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  1. #1
    Silver Member Kevin_in_VA's Avatar
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    Apr 2003
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    Chesterfield, Va
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    NH TC30 Hydro

    Default Anyone used SANI-TRED products for waterproofing?

    Looking to waterproof my basement in addition to digging french drains. Does anyone have any experience with SANI-TRED products? It looks like a winner. I think I have used someting similar in a construction project I managed at a brewery several years back, but I'm not sure. Anyone have any other suggested solutions?

    Kevin

  2. #2

    Join Date
    Aug 2004
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    51
    Location
    Oregon City, Oregon US
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    CK20HST

    Default Re: Anyone used SANI-TRED products for waterproofing?

    I did something similar last year to my basement. I didn't use this product I used something I cannot come up with the name for. I have the container at home and loved it. I couldn't find the product anywhere but a mason supplier. I will post the name of the product I used, it applies like a thin paste on the inside of the basement. The color is almost the same color as the concrete itself when dried. You also use the product to fill in cracks etc the longer it is on there the more it blocks. It uses a crystalizing formula but for the life of me I cannot think of the name. Also are you going to be applying this to the inside of the house or the outside where the french drain is located? This will make a big difference on the product you use.

  3. #3
    Silver Member Kevin_in_VA's Avatar
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    Apr 2003
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    Chesterfield, Va
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    NH TC30 Hydro

    Default Re: Anyone used SANI-TRED products for waterproofing?

    Thanks! This will all be interior work as this portion of the basement is below grade. The other end of the basement is a walkout.

  4. #4

    Join Date
    Aug 2004
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    Oregon City, Oregon US
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    CK20HST

    Default Re: Anyone used SANI-TRED products for waterproofing?

    Sorry on the delayed response. I have been busy at work and haven't had time to look when I got home due to other issues around the house. The product I used was Xypex. You can find out more information on the product at http://www.xypex.com/ I live just outside of Portland Oregon so we get a fair amount of rain. I actually did this last year about this time of year even. It was easy to apply you clean the wall from most dirt particles (used a wire 10 inch brush on a broom handle). Cleaned the different cracks in the wall broke any loose concrete out brushed extra material out of the cracks. Sprayed walls with a thin spray of water to make the look damp but not soaked (Requires water to activate). Spread the material with a broom type brush 12 inch brush. I addressed the cracks first waited I think about 10-15 minutes and you take the paste material (created by adding a water % to the dry Xypex powder) and push it into the cracks smoothing them out on the wall so the cracks virtually vanish from view. After that was complete I continued spreading upon the wall on the damp surfaces (paste form also easy to mix and spread). I used my lawn and garden sprayer to apply the water. Let dry for 24 hours spraying I think it was 2 or 3 times in that 24 hour period. Once that time is done it said I could paint it or apply another coat if desired (I only did one coat myself per talking with the mason shop before I did the work they said they never had any problems once it setup.) Framed the walls in with 2x4 studs put up sheet rock and haven't seen a drip of water on my carpet that I placed in the rooms. I don't smell anymore moister in the basement. I left the rooms open for 1 month into the rainy season to make sure I didn't see any leaks before applying the sheet rock. The chemical supposedly reacts to water and gets into the concrete more and more as time goes on due to the chemical reaction. It gets warm to the touch once you add water to it also so you can tell there is a reaction happening. You can also apply paint directly to the surface once it is fully setup I think it was 24 hours but it might have been longer. I just remember we didn't want to frame until it setup for 24 hours and I remember spraying it down with water 2 or 3 times after it was on to let it react with the concrete. The instructions now say they recommend a dry pack seal they sell in addition to what they did then I didn't and I don't have a problem with it. I also have a natural spring next to one of the corners in the same basement that was constantly damp even during the summer. That was the only hard part to apply because it was so damp but it didn't take much honestly just a little more time of setting and applying 3 or 4 coats over a hour or two and it stopped it completely (Applying to a seeping surface). If you have more direct questions please feel free to send me a private message and I can even talk about it on the phone with you if you like. I really enjoy the product I used. I have one room I havent finished in the basement yet I can even possibly take some pictures for you if you like but honestly it now just looks like a concrete wall.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Anyone used SANI-TRED products for waterproofing?

    BUYER BEWARE: SANI-TRED charges a 30% restocking fee for return products which have not been opened. Are they IDIOTS. Oh wait that's for the warehouse guy to take the "un-opened" product out of the box give it a once over and put it back on the shelf? Right off the bat 30% of the purchase price is gone and you have to return the product yourself so you could be in over your head. So your running cost to return is about 35-40% almost 1/2 of what you paid for if you return?. SANI-TRED is over rated and over priced. For $100.00 a gallon of there 撤RV I could buy a 5 gallon drum of Drylock and go further for less. It痴 a rip off covered in their own stick goop.

  6. #6
    Elite Member
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    Trivoli, IL
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    SSTT (Sideways Snake Tain Tractor) and STB (sideways train box) tractor, dirt harvester

    Default Re: Anyone used SANI-TRED products for waterproofing?

    paint on and spray on water proofings. even xyprex additive. when repairing leaks and cracks. 90% is all about prep work. if you goof up on prep, then you can except to have bubbling of paint and spray on water proofers. and/or cracking of all types which cause more leaks.

    each product can be different than in another in what type of prep work you need to do, and what you should not do. even though you might think it would help could cause problems for a given water proofer product out there.

    i honestly never have kept track of all the different types of "water proofing" stuff out there. just way to many, and majority of what i have seen over the years has been due to improper prep work, either not enough or to much prep work.

    ============
    with above said. folks go crazy over different products and cost when installing ponds. (Koiphen.com) sani-tred, to lots of other products have been tried. and opinions of products can be good to bad. pending on who you ask. (again prep work) and what they are wanting to do with it.

    for example ((pre-existing basement that is leaking)). if you have basement walls. and in middle of the wall water is coming in. a french drain might do some good. but you may want to look more at dealing with surface water on outside of the house. ((redo gutters and were they drain to. and install pipe work for gutters, and perhaps re-landscaping and grading the yards outside the house))

    if you are getting water around bottom of the walls of the basement. french drain more likely work much better. there are so called ""de watering"" setups that look kinda like trim that you glue / silicon on around bottom corner edge of all the outside basement walls. and it kinda works like french drain. then there is a complete french drain setup, were they come in with concrete saw, and cut a path around entire basement a couple feet from wall ((so they do not hit footers for walls)) dig out dirt, and concrete chunks, put in gravel and holed/sloted drainage pipe. and run to sump pump or lower part of yard.


    for example ((building a basement / house right now)) folks will tend to use tar, or epdm liners for like ponds, to epdm like liners for flat roofs and wrap entire basement in. to other products and install a french drain down near the foots of the basement walls. some folks if cash allows were coat outside of basement walls with a stuco or thin layer of concrete with xyprex mix. to also obtain a water proof outside doing on walls. while others might use a spray on or paint on water proofer.

    for example((already existing basement and house and having leaks)) when folks put on paint on and/or spray on water proofer to the """inside of the walls""" of a basement. folks can easily get bubbling of the paint. due to force of water simply pushing the paint right on out and away from the wall. and in order to keep your water proofing stuff held on and not bubble or crack. it also depends as much on your water proofing product, but also if you have concrete block, or poured concrete walls, or other type of basement walls. some of it may require you take a metal grinding wheel, other products may state mutric acid wash, others might state everything fully dry. double check regardless of what ever product you end up going with. with the manufacture for the best "adhesion" so there less likely a failure of a given product from happening.
    Ryan

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