Culvert

[Richard]

I guess it''s called a culvert.

We have a drain running under our gravel driveway so the collection of rain water on the upside can drain down to the lake.

Years ago, we had the farm timbered by someone that wasn't thinking to clearly.

The agreement was in part that they would install a new culvert....and they did. THEN they started this part of the farm with their timbering and huge trucks.

The huge trucks crushed the culvert and when they were finished they were done. My father in law never held their feet to the fire to fix it.

So, today it's now washed out.

It looks like the drain itself is (I'm guessing since I've yet to dig up the end of it) Anyways, looks like it's 10" correguated plastic.

What I'm wondering is what should I replace it with if in fact, it's crushed as it appears to be?

Would schedule 40 work? Just put more corregated in?

I'm planning on ripping it out with the backhoe which will give me a two foot swath. I can lay anything in there. Question is what would work best and be strongest.

Also, I understand that you want 50% or was it 75% of the diameter as coverage on top. So if the pipe is say, 12" diameter, you'd want maybe 8" of fill on TOP of it to spread the weight. (something like that)

This isn't TOO deep so that might be the problem. I'd like strong material.

 

[747driver]

First off...what kind of traffic is going over this culvert/road ? If it gets alot of use and heavy vehicles then i would opt to install the metal corrugated pipe.

 

[paulsharvey]

Your not going to find Sch-40 PVC in sizes you need for culvert unless you get into exotic stuff. Basically for culverts, the smallest size is normally 15" diameter. Your choices of material is corrugated galvanized steel; asphalt coated corrugated steel; PVC; HDPE; Concrete; and ABS.

Corrugated steel, in 15" is moderately light, moderately cheap, moderately long life, and easy to install.

HDPE is fairly cheap, weaker, and should last forever if not over loaded, it is light, but that can be a down side, as it can float up if you have a high water table

RCP, Reinforced Concrete Pipe; in round or elliptical; is heaviest, strongest, long life, and you need a real hoe to install. It's probably most expensive, and will out live your children's children. The pipe itself will probably never fail, just make sure the joints have the rubbers and are pushed home

Black ABS is probably the cheapeat, weakest, and easiest. It's widely used in areas for private development, but DOT doesn't use it


If it was me, I have used and like RCP, but if you don't have a back hoe (not a toy on the back of a 30 hp tractor) I'd use Corrugated metal, with at least 6-12" of cover, in 15".

 

[Creamer]

50% of pipe diameter minimum of coverage assuming it is hardpacked. I wouldn't use anything but corrugated, galvanized pipe because of its strength, durability, and cost. I would not go any smaller than 10" just to keep trash from plugging it.

 

[Looking4new]

Corrugated, galvanized 24" diameter and at least a foot of cover. Sand in the bottom and sides of the hole up to within 6" of grade then whatever gravel on top of that. Don't forget to pack the sand.

 

[Streetcar]

The secret to long life for culvert is the backfill. You want the trench three times pipe diameter.
How much fill can you get over pipe.
I always put in a 12" minimum diameter pipe to prevent clogs
Galvanized pipe is typical culvert in Ohio
Pvc pipe would need a minimum of two feet of cover for typical road loading

 

[paulsharvey]

Corrugated, galvanized 24" diameter and at least a foot of cover. Sand in the bottom and sides of the hole up to within 6" of grade then whatever gravel on top of that. Don't forget to pack the sand.

Unless the ditch has a high flow, 18" is the standard FDOT driveway size, and is fine 90% of the time. 15" isn't much cheaper and offers no real advantage over 18" unless you have a shallow ditch, in which case 11"×17" ERCP is the ticket.

 

[paulsharvey]

A picture of the ditch or swale would help a lot.

As a short word of advice, go no less than 16 ft in straight away, or 24 ft if near a turn/or at the road; 32 ft is better. You'd be surprised how easy it is to miss judge a 16 ft crossing in a turn radius, with a trailer


Edit: https://www.menards.com/main/p-1444427395197.htm. something like this, from the supplier of your choice. Asphalt coated galvanized is used if your in a highly acidic area (tannin in swamp water east the zinc)

Re-edit: here is a price list, installed by local County in North Florida. Mostly local governments won't install for private people, but Bradford County FL does

INSTALLED*CULVERT PRICES*EFFECTIVE 01*23*07*
18*X*24*NEW*$518.00* REPLACEMENT $332.00*
18*X*30*NEW*$576.00* REPLACEMENT $392.00*
18*X*32*W/MITERED*ENDS*NEW*$627.00*REPLACEMENT $418.00*
18*X*8’ MITERED*ENDS,*$106.00*EACH, $212.00*PER PAIR
EXTRA FOOTAGE*$9.90*PER FOOT*
24*X*24*NEW*$594.00* REPLACEMENT $409.00*
24*X*30*NEW*$674.00* REPLACEMENT $489.00*
24*X*36*W/MITERED*ENDS*NEW*$784.00*REPLACEMENT $570.00*
24*X*8’ MITERED*ENDS*$169.00*EACH $338.00*PAIR
EXTRA FOOTAGE*$13.11*PER FOOT
30*X*24*NEW*$663.00* REPLACEMENT $478.00*
30*X*30*NEW*$759.00* REPLACEMENT $574.00*
EXTRA FOOTAGE*$15.95*PER FOOT
18”*BAND*$18.00*EACH*
24”*BAND*$24.00*EACH*
30”*BAND*$30.00*EACH*
COUNTY*POLICY*
1. The*county will not*sell culverts to*private land*owners. 2. The* county will only install culverts on county right* of way for
entrance to*property owner*residence. 3. The* county will not* install* culverts for commercial* firms or
residential developers. 4. If owners of private residence provides own culvert and* it* meets
county specifications. The* county will install* for $175.00. A*
permit*is still required*at*no*cost. Dirt*only, no lime*rock.

 

[DJ54]

Do you have any large contractors in the area..?? Especially a bridge contractor..?? If you do, and decide on 12" pipe, see if they have any scrap tubular piling. It is 12", about 3/16" thick, and spiral welded. It make great culvert. I have 2 driveways with it in it. Both put in in 1971, and hardly any deterioration at all. Both have about 1' of cover on them, and have had loaded semi's drive over it with no damage at all.

It can normally be bought at scrap price. Last I bought for an extension on the one drive the scrap prices were up, but still only cost me $7 per foot. If you have a welder, torch, and grinder, you can butt weld them together. I even took some 2" X 1/8" strap, and made welded collars in case it would happen to flex for some reason.

 

[Coyote machine]

Double walled, smooth inside, polyethylene, corrugated on outside. One male end, one female end, never wears out like galvanized metal. Used here in VT on secondary roads, impervious to silt, salt, corrosion, etc. Properly set and backfilled, will not collapse. Easy to set, easy to connect to secondary sections.

Just had town install one 3' diameter, 3 sections, 20' each across my road where my pond empties out. Replaced old failed galvanized steel single wall with corrugation inside and out. Culvert had collapsed because section where salt and water passed rotted away- completely. Not a problem with poly culverts.:confused3: