Steel roof leaking

[s219]

Not all panels are formed that way. I have actually never seen a panel with that "foot" and I have seen a lot of steel roofing.

Aaron Z

It's common on panels meant to bear weight (PBR, etc). Usually only see that on panels that are safe to walk on anywhere.

 

[Oldpath05]

I think tape or sealant is only needed at the end of panel overlap, Not along the vertical seam. With the foot on the panel down on the boards/sheathing first,(on top of underlayment) the the next panel without the foot overlaps that one, on my garage it made a very tight seal, so much so it's hard to tell where the vertical seam is. So for water to leak through/on that seam, water has to blow through that invisible seam and Up over the hump, to me is like throwing a rock up in the air and it stays there.

 

[s219]

I think tape or sealant is only needed at the end of panel overlap, Not along the vertical seam. With the foot on the panel down on the boards/sheathing first,(on top of underlayment) the the next panel without the foot overlaps that one, on my garage it made a very tight seal, so much so it's hard to tell where the vertical seam is. So for water to leak through/on that seam, water has to blow through that invisible seam and Up over the hump, to me is like throwing a rock up in the air and it stays there.

I've always ordered panels to size, so there are no bottom laps on my installs, but all the panels I have used definitely call for tape at the side laps.

It's really important to read the manufacturer's instructions/specs for panels, which will get into wind loads and required screw/purlin spacing, requirements for cutting panels, etc. They also cover sealing requirements and get into the width and thickness of tape required. Some of this may even affect warranty.

Here's a good installation sheet from one of the big manufacturers:

http://www.unioncorrugating.com/literature/PBR.R.IR Panel_Installation.pdf

 

[newbury]

Screw down roofs are gonna leak sooner or later. you can pull the screws out and put in over size ones. You can do that and caulk em.
I have pitched roof that is not very steep on my barn that was put up in the eighties. Screwed in. We are gonna pull it off, sheath it with plywood and put down new metal that is snap down hidden screws. I have that on a couple newer buildings and wish to heck the barn was done that way to begin with.

I've a metal roof or three that need the screws replacing - do you have any links for "over size roofing screws"?

Exactly!
You definitely have a condensation problem though you are focusing on the apparent leaks.
The leaks have started due to corrosion via condensation.
The roof will be VERY slippery to work on... Hire a professional to either replace entirely or to spray a coating on. As well, spray 1.5 inches of closed cell foam on the interior side.
I run a company that does this, you need to look at the entire building envelope rather than just focusing on the apparent leaks.

Why do you write

The roof will be VERY slippery to work on.

?
Looking at the OP's first post

the roof doesn't look that steep. Some good rubber sneakers and knee pads should help with traction.

 

[Deere Dude]

I've always ordered panels to size, so there are no bottom laps on my installs, but all the panels I have used definitely call for tape at the side laps.

It's really important to read the manufacturer's instructions/specs for panels, which will get into wind loads and required screw/purlin spacing, requirements for cutting panels, etc. They also cover sealing requirements and get into the width and thickness of tape required. Some of this may even affect warranty.

Here's a good installation sheet from one of the big manufacturers:

http://www.unioncorrugating.com/literature/PBR.R.IR Panel_Installation.pdf

I see a difference now.
Mine is called tuff-rib and has a couple minor bends on the foot portion of the seam. See the blown up part of the picture on left.
Supposedly any water that begins to blow up under the overlap will reach the first bend and stop and drain out. Without that embossing I can see how water would blow in and make it up over the top.

 

[SandburRanch]

I see a difference now.View attachment 500058
Mine is called tuff-rib and has a couple minor bends on the foot portion of the seam. See the blown up part of the picture on left.
Supposedly any water that begins to blow up under the overlap will reach the first bend and stop and drain out. Without that embossing I can see how water would blow in and make it up over the top.

They are correct. Air doesn't like changing directions and any bends that causes a direction change of air flow forms a partial seal that's known as a Labyrinth Seal.

They did a good job.

 

[nosurprise]

This works

 

[nosurprise]

Bad link

 

[redmann1d2n]

I have a 35 year old shed and it leaks like crazy. It was when my dad was farming and now I bought the place. The seems were leaking and I swear the Guy (from Glencoe MN) that put up the shed could not see straight because some of the nails missed the purlins.
So from what I have experienced get eternabond tape. This is RV tape and if it can handle 60 mph it sure can stay on a roof. They don't have many colors though. Tape the seems with this stuff. It is awesome. Now the Nail holes. Underneath the roof where I see every nail I get the spray foam in a can sealant and spray every nail spot. This way it seals and when I get outside it expanded so much that I found the nails that needed attention better.... I hammered every nail back down and sealing it with this Ultima sealant from Menards.. If I have to put screws in I dip the screw into that sealant and screw it down. The Ultima sealant also brings life back to the seal on the nails. For a vapor barrier on the roof I was thinking of using some 6 mil plastic. It might be overkill but why not.
I also heard Elastameric sealant paint helps on the seams and holes too but I have yet to use it

 

[Oldpath05]

I have a 35 year old shed and it leaks like crazy. It was when my dad was farming and now I bought the place. The seems were leaking and I swear the Guy (from Glencoe MN) that put up the shed could not see straight because some of the nails missed the purlins.
So from what I have experienced get eternabond tape. This is RV tape and if it can handle 60 mph it sure can stay on a roof. They don't have many colors though. Tape the seems with this stuff. It is awesome. Now the Nail holes. Underneath the roof where I see every nail I get the spray foam in a can sealant and spray every nail spot. This way it seals and when I get outside it expanded so much that I found the nails that needed attention better.... I hammered every nail back down and sealing it with this Ultima sealant from Menards.. If I have to put screws in I dip the screw into that sealant and screw it down. The Ultima sealant also brings life back to the seal on the nails. For a vapor barrier on the roof I was thinking of using some 6 mil plastic. It might be overkill but why not.
I also heard Elastameric sealant paint helps on the seams and holes too but I have yet to use it

So this is what you're trying? that tape sure is pricey, what are we on aluminum sheet metal roof with purlins 2' on center? Sounds like a good plan to me.

EternaBond 200 Foot Seam Repair Kit
https://www.menards.com/main/buildi...ultima-clear-roof-sealant/p-1444431319025.htm