HELP!!!! building a pole barn

[Junkman]

Don't know how bad the frost can get in your area, but here in Ct, it is a major problem for me. I had a rock that kept moving upward toward the surface and today decided to tackle it and get it out of the way once and for all. Here is the post that I have made earlier this evening. I wouldn't recommend that you just lag onto that rock, but remove it. I also had one come up in the middle of the drive way the past two winters. The driveway was paved 10 years ago and we put a base of 24" of gravel in before doing the driveway. This summer the paving contractor came by and cut out the pavement and removed the rock. The hole that they cut originally was 3' X 3'. When they got the rock out, the hole that it left was about 7' square that needed to be patched. I will take a picture of that rock and post it tomorrow for all to see..... Every winter the frost keeps moving the rocks to the surface. I just noticed another one that is coming to the surface. Next spring, it will also be removed before the final top surface will be done.... Frost is a PIA!!!!! Read about "Kubota BX vs. the Big Rock" here........

 

[mopower440]

I live in TN., not much freezing here.. But i think the frost line is 6 or 8 inches or something like that, i remember they burried the water line 8 inches only..thing is that this rock has spots that its even with the ground surface, meaning its flat and can be seen when looking at the ground, so can i set the post right on it even though its at ground level?

 

[SPIKER]

mopo:
I would suggest checking code dept too, like others, also then check the actual size of rock use sharp steel pointed rod to probe down for rock size if it so too large to move (like i belive you already suggested then) you can do 2 things move barn or use the rock as a base/footing. use a hammer drill to drill holes and anchor the "L" brackets to it and anchor those "L" bracket to the pole barn posts using Stainless Steel lag bolts. and proceed as usuall. yes dig holes put concrete in bottom 9precast post pads usually what they use around here) then drop post on top of pad and back fill with clay/dirt sand gravel mix also can put in some cement in bottom if you want but not required. don't concrete around the post , studies shot posts are better left in dirt than concreted around they last longer and hold better in dirt. and when you pour the floor put foam barrier around the posts to keep concrete off the posts, so they can GIVE if needbee, the posts can actually BREAK at the top of the concrete flooring if they are poured up aginst them and any load is applied to the wood beams.

that is how it is done around here anyways.

Mark M

 

[mopower440]

Mark, ok, if i pour the cement footings in the hole, then just set the posts on the footing and backfill with dirt, what actually anchors the building to the ground? I dont have to anchor the 6x6 posts to the poured cement footings? Good if i dont have to, one less thing to worry about!

 

[mopower440]

I talked to the building inspector today, says he needs to see a set of plans to issue a permit, says i can make the plans myself. he said i can set the post on that rock, said to try to anchor it to the rock if i can, his main concern seemed to be the roof, he says he needs a letter from whoever i get the trusses from saying that they can be spaced at whatever centers i set them on, he said i could probably go 2 foot centers with a metal roof.. or further using perlins, how do you all usually do it with a metal roof?

 

[Inspector507]

mopower440,
See that was easier than having to dig up the footings on your posts in the future, when a neighbor rats on you /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
I personally would use 2X4 purlins on top of the trusses, but thats my opinion.

 

[jwstewar]

I agree w/ Jerry. If I were doing a metal roof. I would have gone w/ 2x4 purlins on top of trusses 8' on center. That is how a lot of them are done around here. To make it even stronger, a little more cost, but a lot less than 16" on center you could go 4' on center.

I'm doing a 30X48 w/ a shingle roof over 7/16" OSB. I went 2' on center. With the 2' overhangs on each end it allows me to use 6 1/2 sheets of OSB per row. My trusses were $52.99 each (25 of them). I was able to get the OSB for $15.99 a sheet (55). That is a cost of a little over $2300 so far including the tar paper. Haven't purchased the shingles yet. But that will probably be around $600 for 25/30 year simple 3 tab. Now I'm depressed that I'll have almost $3000 just in the roof. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

 

[JerryG]

mopower440,
Have you thought about using this type of truss? Adams Truss I have 200 of these set on 10' centers. Mine are 40' and 43' wide. If you went this way you wouldn't have to have but 3-4 trusses. These people make good trusses, but their web site is lacking. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[SPIKER]

mOPO:

yes there was no physical connection of the post to the concrete pad placed in the bottom of the hole. it CAN be done though requirement locally aws not there and the placement of the post then becomes a bit harder as you have to have it placed EXACTLY or else everything can get out of flush/plumb and have a wall that is in or out a bit. now for holding it down the weight of the barn actually is ll that keeps the barn form lifting up when a big wind comes, but the dirt will exert forces aginst the posts squeezing it when you tamp the dirt down good with a spud bar. (which is what I did after wet setteling it for aobut 3+ months. NOW THAT ROCK or what ever they call them there chuncks that are that big. I would run a good string line and take great care making measurements and then lag into the rock with the angle iron plates as talked aobut above. only put on one corner, so you can place the post in that corner and screw into post then after posts are palced add in the other two sides to completely surround the post. also use Stainless Steel lag botls so you will never have to worry about them rusting. Next thing maybe even have to pre-drill the lag bolts ? depending on the hardness of the posts. mine are very hard now after 1 yr it is hard to get a nail into them. even green and dripping still theywere hard to nail. I think they are a hard wood or duglas fir, definatly NOT a soft pine...

Mark M