Metal building leaking windows

[radioman]

looks like you are between a rock and a hard place. your original intentions was to convert your pole barn living area into a workshop after house is built, but now you want to stay in it. I am going to assume big on something -- you already built the interior walls for the living space so your have no idea whats really happening inside the walls.

If my assumptions is correct ( i know my bad to assume but ..) I think your best plan of attack now is to remove the one window area whewre exterior metal siding under the window and above. its only screws. I am pretty sure it will tear your foam insulation - but i am pretty sure that you will find your answers there . is the foam eaten up by mice? poorly applied? missed spots? soaked with water? need better rubber membrane tape applied around your windows? is the foam deteriorated along on the bottom where ribs stick out from snow melting absorbed into the foam where its missing a bottom cap and caulked?

This would be my plan of attack as an internet answer .. If I was there in person - it might be a different plan of attack - i dont know since I feel there its easier to determine the issue in person.

 

[Ford850]

With a simple pole barn style window installation, how do you seal them? They have built in j-channel all around, so the water flows off the top and down the side channels. It flows down these sides and under/around the edge of the steel siding. Now it's on the inside of the steel and flows down on the inside of the siding, to the bottom corners of the window, and then below the windows. How do you flash or seal things so water cannot get under the steel on the sides, as it gets to the bottom corner of the window?
I have this problem on my barn built by Cleary, and it sounds like the OP might have the same problem.

 

[EddieWalker]

Prevent Window Leaks with Proper Window Installation | The Family Handyman

 

[LD1]

Eddie beat me to it, but if indeed it is a open cell spray foam......you are gonna have nothing but issues.

SOP around here is to use 1" of closed cell foam (more expensive), because it provides the vapor barrier and doesnt absorb moisture. Then put open cell (because its cheaper) on top of that to get the desired R-value.

I too would like to see some details or pics of just how the windows were installed, sealed, and trimmed. I am by no means an expert, but so far have to agree that the contractor is an idiot. Piling on caulking around the window is not a proper fix at all.

 

[Redlands Okie]

Your contractor is an idiot. He should have never allowed you to use open cell foam on a metal building. Open cell foam is a sponge and it will hold water until it saturated, and then quickly turn into a mold mess. It voids all metal warranties because it holds moisture.

The window was not installed properly. The proper method for installing windows keeps evolving, but the basics are that it is sealed around the flange with flashing tape, or some other specialty tape. The simple fact that he is trying to fix this with caulking and more open cell foam proves that he is an idiot.

Adding gutters and an overhang, or even a small porch like covering over the window will cut down to some degree of how much water you are getting on the window, but it will not solve the problem that the window was installed incorrectly.

Just about every month, magazines like JLC and Fine Home Building have articles on how to install windows. It's really basic, but for whatever reason, not always done like it should.

It's time to find somebody who knows what he is doing and get rid of the hack that is wasting your time.

You nailed it EddieWalker.
But main reason for this post is to say that in roughly 36 years of a wide variety of types of remodel work this is one of the very very few times I have seen Fine Homebuilding and Journal of Light Construction mentioned. Even people i know in the trades do not seem to read up on new info such as provided by these type of publications. Great info in them and easily to see on the internet now a days

 

[tab1234]

Thanks for all the responses. Tried to attach photos, will see if it works. Gutter overhang is not the issue.

 

[tab1234]

Insulation picture.

 

[Billrog]

Toughs windows have no flashing that I can see.

 

[Rock knocker]

You nailed it EddieWalker.
But main reason for this post is to say that in roughly 36 years of a wide variety of types of remodel work this is one of the very very few times I have seen Fine Homebuilding and Journal of Light Construction mentioned. Even people i know in the trades do not seem to read up on new info such as provided by these type of publications. Great info in them and easily to see on the internet now a days

I somehow missed the pole building issue of FHB during the last thirty years of my subscription.

 

[Ford850]

tab1234, Your pictures back up my question above. It's not about the windows as much as the siding. How is metal siding supposed to be installed to avoid this situation? Water can get under the siding (between siding and J channel) and trickle down inside the structure on a pole barn type build. It's not like the sheathed buildings with wrap, that can shed water down. Once it's on the inside of the metal, it is in the building. Or in your case, absorbed in the insulation.
Back to my question above, how do you seal metal siding around j channel windows on a pole barn?