Pole Barn Question

[mytoys]

I have a question for those of you that have experience with pole barns. I see a pole barn in my future so I'm starting to think about it. I don't have a post hole digger but I have a backhoe. A post hole digger doesn't always work so well on my property because of all the rocks. Anyway, I know it's not ideal but, can I dig the holes for the posts with my backhoe? I realise I'm disturbing a lot of earth. I appreciate your thoughts.

Thanks.

 

[cowboydoc]

You can but that's alot of backfill. It's also difficult to get them tamped back so there's no wobble with that much dirt. If nothing else have somebody come dig them with a 12" auger or a hardened bit auger. That's an awful big hole to dig down 4' with a backhoe.

 

[kemartin3]

Maybe you have a reason to only be considering a pole style barn. If I had a BH, I think I'd pour a footing and stick frame it.

Kevin

 

[NIXON]

I'm with Kevin on this . If you're going to use a BH , I'd Dig footings and pour a slab . John

 

[Henro]

I guess it depends if you can get the concrete there easily for the footer...if you can then the slab naturally follows... /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

I guess I could have [not real easily, but not impossible either] but I decided to do a pole style construction of my shed. I do think the post hole digger was great though...if I had HAD to did the post holes with my backhoe...I guess I probably would have followed the advice above and went the footer/block wall route...

 

[wroughtn_harv]

I don't see where digging your holes with a backhoe would be a problem. It is one situation where a twelve inch bucket would be ideal.

I would suggest digging a trench if the rock will allow you to do that. I know, sometimes digging in rock you end up with a hole that's real big at the top.

Let's say you set the hoe in the middle and dig your holes so the open or sloped side is towards your inside. Once all your holes are dug to depth you have two sides vertical and parallel and one that is slightly sloped while the other is very sloped.

You then put in a sonotube. That's the cardboard concrete form for piers. You can get them in various sizes at good building supply stores. Take care to keep them in line, stakes and two by forms on the surface work fine, and then back fill around the sonotube.

You now have your post hole.

If you have cleaned the hole to natural earth at the bottom and you're kept the slope to a minimum on two sides and back filled carefully you should have this puppy by both ears.

 

[Junkman]

That is what I did a couple of years ago and the very first winter, the tubes were pushed out of level by the frost. I hadn't built on them at that point and it is a good thing. I would have had one lopsided deck had I not waited.

 

[yooperdave]

I just had a pole barn built.

The auger that the contractor used bent on one of my rocks, so I had to contract someone to dig 23 holes with his back hoe.

It turned out just fine.

The key is to bear the foundation on either undisturbed soil, or compacted soil.

Good luck.

Yooper Dave

 

[dmccarty]

mytoys,

I have the same situation as you do.

I really don't like the idea of putting the poles in the ground
even with PT wood. So I'm just going to put in concrete piers,
put in Simpson Strongtie post bases and put up 6x6 12' PT
posts.

This way the wood is out of the ground. I have concrete below
grade. And the work fits my equipment. Buried poles would be
stronger from a wind load perspective but I'm no really worried
about that issue.

To start I'll put down an ABC and when we have money go back
and pour a concrete pad. We just don't have the dollars to put
in concrete right now. I thought about putting in a concrete
foundation and pad to start but it does not fit the budget.

Later,
Dan

 

[5string]

Obviously, you do not plan on getting a permit for your future building - that's O.K. by me, like everyone else, I get frustrated with the beaucracy associated with that path. However, if for grins you decided to run your project past a engineer it wouldn't take long beacuse your building would have no calculable shear capability. Simpson straps are for vertical "up" loads, not shear. If I came by for a visit and the tree tops were moving I would not be in your building. The loads generated on a large flat surface by even small wind gusts are impressive.

I do have a suggestion that you may want to consider. When you poor your slab, sink J bolts in between the posts. Then, frame-up 2 X 6 walls and stand them in between the posts. Double-up the 2 X 6's common to each post and lag them in. Also, you will need to let-in a angled support member or have lots of blocking. Please note that you would still probably not meet standard shear requirements. You will also gain the ability of being able to insulate if you choose.

I am in the middle of a pole building project. I asked for commercial girts so I would have a 5.5 inch space between the outside siding and drywall for standard house type insulation.