Metal Shop Building - Upgrades

[jrepp44]

I will shortly have a 30' x 65' metal shop, storage type building constructed.
I want to specify construction that is above the norm.
Any thoughts and additions to my list would be appreciated.

Heaver Gauge steel 24 vs 26 vs 29?
Standing seam / hidden fasteners for the roof, instead of exposed screws with rubber washers?
Overhang's all sides 12" or xx"?
Gutters?
Roof pitch?
Panel width?
Roll up door vs garage type door?
Man door width 32", 34", 36" or xx"?
Storage area on the side?
Carport type area on the front?
Rafter spacing?

Thanks,
Jim

 

[mapper]

I would recommend upgrading the insulation and vapor barrier under the roof, at least 1.5" of fiberglass plus a continuous vapor barrier. If not you may feel like it's raining inside any time it is cooler outside than in your new shop.
I had to replace all the screws on my roof after about thirty years, I had also routinely replaced a few every few years when they failed on an individual basis.

 

[RedNeckRacin]

always good to go heavier guage, 26 should be fine
standing seam with hidden fasteners would be my vote
at least 12" overhang all sides, I would look at the raised energy trusses
4/12 pitch is standard up north to help shed snow, dunno what to recommend down south
absolutely want a insulated garage door if you are heating or cooling garage
man door 36" for sure
if you have the budget and room a storage area would be great as would the car port
what are you using for rafters?

 

[Industrial Toys]

I specified much heavier then rated snow load calculations. I guess you don't get snow.

I also specified plywood, not OSB sheeting for sound deadening under the roof and on the exterior walls for stiffening. I went B&B not steel on the exterior.

Polycarbonate doors. I love them!

A bridge crane would have been going to far, but hey, one can dream.

 

[hawkeye08]

I specd snow load at 40, winds from SE at 70.

I would have specd the posts that have concrete bottom to above ground level (avoid posts rotting out after 20 years)

 

[newbury]

I would recommend upgrading the insulation and vapor barrier under the roof, at least 1.5" of fiberglass plus a continuous vapor barrier. If not you may feel like it's raining inside any time it is cooler outside than in your new shop.
I had to replace all the screws on my roof after about thirty years, I had also routinely replaced a few every few years when they failed on an individual basis.

I had 1" roll foam insulation applied. It had been raining inside due to condensation.

I will shortly have a 30' x 65' metal shop, storage type building constructed.
I want to specify construction that is above the norm.
Any thoughts and additions to my list would be appreciated.

Heaver Gauge steel 24 vs 26 vs 29?

Yup, thicker is better

Standing seam / hidden fasteners for the roof, instead of exposed screws with rubber washers?

I've screws w/ degrading washers on one workshop.

Overhang's all sides 12" or xx"?

12" should be good.
Might look into installing ledger boards to hook open side-shed roof to

<snip>
Roll up door vs garage type door?

I've got both and if it's NOT going to be airconditioned I like my sliding barn doors

Man door width 32", 34", 36" or xx"?

36" at least.
I've a couple of doors where they used narrow RV doors, a REAL pain.

Keep us posted with pics please.

 

[Catchad81]

I will shortly have a 30' x 65' metal shop, storage type building constructed. I want to specify construction that is above the norm. Any thoughts and additions to my list would be appreciated. Heaver Gauge steel 24 vs 26 vs 29? Standing seam / hidden fasteners for the roof, instead of exposed screws with rubber washers? Overhang's all sides 12" or xx"? Gutters? Roof pitch? Panel width? Roll up door vs garage type door? Man door width 32", 34", 36" or xx"? Storage area on the side? Carport type area on the front? Rafter spacing? Thanks, Jim

Go heavy on the roof and wall panels. Kynar painted panels will provide the best long term finish if you go colored. Exposed faster pbr panels provide long life's. A standing seam will cost more in material and labor plus equipment to seam the panel. Metal buildings, preen gingered anyway don't usually have overhangs. They can, but what are you gaining? Do a typical eave condition with gutters. Panel widths are standard depending on the type of panel you choose. Pbr is 36". Standing seam 16" or 18", or less. Typical slope in the south can be as little as .5/12, but that is pretty flat. I did 2.5/12 on my shop for looks and also to help get in a 14' tall door. Doors depend on width. Roll up doors are good. Man doors are standard 36". Typical purlin spacing on a metal building is 4' with no loads on the roof. You can get any spacing less than that you want.

 

[Industrial Toys]

I wished I had somewhat more overhang on the back and sides. No one asked and I didn't think of it. Most generic outbuilding plans are just about cheap and simple. Adding special stuff, adds up in a hurry. I think I went over projected cost by about three times! In other words, I could have built a HUGE but simple building for the same money. As it sits now, I have again, run out of room!

 

[mapper]

No matter how big you build it, you will run out of room:laughing:

 

[RedNeckRacin]

No matter how big you build it, you will run out of room:laughing:

Truth! maybe you should double the size right now op!