever, hardly getting anything done. Seem to be making progress in reverse.
 
   / Me A Happy Camper - 1975 Dodge 500
  • Thread Starter
#38  
Well i finally did something right. Not do to brains or brilliance, just blind dumb luck.

Instead of ordering the 4 3/4" seal that I thought fit. I ordered 4 11/16", just in case & if it was too small, it could be shimmed to fit.
After the proper amount of swearing, I cut a hard wood stick & knocked out the old seal with the bearing. Think my other lame attempts had loosened it up, as a couple of firm taps it popped right out.

I had left the old one in just in case a new seal could not be had. 2 Good things, it is 4 11/16 and on the inside has a part #.

Going to start a log book on all the part numbers, with brand names that are being replaced. As time goes on finding parts will get worse. Would like to find a repair & / or parts manual for the old guy. Maybe 1 day they will turn up someplace. 1 Thing I have learned, part numbers have changed over the years.
 
   / Me A Happy Camper - 1975 Dodge 500
  • Thread Starter
#39  
Some amazingly good luck.
Call U.S. Auto parts to check deliver status. Should be there on the 2nd. That be today.
Went out to paint numbers on sign. Here comes Fed X, even knew the driver, he has a box for me.

Behold brand new Master cylinder. Luck gets even better. Bolt spacing, size & boss diameter exactly the same. No adapter needed.
Very minor problem, need a pressure switch. Old Dodge has a mechanical switch on the brake pedal. May just run some wire & hook up 2 more brake lights.
Next minor problem. 5/16" & 1/4" Brake lines on opposite ends & at a slight angle. A little bending & they will work fine.

Real problem push rod is too large to go into master cylinder. Idea 1, grind out piston. Idea 2 Cut off push rod (Its hollow) and fit with an insert the right size & length. At this point like #2 better. 1/4" should fit into push rod, if threaded a nut can be used to adjust length if needed. Cylinder end of rod will need to be ground down slightly. Will also make a gasket to better seal vacuum chamber.

Any thoughts or ideas would be much appreciated.
 
   / Me A Happy Camper - 1975 Dodge 500
  • Thread Starter
#40  
At last some forward progress in being made.
Brakes back together on rear wheel.
Wheel seal is at parts store in town. Different part # than seal removed, sure hope it fits.
For all the good things about the new master cylinder, a big problem has come up. Push rod is actually solid, ends drilled & tapped. 2 Things planned, reinstall old MC & get brakes working. Then pull it off and see if it leaking out the rear & will also be able to feel if it is bypassing internally. Do some local driving & check all wheels for leaking fluid. In town, will try to find some 1/2" ID stainless tubing. It will be used to splice the MC push rod if needed.

Lots of rust to clean off vacuum chamber & will also install a gasket for a good seal.

When the right side brakes were done I made a spring installation tool out a giant nail. Could not find it, so ground down the actual brake tool and got it to work. It was too fat and got in the way of the spring. Well after everything was back together, up popped the tool I had made. The bad wheel cylinder was the Bendix cylinder shown.

bendix cylinder.jpgbrake MC.jpgbrake together.jpghelper stick.jpgspring tools.jpgvacume.jpg
Some progress pictures.
 
 
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