Planting Trees - Re-Foresting

[Henry]

I've got a need to "re-forest" part of my property. The prior owner got a little chain-saw happy and we're not too thrilled with the appearance of approx. 5 acres of our property. We're looking at planting approx. 60 trees (30 pines / 30 hardwoods). I'll be planting 2 to 3 year seedlings, which I figure that I'll purchase this September, plant in an old vegatable garden (good soil), then transplant next spring. Our property is in Central PA, in a mountainous area, so we've got that lovely hard-packed shale soil. Because of these poor sool conditions, I thought I ought to dig good sized holes for planting and fill-in around the seedlings with some good top soil. Now with 60 trees to plant, I've got a lot of holes to dig and a lot of soil to move ......

Question: Could I use a 3-pt. post hole digger (auger) to dig the holes ?

Question: Am I asking for trouble, planting seedlings, then re-transplanting ?

Question: Has any body else done something similar?


Treeless in Pennsylvania ......
Henry

 

[Caretaker]

Henry,

(1) A post-hole digger is pretty much designed for what you want to do, that is digging the holes to plant the trees. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif You can rent the implement or buy one - and given the number of trees you're planting, and the future uses for a post-hole digger, I suspect that you'll want to buy one...unless you can rent one REALLY cheap. The nice thing about having your own is that if you decide to knock off today and go trout fishing, you don't have to worry about an extra days rental charges.../w3tcompact/icons/cool.gif

(2) I'm don't think I'd plant seedlings this fall then transplant them next spring. Trees typically do best if they're planted in their permanent site in the fall - gives them time to settle in and get some roots established before they start growing in the spring. Just don't fertilize them when you plant them in the fall - fertilize them the first spring. And any time you transplant, you run the risk of damaging the seedlings when you dig them up and you run the risk of transplant shock - which means probably losing some of the seedlings. IF the seedlings have been grown inside, they MIGHT need some "hardening off", ie. setting them outside in the sun for progressively longer periods. Another benefit to planting them in fall - the sun is lower in the sky and you probably won't have to do that. But, if that's what you need, then a post-hole digger won't work for digging up the seedlings - probably a manually operated shovel would be best for digging them up /w3tcompact/icons/shocked.gif - although I suppose one could (carefully !) use a backhoe for that.

Dave Wells

 

[rekees]

Henry

You could probably get some good advice from the PA dept. of natural resources. Here in Indiana the state has professional foresters who are eager to help landowners. Perhaps PA. even has a program(s) that will help with the cost?

Chuck in IN

 

[cowboydoc]

Henry,
I did everything just as you have said and it worked out just fine. I planted pines. I bought 3 year old ones, planted in black dirt for two years and then transplanted to holes dug with a post hole digger. I've only lost a couple over the last five years.

 

[Boondox]

Henry provided a great example of my primary concern in using a 3PT post hole digger in a previously forested area. The prior owner took out the trees, but not the roots. How do you avoid getting the auger bound up by one of those roots, and what do you do if despite your best efforts you snag one deep anyway? There's no "reverse" on the PTO, so is this a case of praying your 3PH lift capacity can yank it out of the ground?

Curious in Vermont. Pete

 

[cowboydoc]

Pete,
Good question. I have always used my Massey with the post hole digger and it goes through everything. It's also reversible. Usually if there is one that I can't go through it will just spin on the root though. May be interesting this summer with the 4600. I have alot of fence to build on my new property.

 

[Thomas]

Henry,
You may want to consider when planting your trees have the base of the tree inch or two below ground level,that way when it rains you'll be watering your trees in stead of the water running off.

If your dirt that poor you might want to what a little longer until the root system stronger before transplanting in the fall.

Try and not to over fertilize,also some feed store carry a fertilizer tablet and all you have to do just drop the tablet into the hole before planting the tree.

Don't make the same mistake as I did..space your trees when planting for the years to come.

Thomas..NH /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

 

[Bird]

<font color=blue>How do you avoid getting the auger bound up by one of those roots, and what do you do if despite your best efforts you snag one deep anyway? </font color=blue>

My nearest neighbor loaned his post hole digger to a friend, who screwed it into the ground and couldn't pull it out with the 3-point hitch. So he decided to try driving forward and backward to loosen it up./w3tcompact/icons/frown.gif That ain't the way you do it; they will bend./w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif

Bird

 

[Blu21]

Henry, Something I would highly recommend when it comes to transplanting is a product called Wilt Pruf. you can find info on the web.You spray it on the tree and it forms a barrier preventing moisture loss. I have transplanted pines 5ft.+ in the summer with no dieback. Tom

 

[gordon]

I've planted a couple of trees in my time and a post hole digger should work well. It's always best to transplant just once if possible. Less shock on the trees. Also the best thing to do is consult a local forester. But if you want some info off the net here is a good page. It has calculators as well for planting. http://www.timberbuyer.net/ It also has a forum that you can ask the forester a question.
Gordon