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  1. #1
    Veteran Member
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    Dec 2002
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    Blair, Ne.
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    L3130

    Default Concrete form, flexible

    We are having concrete poured this week for our driveway pad and sidewalks. The Wife wants a curved sidewalk, corner actually, from the drive to the stoop. I have tried three times and broke the wood everytime. I tried bending 1/4 and 3/8 and then 3/8 with cuts in it. I got completely disgusted and gave up. Lots of four letter words. [img]/forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif[/img]

    What can I use to form this thats not wood and is not going to break? I called many rental places and most do not rent concrete forms let alone a flexible form. I've seen them on the internet but thats it. And I need to have it formed up by Thursday night so they can pour Friday.

    I was thinking of going down to a plastic shop here in town and buying a sheet of 1/8 or 5/32 and trying that. I've the 1/8 stuff for bumpers and corner gaurds for the RC track I used to run.

  2. #2
    Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
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    31
    Location
    Kansas
    Tractor
    Kioti DK35

    Default Re: Concrete form, flexible

    Ctyler

    Using masonite siding for flexible concrete forms works well, be sure to put plenty of stakes on the outside to hold in place.


  3. #3
    Platinum Member
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    Jul 2003
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    545

    Default Re: Concrete form, flexible

    I agree, masonite is your answer. It's readily available, cheap and easy to mill/cut/bend.

  4. #4
    Veteran Member
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    Dec 2002
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    Blair, Ne.
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    L3130

    Default Re: Concrete form, flexible

    Ok..Thanks!!


  5. #5

    Join Date
    Aug 2002
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    7,386
    Location
    North East CT
    Tractor
    2003 Kubota BX-22

    Default Re: Concrete form, flexible

    Don't know if it is still available, but I used to buy a 6" x 8' piece of particle board at the masons supply house that was used for form making. It was inexpensive and one time use unless you were careful removing it. I would back up the form using 18" lengths of re rod pounded in the ground....
    If you are pouring a apron for the garage, consider drilling into the edge of the garage floor and putting some 1/2" re rod coming out the holes and bending down to hold the apron to the floor. Also, if the earth is disturbed, I would suggest wire in the apron and also fiberglass in the cement. Pour a little thicker.... 6".... it isn't that much more expense and is less likely to crack in my experience. I also go for the extra $$ and order 4000 # mix.... overall additional cost will be under $100.... and well worth it in my opinion.....

  6. #6
    Veteran Member
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    Dec 2002
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    Blair, Ne.
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    Default Re: Concrete form, flexible

    The pad is already formed and the rock packed for 4". Actually a lot of it is 4 1/2". The transition points are aprox 7-8". We will be using fiber mesh as well, not sure what mix was planned, I'll have to ask on that one.

    The dirt was filled over 9 months ago and packed with an CAT 815(?) sheep foot we rented(Big). The only part that was not is the 1' of backfill. I filled that 6+ months ago to the top of the foundation and drove over it a 100+ times with my tractor and hoe. I had to fill the garage area with 16 loads of crushed concrete. There has been zero settling. I dug it back out last week didn't leave any tire depressions and it was about as hard as a friggin rock.

    Will throw down some rebar wasn't planing on any drilling though.

  7. #7
    Bronze Member
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    Jul 2003
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    92
    Location
    Southeast CT
    Tractor
    Kubota L5030 and KX161

    Default Re: Concrete form, flexible

    I've had good luck with thin plywood. Wet the plywood overnight to make it flexible, then use lots of stakes and form it 1 stake at a time. My 2 cents

  8. #8
    Veteran Member have_blue's Avatar
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    Oct 2003
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    1,730
    Location
    Eunice, Louisiana
    Tractor
    L4400

    Default Re: Concrete form, flexible

    </font><font color="blue" class="small">( I've had good luck with thin plywood. Wet the plywood overnight to make it flexible, then use lots of stakes and form it 1 stake at a time. My 2 cents )</font>

    I agree.

    It helps to cut the plywood strips the "limber way", meaning the outer plies are cross grained. Wetting the wood makes 100% difference in the flexibility too.

  9. #9

    Join Date
    Aug 2002
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    7,386
    Location
    North East CT
    Tractor
    2003 Kubota BX-22

    Default Re: Concrete form, flexible

    </font><font color="blue" class="small">(
    Will throw down some re-bar wasn't planing on any drilling though. )</font>

    If you have access to a hammer drill it will only take a few minutes and it is worth every minute of it. Even if the apron doesn't drop, it can still pull away.... with the re rod it can't go in any direction. I drilled the holes about every foot and angled them down about 15 degrees. Inserted the re rod and then hammered the rod down toward the ground where the slab was going to be. It is as solid as a rock and hasn't moved at all.... I did this because at my old house, the mason didn't and the apron dropped and pulled away from the garage floor causing a place for water to get under it and it would heave every winter and come back down in the summer...

  10. #10
    Veteran Member
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    Blair, Ne.
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    L3130

    Default Re: Concrete form, flexible

    Hi Junkman, I got the rebar laid and tied tonight. I have a 1" hammer drill and so I'sa spose me should be drillin some holes.

    I'm starting to get to the "I don't care just get it done" point on the house. I can't remember the last time I took a day off from working on it. During the week between work and the house I'm putting in 15-16 hours a day and 12 on the weekends. Yes I'm whining. I need helpfull reminders now and then to not think that way...Thanks.

    As for the flexible forms the 4th time was a charm and the Wife is very happy. The masonite worked great! THANK YOU!!!!

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