cheapest way out for polebarn roof?

[riptides]

Why not scratch build everything for the roof. I used
2x6 rafters that are 8 feet apart. They are screwed into the 4X4 poles, and a 2x12 at the top. Since they stradle the 4x4 they are "blocked" with a small 2x4 at the top and middle. The roof is metal, Pro-Panel I think, IIRC. Final size was 16X24. See pics here.
Mike's Pole Barn
Each sheet was 22 bucks at the local HD.

I think in that string, it was something like 2500 bucks for the whole package. I used stainless steel screws up there.

Oh, it survived Isabele, and my friend walking on the roof screwing in the ridgevent.

-Mike Z. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Gatorboy]

Re: cheapest way out for pole barn roof?

Are you sure you posted the proper link for Mike's Pole Barn ? I get an empty forum.

 

[Gatorboy]

Re: cheapest way out for pole barn roof?

MoPower,

If you would fill out your profile, it would help others in helping you. Many of the questions on TBN are not like math problems where there is one answer for the question. Your location, size of property, etc. play a big part in coming up with a good solution for the answers you seek.

 

[riptides]

Re: cheapest way out for pole barn roof?

Hmm, it goes right to the Re: B7800 in action! [Re: riptides]
string, in the 'bota group for me?

Must be a linking sickness thingy.

-Mike Z. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Gatorboy]

Re: cheapest way out for pole barn roof?

Now that you mentioned the title, I was able to search and find it. Let's see how my link works:

B7800 in action!

 

[yooperdave]

If you are sheeting the roof with tin, purlins are required because the tin and the trusses span in the same direction. The purlins are sized to support the tin, and span from truss to truss. You will also need to add bracing for lateral loads in the roof and walls.

As an example, my pole barn has 29ga tin on 2x4 purlins @ 16" o.c. with trusses at 8' o.c. The roof is rated for 60psf ground snow.

This all goes away if you provide sheathing such as plywood or OSB, and provide framing at 16" or 24" o.c.

I suggest you go see your local truss fab shop and get a price for some trusses sized to support a bay width of 8'. Taking conventional trusses which were designed for 2' spacing and respacing them to something bigger is not recommended.

Good luck

Yooper Dave

 

[mopower440]

UPDATE: went to lowes today and spoke extensively with the guy who orders the trussess, told him i was building a 24x30 pole barn with a metal roof and wanted to use trussess but wanted to go the cheapest way out, wether it be sturdier trussess with more spacing or less sturdy ones with closer spacing, he got on the phone with the truss builder and came up with using 9 trussess on 4 foot centers using 2x4 perlins, so thats taken care of, but im still not sure how far to space the perlins apart though..? Also trying to figure out what metal to use for the roof, the shingles on my house are brown and i would like to get metal that matches it, but the colored ones lowes has is like 24.00 a sheet, the natural colored galvanized is only 9.00 a sheet, but like i said, i need it in brown, anyone know of a colored metal that is cheaper than the 23.00 at lowes? BTW, i live in middle TN., so there is no snow, anyone wanna help me out with the spacing of the perlins and if im going the cheapes but still safe route on using 9 trussess at 4 foot centers, and about the metal roofing?
thanks again!

 

[Inspector507]

There again........best to consult the local building official as to what they are going to approve. Your drawings will have to spell this out.

 

[JerryG]

All of mine are spaced at 24".

 

[rambler]

You don't want the purlins more than 24" apart. Or the wind will take them. It's fine to be cost concious, but not so good to have to go retrive your bent up metal from the neighbors in a year.

There could be reasons to space them closer, like 16". Wind, snowload, local code, etc.

With a metal roof, you always need purlins, even on a 16" rafter spacing. The tin would sag between.

Since you are going as cheap as possible on all the materials, I would invest in screws rather than nails to hold it down. I think you will have some flexing with the slim lumber you are using.

--->Paul