Setting cedar split rail fence posts...

   / Setting cedar split rail fence posts... #1  

bandit67

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I'm going to set 6 1/2' cedar hand split fence posts 2' into the ground. Just wondering what the general concensus is - repack the holes with dirt (clay) around the posts or pack the posts in concrete? The two trains of thought are that the posts set in dirt will eventually loosen, but the posts set in concrete will eventually rot because the concrete creates a water pocket that the post rots away in.

So what can I expect to happen sooner - loose posts (the ones set in dirt) or posts breaking due to rot (the ones set in concrete)?
 
   / Setting cedar split rail fence posts... #2  
I would consider stone dust which will pack and hold like concrete but allow for drainage. Is 2’ deep enough in your climate to prevent frost heave or for a fence is that not an issue?

MarkV
 
   / Setting cedar split rail fence posts... #3  
If something happens to a rail or a post in the fence, it will be easier to 'repair' with a post packed in (gravel or dust better than clay, I think) dirt than one set in concrete. The cedar rails are often a lot of sapwood, and don't last all that long (as compared to cedar heartwood).
 
   / Setting cedar split rail fence posts...
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Not too worried about frost heave for the fence posts. Plus, we haven't gotten a frost deeper than 12" over the last 13 years. Still build foundations to frost line, but the fence should be fine.

I like the idea of the stone dust. Hafta see if I can track down some of that stuff. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
 
   / Setting cedar split rail fence posts... #5  
A combination of concrete sand and pea gravel will work good too. The principle is the same as with a gravel driveway. You need the fines (sand) to pack in between the pebbles to lock them in place.

I suggest digging your holes about four inches deeper than the post is going into the ground. I think it's important to clean our loose dirt too. The reason for that is during the wet season the loose dirt will compact and allow the post to settle.

By digging a little deeper you get to put your fill under the post too. This is good for drainage and support for the post.

Hope this helps.
 
   / Setting cedar split rail fence posts... #6  
Here's a new idea for you. I spoke with our Park department superintendent about how they install fences. They do a lot of split rail types because we are The City of Parks . /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

They use all of the methods that have been previously described, but probably 90% of the installations are made with just dirt. They've not had a problem with heaving or rotting. They are using the commercial grade cedar posts, which are a little larger and more expensive. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

They do occassionally use limestone similar to how Harv described, and once in a great while concrete. But those definitely are not their primary methods.

Now for the new one. They had an instance where they found that they needed to, on an occassional and recurring basis, remove part of a fence. Rather than dig the hole again each time, they slipped in a PVC sleeve (basically just a hunk of plumbing PVC pipe) that was as close to the outside diameter of the post as possible. They put the post through a cap and then put the post into the pipe. The cap slips down the post to cover the hole, which also gives it a kind of nice finished look. You'd think that the post would wobble around, but they've not had any problems as this is not used in any kind of structural support situation. They are actually evaluating using this method on some other decorative fences that they have. They believe that the post will last longer than with any other method they have, it saves some labor time, and it's easy to remove and replace if and when needed. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
   / Setting cedar split rail fence posts...
  • Thread Starter
#7  
Well, they call the stone dust, breeze out here. Folks usually use breeze to set flagstone walkways in. Although I don't like it for that use (it makes a mess and requires regular sweeping), I like the idea of using it to fill the gap in the hole after I place the posts, so I think I'll go that route.

Thanks for all the suggestions.
 
   / Setting cedar split rail fence posts... #8  
That sounds like a clever idea, and will store it away (hopefully never to be forgotten, and used someday). Sounds like it would work best for round posts and I'm thinking the split rail fence posts may not be round. But, could just pack some sand or dirt in the pipe and tamp it too. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
   / Setting cedar split rail fence posts... #9  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Sounds like it would work best for round posts and I'm thinking the split rail fence posts may not be round. But, could just pack some sand or dirt in the pipe and tamp it too. )</font>

That's what I thought too, and I'm sure you're right about the round posts. However, I did specifically ask him if the posts were round or the regular split rail type, and he said the application that he was talking about was the split rail type. He went on to say that you just need to get the PVC pipe that is as close to the widest measurement of the post as you can, and the pipe will fit snugly. He even mentioned that you might need to trim a little off the post.

He definitely said that they do not put any material around the post inside the pipe. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

I'm going to be doing some park inspections later in the month, and if I remember, I'll take my camera along a try to snap a few pictures for you. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
   / Setting cedar split rail fence posts... #10  
Hey Golfgar4,

Thats an intersting method you described with the pipe, but my visual isn't comig up with a pleasant looking fence.

I'm sure its just me, and I'm not being critical, just looking looking for new ideas.

Could you possibly post a photo?

Thanks,
Eddie
 
 
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