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  1. #61
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    Massey GC1710.

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    Will try the hose bib with a 25' hose attached tomorrow, same distance as kitchen from valve board, plus the 25'.

    Sent from my idrankthekoolaid device c/o TractorByNet

  2. #62
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    Took about 12 seconds at hose for gallon of water.

    Sent from my idrankthekoolaid device c/o TractorByNet

  3. #63
    Veteran Member GPintheMitten's Avatar
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    Flushing, Michigan
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    Kubota B2620, Ford 2N

    Default Re: Water line trench

    So from the hose bib at 60 seconds for 5 gallons to the hydrant at 105 seconds for 5 gallons, the loss of flow rate is 43%.

    Good to know. Thanks for running the comparisons.

  4. #64
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    Default Re: Water line trench

    Great to have real world data and thank you for sharing the information... very much appreciated!

    PS... an elevation change could also factor it there is one.

  5. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by ultrarunner View Post
    Great to have real world data and thank you for sharing the information... very much appreciated! PS... an elevation change could also factor it there is one.
    There is about a ten foot gain in elevation from the house to the barn. And your welcome. It was an interesting project and I'm a much better back how operator for it. All in I added about 20 hours to the meter, including the final grading, etc. Sent from my idrankthekoolaid device c/o TractorByNet

  6. #66
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    IL
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    B2710

    Default Re: Water line trench

    Quote Originally Posted by MoMower View Post
    Took about 12 seconds at hose for gallon of water.
    So the calculation says if there's 5gpm at the end of a 25' hose, there will be 1.9gpm at the end of 170', both for 1/2" id. But reality is 2.86 gpm. That's pretty far off from what you observe, and there's a 10' rise, and you've probably got an elbow or two at each end, plus the impedance of the hydrant should make it even lower. I guess I'll go away and scratch my head about why the large difference. Thanks for posting the numbers.
    Kubota B2710, New Holland CM274 front mower, Toro Zmaster ZTR, Ford 908 bush hog, New Idea manure spreader, Swisher trail mower

  7. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by BeezFun View Post
    So the calculation says if there's 5gpm at the end of a 25' hose, there will be 1.9gpm at the end of 170', both for 1/2" id. But reality is 2.86 gpm. That's pretty far off from what you observe, and there's a 10' rise, and you've probably got an elbow or two at each end, plus the impedance of the hydrant should make it even lower. I guess I'll go away and scratch my head about why the large difference. Thanks for posting the numbers.
    Don't know if it'll help but rise is closer to 6' and there are no fittings, elbows, etc between valve board and the hydrant.

    Sent from my idrankthekoolaid device c/o TractorByNet

  8. #68
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    Hawthorne, FL
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    Kubota L285

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    Quote Originally Posted by ultrarunner View Post
    We are all 1/2" copper in house and for yard hydrant at Mom's place on city water... 180 psi +/- 5 lbs
    Are you sure. When we pressure tested water lines at the city, we required 150 psi for 2 hours because that's what DEP requires, but the highest static pressure I've ever seen on a public water main was 95 psi. We had areas in town that averaged 45 psi; city wife probably averaged 50-65 psi. That's mains, not 2" galvanized with 60 years of tuberculation.

  9. #69
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    Default Re: Water line trench

    Yes... in order to get pressure to the top of the hill those like her down in the "Valleys" have tremendous pressure.

    Elevation change in 3/4 of a mile is 700 feet. Homes on some of the short blind streets vary several hundred feet in elevation within 10 city lots.

    Homes were built in the 1950's and on city water.

    No one had any problems to speak of when the original toilets had bronze ballcocks and sprinkler valves and the water heaters had no Pressure Temperature Relief Valves.

    Problems started in the 70's when plastic made it's way into residential plumbing. We bought a new toilet from Montgomery Wards with a 10 year warranty back then and it had a plastic Ballcock which would last about 3 months like clockwork... after a year... the Wards plumbing manager gave us a Bronze one and all was good..,

    My neighbor around the same time put in a sprinkler system and was constantly blowing out the lines... I put a regulator on one the sprinkler supply side which solved that problem and created another because he now had to double the number of stations on his 1 acre lot.

    The Water Heater PTR valves have been problematic here... can't use the off the shelf ones and need to buy the more expensive adjustable ones...

    Since then I have put house water pressure regulators on Mom's and a couple of the neighbors for the house side only and not the garden...

    City water pressure at the Hospital where I work is consistently 69 psi...

    PS... water hammer arrestors, mechanical or air chambers have been standard here since the homes were built.

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