repairing shed prior to moving

[aardvark]

I have a Robin brand shed on my property which came with the house. It's the Ruffy model found on Robin's website below, and it was installed in 1984 according to the permit on file in the with the records dept.
http://www.robinbuilders.com/products/ruffy.html

Anyway, over the years, the previous owner nailed stuff to the outside of the shed, which created leaks, and the wood began to rot. Right now I'm fixing these problems so I can move the shed. I calculate the shed will be about $1100 to fix, vs $3200 to buy a new one of the same size.

The posts at all the corners are rotted away. Also along the base most of the footer is rotted, and needs to be replaced. In order to keep the building from falling apart, I took all the left over plywood on the property and screwed it to the uprights insode the shed. This gave it some structural rigidity after the metal siding was removed. Next was to remove all the hurricane straps and nails holding the uprights to the floor's base.

 

[aardvark]

Once the straps and nails were removed I was able to lift the shed off the base to do the repairs with the BX23.

 

[aardvark]

Closer pic of tractor bucket lifting shed side.

 

[aardvark]

Placed new 2x4x10 into position for structure dring the lifting of the shed off the base. This is temporary since many of the uprights are rotted and need to be replaced or repaired. I just need some structure at the bottom so I can lift the shed about four feet off the base, giving me access to tear up the tongue in groove floor and replace the rotted wood. I'm actually just thinking of replacing all the floor with 3/4" pressure treated plywood.

 

[aardvark]

I now have the footers replaced on three sides, but the shed is no longer nailed to the base, since all the hurricane straps and nails have been removed from the uprights. I've strapped it down with two of the 10k lb straps just so the wind doesn't blow it away. Tomorrrow I finish the footer on the fourth side, and lift the whole shed upper assembly onto concrete blocks so I can access the floor and base. I'm going to run four 4x4x16's under the shed walls so the shed can rest on top of the concrete block stacks. This should give me three feet of clearnace on each side, which should allow me to tear up the floor.

Once the floor is replaced I will set the shed back down on the base and nail the footers to the floor. Then repair the rotted uprights, and install the new hurricane straps. Once these are done, the shed will mostly hold itself together, and I can remove the metal siding on the roof and begin replacing the rotted trusses. Once all this is done, then I can move the shed to it's new location before I re-install new siding.

 

[aardvark]

Tomorrow I'll have some more pictures hopefully with the shed on blocks, and the floor removed.

I was granted the permit to move the shed last week, so I've begun working on it with vigor. I figured if I didn't get the permit, I'd just buy a new one and have it installed. It's about $2100 more doing that though, so I'm happy the permit went through.

Here's another picture of the rotting.

 

[aardvark]

More rot

 

[aardvark]

Inside with plywood support structure and material storage.

 

[CT_Jeff]

Excellent post aardvark. Great pics also. It is always nice to see someone take on repair rather than just buy new. Plus the cost savings doesn't hurt either.

Can't wait to see how the project progresses.

CT_Jeff

 

[vetteman]

Just looked at your post. Well I was thinking now would be a good time to make it a little taller if you needed the height. Seems like a nice little project,lookes very good.