Pouring Concrete Around a Well Casing???

[Indygunworks]

I will wait to order the pump until after the well is dug just to be sure, but all the well logs for my area have a static water level of around 11-15 feet. This means I can use a shallow water pitcher pump as an electricity free backup, for clean drinking water. I really want the old style look, not the open spout 16 inch tall pumps that seem to dominate the market today. I have found two (probably the same one). One is on ebay and offers a decent picture, and one is from agrisupply. Here are the links

Rand Large Shallow Well Pump Hand Operated Garden Fountain Farm Pitcher Water | eBay

and agrisupply

Heavy Duty Tall Cast Iron Pitcher Pump

The base on the ebay one looks wider and is pre drilled for mounting holes.

My thoughts to make this as solid as possible is to dig about a 3 foot square area about 20 inch's down around the well casing. I will put some conduit in to make room for the electric wiring that powers the well pump. I would then put up some forms and pour a square concrete "pillar" around the well casing either flush with the top (would have to figure out a way of securing the well cap) or just below the top far about an inch below the well cap. That would allow me to use threaded concrete anchors that I would install after the concrete has cured. I could then mount the lower base to the concrete "pier" and that would allow me to assemble everything and make for a very solid arrangement that looks like its supposed to be there and not something I just threw together. I have never had a well so I don't know whats involved with servicing it, but it appears from the research I have done that this concrete would not interfere with anything a company might have to do.

Is this a practical idea, or fools gold?

 

[Rustyiron]

A couple of thoughts, I'm not sure that there's enough room in a normal well casing for both pipes & the electrical service to go down to water level. The modern well cap is a tightly sealed "O ring" type that keeps the bugs out. For your concrete block, I would be concerned if the concrete was flush with the top of the casing, allowing the possibility of rain water washing the birdchit in there (the well) that you will have from the birds that will be perching on your hand pump.
I like your idea but it might be better to just spend your pump money on a generator that will pull your pump and your fridge & freezer. My:2cents:

 

[oosik]

That is a great looking hand pump. Some thoughts - - I'm fairly sure you have freezing weather in the winter, make sure this hand pump is designed for winter use. When you pour the concrete - trowel it so the top slopes, slightly away from the pump in all directions - this will keep any contamination from draining into the well. You might want to install the threaded anchor bolts into the wet cement. Just set the base of the pump into the wet cement to get an exact outline for the anchor bolt placement. Otherwise, it sounds like it will be a fine looking & functional addition to the yard.

 

[Indygunworks]

I just bought a generator... but that's a short term. this would give me some longer term options, as well as making the well casing sticking up look like its a part of the homestead.

I will still have the well pipe sealed one way or another, even if its a rubber compression cap to make the seal. I could slope the concrete away letting water run off.

I have 2 3/4 inch's of clearance between the pitless adapter and the other side of the casing. the drop pipe is only 1 1/4 inch's and wont have anything on the bottom. It will be PEX so it will be flexible enough to follow the path of least resistance.

 

[Indygunworks]

That is a great looking hand pump. Some thoughts - - I'm fairly sure you have freezing weather in the winter, make sure this hand pump is designed for winter use. When you pour the concrete - trowel it so the top slopes, slightly away from the pump in all directions - this will keep any contamination from draining into the well. You might want to install the threaded anchor bolts into the wet cement. Just set the base of the pump into the wet cement to get an exact outline for the anchor bolt placement. Otherwise, it sounds like it will be a fine looking & functional addition to the yard.

My understanding after lots of reading is that these type of pumps are incredibly inefficient at keeping a prime. so as long as I leave the handle UP after I use it when its below freezing all the water will drain back down to below frost line before it has a chance to freeze. If I do get some freezing I can just use hot water for starting the prime which will thaw everything out. the water coming up will be 55 degrees so it should keep things thawed and allow for drainage before it refreezes. Ill also keep a few sets of spare leathers around in case I need them.

 

[Cord]

They make adapters to bolt the pump right to the casing. You'll want the casing to have a little height to make sure it doesn't get contaminated. You'll also want a pump with some modern improvements to make sure it doesn't contaminate the well water. Basically, the area around the rod is open to any bird perched on the rod. There are covers available to cover the rod and make the installation more sanitary. Don't forget, the pump is only the part above ground. There is a pipe and cylinder assembly that is in the casing. I'd highly recommend looking at the Lehman's website for your hand pump needs. They are great people there.

 

[Rustyiron]

Indy, I'd check with your well/pump guy. In the well's that I've had there are 3 loosely taped or twisted wires that provide elec. for the pump, the well pipe that has the spacers every 15' or so attached to the well pipe that keep it centered in the "hole" and prevent chaffing of your well pipe over the years, and there is also a 1/4" or so pull rope attached to the pump. That big casing get's pretty cluttered.
Keep us filled in on your project and here in Maine, there are a lot of folks that have Bison Hand Water Pumps

 

[Indygunworks]

They make adapters to bolt the pump right to the casing. You'll want the casing to have a little height to make sure it doesn't get contaminated. You'll also want a pump with some modern improvements to make sure it doesn't contaminate the well water. Basically, the area around the rod is open to any bird perched on the rod. There are covers available to cover the rod and make the installation more sanitary. Don't forget, the pump is only the part above ground. There is a pipe and cylinder assembly that is in the casing. I'd highly recommend looking at the Lehman's website for your hand pump needs. They are great people there.

quite frankly the uplift pumps that have the pump below ground are just to expensive. I am looking at a minimum of 600 dollars before the drop pipe and the cylinder. that's why I am wanting a suction pump where all it has is a 1 1/4 inch pipe that goes down into the water column.

Do you have a link to the available covers? I think I could make one very easily out of some waterproofed duck cloth. Although I would like to leave the pump open for the cosmetic value.

 

[Indygunworks]

Indy, I'd check with your well/pump guy. In the well's that I've had there are 3 loosely taped or twisted wires that provide elec. for the pump, the well pipe that has the spacers every 15' or so attached to the well pipe that keep it centered in the "hole" and prevent chaffing of your well pipe over the years, and there is also a 1/4" or so pull rope attached to the pump. That big casing get's pretty cluttered.
Keep us filled in on your project and here in Maine, there are a lot of folks that have Bison Hand Water Pumps

this is the first I have heard about the spacers inside of the well casing. the well will be dug sometime in feb or march, and I am hoping to have this stuff onsite so the well guy can see it and help with the installation accordingly. Maybe he could omit any of the spacers for the first 30 feet of the casing.

Again the drop pipe is just 1 1/4 inch pex so any wires or rope should just get pushed out of the way.

 

[Cat_Driver]

You can make it simple by getting a large sonotube ( Max diameter you want ) & Height then get a smaller tube 4"-12" or whatever you feel comfortable with SMALLER that the max large tube. Place smaller tume in the center of LARGE tube, Pour mixed concrete between the two.

Hand Water-Well Pumps. Motorized. Great with solar. The modern hand water pump.

size chart
Size Chart - Sonoco Construction Products

Here are some caps Hand and Motorized Water Pumps by Simple Pump. Well Cap options.

One note don't go FLAT withe the well as sometimes water with some minor flooding will enter the well, this happened to me and it filled up my well with sand.