Fuel Tailer

[EddieWalker]

I've been buying red farm diesel for my tractors from a supplier about 8 miles away from my place. I thought of getting a storage tank and having it delivered, but keep coming up with reasons not to do it that way.

They want a minimum delivery of 300 gallons to offset the delivery charge. Not a real concern, but after I get all my work done and sell off most of my equipment, I wont be using enough fuel to justify such a large storage container. I also don't like storing fuel for long periods of time.

My solution is to have a trailer that I can dedicate to hauling and storing diesel on. Of couse, it has to be affordable and functional.

After looking in the classifieds every Thursday morning for several months I came across this one.

It's 12 feet long, singel 3,500 lb axle with fifteen inch steel rims. No lights or registration. The wood is half rotten. The tongue needs a hammer to get it on and off and wont lock into place. There are no safety chains and it's been in a wreck, not to mention its covered with rust.

Asking price was $150, but he took $100 cash.

 

[EddieWalker]

There used to be a tail gate ramp on the back at one time, and the rear right corner is kind of twisted from the accident.

The wood is functional, but not pretty.

The tires have tread and hold air. I'll probably change them in a matter of time.

Otherwise, it's a good foundation for what I want to do.

 

[rdln]

Could you use the storage tank down the road for clear diesel when the convoys of Prevosts show up on empty?$$$$ might be a money maker!

 

[EddieWalker]

I'm going to use aluminum saddle fuel tanks off large trucks for storing the diesel in. I prefer aluminum over steel for the rust factor and the tanks are designed for storing fuel with baffles and a nice cap for filling them.

I bought a PT 4X6 and cut a bracket to mount the tanks to the trailer.

I used carriage bolts to anchor the brackets to the trailer, going throught the metal cross bracing.

The threads are in the up position so I can attach the stapping that will fasten the tanks.

 

[EddieWalker]

The tongue was pretty much rusted out and needed a hammer to get on and off. It was also too low for my truck. I either needed a special drop hitch for this trailer, which I don't need for my other trailer, or I needed to raise the height of the tongue.

 

[btolle]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( The tires have tread and hold air. I'll probably change them in a matter of time.
)</font>

See if you can find some used tires cheap. Trailer tires will rot long before they wear out so new tires are not necessary.

For safety's sake replace the tires if they are more than 7 years old or if they have visible cracking on the sidewalls.

The date of manufacture is part of the tire identification number or serial number. The last four digits of this number (which is up to 12 digits long and usually near the inner edge of the sidewall on one side of the tire) indicate the week and year of it was made. For example, the numbers 1801 indicate the 18th week of the year 2001.

You can also use the above information to determine the age of any used tires you buy.

Bill Tolle

 

[EddieWalker]

I took two pieces of angle iron and welded them onto the trailer to create a secure surface to attach the new tongue.

It's not as nice as the bull hitch that it's replacing, but it works, and that's all I'm after.

I welded three links of chain onto the frame. My other trailer has two links welded to the frame, so I figure one more link wouldn't hurt anything.

I also re-welded the jack mounting bracket. Since I'm welding other things I just kept on doing everything I could think of.

 

[EddieWalker]

Bill,

After reading your reply, I went out and looked real close at the tires. First thing I realized is they are 14 inch rims, not 15. No biggy, just a mistake on my part.

One tire has quite a bit of cracking on the sidewall and in need of replacing, but it could also become the spare. The spare is almost new looking, so would be a candidate for a swap.

Two tires are Bridgstones and the only numbers I could find read T7301 and T6911 which don't make any sence to me from what you said. The other tire reads 7203 F.O. 5882-2 and also doesn't make any sence to me.

What am I doing wrong?

Thanks,
Eddie

 

[EddieWalker]

I bought a light kit from walmart and welded on some angle iron to create a mounting bracket. I also enclosed the wires in some tubing to protect them from the elements. Sun seems to be enemy number one on exposed wires.

 

[EddieWalker]

I saw an aluminum fuel tank for sale in the classifieds for $100 and thought it was a pretty good deal. I told a friend I was gonna take a look at it, when he told me he had two that I could have for free. WOW, problem solved!!!!!!

