Anyone ever use a carport kit for a workshop

[woodlandfarms]

So dealing with a myriad of issues, and my neighbor came up and suggested that I go for a metal carport kit with either a wood or a concrete floor for a "temporary" or 10 year shop. 25X30 sort of size. It am debating a number of solutions to my problem of shop space and i do not want to do the shipping container solution and I do not have the funds to really go all in on a metal building.

 

[coherent]

I bought a smaller 12x20 metal carport and welded angle iron to the existing supports across the front and back and fabricated a door frame and then sheet covered the sides, front, back and door with corrugated galvanized metal. It's been a perfect tractor barn for my cut with lots of storage area. I used a couple lengths of the the clear corrugated poly sheets on each side which let in plenty of light. My final cost for a completely enclosed "building" was a fraction of what anything that size would have cost, metal or wood. Everything stays dry and fairly secure with a padlocked door. Mine was installed/built over a leveled gravel base, but a cement slab would be even better. I've had shops and sheds with wood floors and can't say they are the best choice. I actually bought two from the local big box home store. One I enclosed as above for the tractor and storage and the other I use as a simple carport to store a UTV and my tractor implements. I would think they will last much longer than 10yrs. No hurricanes or tornado's to worry about here in Arizona!

 

[woodlandfarms]

Up here we can get fully enclosed kits and the cost of the kit seems to cover the install. I hate the thought of spending money on a temporary structure but no matter how I cut it a legitimate metal building with electric, plumbing and concrete is 100K.... Not a number I can swallow at the moment.

 

[CincyFlyer]

In my area, a "carport" has no sides, so you'd be cobbling up stuff, and the wind load on the sides may be more than the uprights can stand, so you're then into some engineering. I see that some of the metal building manufacturers are offering terms, which may make it more palatable to go in that direction.

 

[woodlandfarms]

So maybe I should have said Metal Shed. This is one of a myriad of companies in the area. I look at them as being carports because I look at a metal shed as being something with serious beams and structure.

Pacific NW Sheds-Sheds-Carports

 

[Egon]

From what I seen of the shed if placed on a concrete slab it's permanent. To me it would be a garage package.

Do some estimating on what it costs for different buildings on a concrete slab. At first electrity would be the only service required and that can be terminated at the panel.

 

[Moluke]

We have two of the enclosed-carport buildings on our property, and one open carport. One of the buildings is 25 x 30, and the other is about 25 x 40. The 25 x 30 building is over 10 years old at this point, and the 25 x 40 is about 5 years old. Both of these buildings were delivered by a 1-ton truck with 20' trailer, which appeared to have enough material for about 5 buildings on it. It took the crew about 8 hours to erect the 25 x 40 building and 25 x 30 carport.

What you set them on makes a big difference in how long they last and what you can do with them. Our 10+ year old building is sitting on a rail road tie box, slightly above grade, and the enclosed space is filled in with compacted road base. I am not sure exactly how it is anchored to the tie base, but I imagine it is just pounded in rebar, bent over. This building shows no signs of rot, and the floor is bone dry. Our 25 x 40 building (5? years old) is simply set on compacted gravel without rail road ties. I am already noticing signs of deterioration on the bottom galvanized cross members, as the building is not sufficiently above grade, and the floor inside stays wet during the winter/spring. This building is anchored to the ground using several (6 or 8?) large ground anchors. Both buildings have stood up to significant storms without issue.

I would highly recommend setting the building on either a concrete pad or a tie base. The rail road ties seem to stabilize the building a great deal, keep the bottom cross members in better shape, and keep the floor inside drier. Also, having a solid surface for the roll up doors to seal against helps greatly.

Would I like to have a concrete floor in my buildings? of course. But, it would add a good deal of money to the building cost and make them more permanent. If I was aiming for a 10 year max lifespan, I would set it on compacted gravel and forget it. Without a concrete floor, they are good for storing equipment (my usage) but not much more. It is also important to note that these buildings 'sweat' quite a bit whenever you have high humidity and large temperature changes overnight, making them a poor place to store moisture sensitive equipment and tools.

In conclusion: Buy one and set it on gravel for storing equipment, and if you want to do some work in it, set it on concrete, but be aware that these will never be as dry as a 'real' building.

 

[woodlandfarms]

Moluke Fantastic answer. Thanks for your time. I have inherited two "expert level" woodworking shops and I really do not want to part with the gear, both for personal as well as financial reasons. But I need a dry space. We are on the wet side of the PNW, my plan was to put in concrete. Wonder if I could insulate and it would help? Concrete will be on the list for sure.

Again, thanks for your insight.

 

[robertsa]

Do you weld? A concrete slab with steel plate anchored into the corners with j-hooks would allow for welding oil field pipe uprights with pipe horizontals or red iron. Top it with tin and do the sides as well if you want. It makes for a sturdy building at a reasonable price, assuming you can do the work.

 

[AGRIMAN]

Moluke Fantastic answer. Thanks for your time. I have inherited two "expert level" woodworking shops and I really do not want to part with the gear, both for personal as well as financial reasons. But I need a dry space. We are on the wet side of the PNW, my plan was to put in concrete. Wonder if I could insulate and it would help? Concrete will be on the list for sure.

Again, thanks for your insight.

Those light weight metal building are popular around here. A lot of them are on concrete and used for shops, but I have seen them turn into man caves, offices, cook sheds and camp houses. We spray foam a lot of them, here lately it seems like 3 or 4 a month.

Insulation of any type will help, but they are perfect for foam and it makes a big difference in both heating and cooling. It's almost a given, if we spray foam one that's being used as shop or man cave a few days later we will get a call from the guys buddy because he has seen the difference and now wants his sprayed.