First project with the loader
- Thread starter aarolar
- Start date
RNeumann
Elite Member
I thought from your first description you were just leveling it out and "loosing" the material right there. If you are making piles to be moved run parallel with the road starting on top and work your way down.
If you have access to a box blade with rippers you will have an easier time. Use the rippers to loosen things up and drag the material toward a pile. Typically a full/over flowing box holds more than your bucket. Plus the rippers are loosening and raising material into the box as you go.
Set the box up with your adjustable links so it is parallel with the machine side to side. The top gets adjusted depending on how aggressive you can cut. The lower the front of the box (when attached to the machine) the more aggressive the cut. If you get the front too high it will just smooth things out (but not take much material) and get the front too low and you will bog the machine down or spin the tires. If you try and adjust with the 3 point height every time you will just frustrate yourself- given the amount of material to move. So take a bit of time to get the top link set up front and the rest will be much easier. You will just need to raise the top link if you hit a big rock or root.
Get some earbuds for your phone...you have some seat time ahead of you!
If you have access to a box blade with rippers you will have an easier time. Use the rippers to loosen things up and drag the material toward a pile. Typically a full/over flowing box holds more than your bucket. Plus the rippers are loosening and raising material into the box as you go.
Set the box up with your adjustable links so it is parallel with the machine side to side. The top gets adjusted depending on how aggressive you can cut. The lower the front of the box (when attached to the machine) the more aggressive the cut. If you get the front too high it will just smooth things out (but not take much material) and get the front too low and you will bog the machine down or spin the tires. If you try and adjust with the 3 point height every time you will just frustrate yourself- given the amount of material to move. So take a bit of time to get the top link set up front and the rest will be much easier. You will just need to raise the top link if you hit a big rock or root.
Get some earbuds for your phone...you have some seat time ahead of you!
ustmd
Platinum Member
+3
Additionally, loaders for tractors are generally not as "robust" as loaders for other equipment. There are numerous posts here about owners damaging their loaders trying to use them to grade or dig up compacted material.
The box blade is designed for this type of work.
So the lift is just all the way down when working and the amount of cut is controlled by the top link correct? And when you say,
You will just need to raise the top link if you hit a big rock or root.
you mean to raise the lift of I hit a root (I don't have rocks here) not the top link right?
RNeumann
Elite Member
Good news- based on the pictures and the amount of material you want to move you will be an expert BEFORE you are done!!!
Luke'sScreenName
Elite Member
- Joined
- Mar 1, 2015
- Messages
- 3,704
- Location
- Lakes Region, NH
- Tractor
- Kubota MX4800 with BH-90X hoe; Hustler FastTrack 48; B3300SU (sold); 1969 Case 680B CK (sold)
I'm sure there are many threads on here on how to use/adjust boxblades.
Where it's steep, I'd work top to bottom.
Where it is possible, side-hilling will be much faster.
Where it's steep, I'd work top to bottom.
Where it is possible, side-hilling will be much faster.
Luke'sScreenName
Elite Member
- Joined
- Mar 1, 2015
- Messages
- 3,704
- Location
- Lakes Region, NH
- Tractor
- Kubota MX4800 with BH-90X hoe; Hustler FastTrack 48; B3300SU (sold); 1969 Case 680B CK (sold)
Pictures in post #8 LOOK like your tractor could straddle the hill with one set of tire on the flat top so the tractor will be less 'sloped' than the dirt even where you cant mow. As you move alone the blade will cut the 'peak' off.