The small tank is 100 gallons and I have no idea what the big tank is.

My plan is to link them together with fuel hose and fill one and pump from the other. The hoses should transfer the fuel from one to the other. Or at least thats what I'm hoping.

 

[EddieWalker]

I've never welded aluminum and don't really understand how it's done. I'm told you can do it with a gas setup, but for the rare occasions I need to weld aluminum, I find it easier to just have an expert do it.

I bought a 12 volt pump from TSC with a 2 inch threaded male pip fitting to go into a tank. So I bought a 2 inch aluminum pipe coupling and had it welded onto the tank.

 

[btolle]

Eddie,

I am not sure you have found the right numbers. There should be a serial number on the tire. It could be on the opposite side of the tire from where you found those numbers and would be longer than the numbers you stated, probably about 10 to 12 digits and is usually all numbers. It is also burnt in (branded with a hot iron) to the tire as opposed to being raised letters like the letters used to indicate sizes, inflation pressures, etc.

The serial number is often near the rim. Look at the other side of the tires. The serial numer is only on one side.

Bill Tolle

 

[TOMLESCOEQUIP]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">(

I bought a PT 4X6 and cut a bracket to mount the tanks to the trailer.




)</font> FYI ........Some of the new pressure treated wood will react with aluminum and act as a catalyst to corrode the tanks............Someone who knows more about this happening needs to chime in here...........I've been advised by my timber guys to watch metal contact with some types of treated lumber as the new versions of treatment they're using now can cause potential problems.............Tom

 

[EddieWalker]

Bill,

Thanks, I'll look on the other side of those tires.

Tom,

Thanks, It seems I remember hearing about that, now that you mention it. I think a rubber lining might be a good idea. An old inner tube should do the trick.

 

[rambler]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( The small tank is 100 gallons and I have no idea what the big tank is.

My plan is to link them together with fuel hose and fill one and pump from the other. The hoses should transfer the fuel from one to the other. Or at least thats what I'm hoping.


)</font>

Sounds like a nice project. The new pressure treatments have only been around for a year to 18 months, so you should be ok with the old trailer wood.

However, you could have an issue with DOT. They do _not_ like fuel containers larger than 99 gallons as a trailer. It will depend on how your local state enforces these restrictions. You could be considered a fuel transporter any time you are over 99 gallons and be subject to CDL, insurance, inspection, placarding, etc.

Not saying what is right or wrong, or what your state will do specificly, but it is _possible_ you could have problems in some regions.

I'm not sure I'd like to transport 200+ gallons on a single axle anyhow - that is 1600 lbs of sloshing load - on a single axle which is real bouncy.......

--->Paul

 

[ns_in_tex]

Eddie, I think Rambler is right about the DOT law. I thought I remembered it being told to me as 110 gal.

 

[EddieWalker]

Thanks for the advice on the limit on fuel you can haul on a trailer. I looked into this and asked the supplier, the police and several contractors who haul fuel to job sites.

Nobody was able to tell me the limit, though I'm sure there is a limit on how much I can haul. I've seen quite a few 300 gallon trailers on the road and feel confortable with less than that.

I'm not saying I'm legal, just willing to take that chance and deal with it when I get in trouble.

One of the reasons I like the aluminum tanks that I'm using is they are DOT aproved and have baffles in them.

The axle is rated at 3,500lbs. I use 6lbs a gallon for my math and figure I'm in the 1,200lbs range. Add some for the trailer itself and maybe some more fuel, and I'm still around 2,000 pounds.

This should be well within safe limits for hauling fuel 8 miles each direction. Am I missing something?

Thanks again for your advice and suggestions.

Eddie

 

[RonR]

I just put together a PT deck. The supply house insisted I use galvanized bolts to bolt it together as the pressure treating will eat plain steel over time.

Suggest you use galvanized hardware and use some rubber gaskets or such between the aluminum tanks and the PT wood.

My two cents.

Ron

 

[Lazy]

Hi

I believe diesel is more like 7 pounds per gal.

Charlie

 

[damndozerman]

How much diesel are you burning?Sounds like your going the hardway to me.If its less than 100 gallons a day just put a tank in back of the pickup haul it yourself.8 miles????