Barn siding help

[Tractor_Jim_CT]

Hi everyone

I have a barn constructed of cedar. I recently finished power washing the inside and it came out great. But my problen is with the outside. The barn was built in the mid-80s and the outside wood has turned black and a rust brown. The other issue I have is the board-and-batten siding look. I want to keep the board but I want to remove the battened part which sticks out and put a layer of tongue-groove 8 inch or 10 inch board over the current cedar board after removing the 1 inch battened board. Then paint or stain barn red the new board

Should I put a covering over the cedar layer before putting the new siding on? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

Should I put the new cedar tongue and groove siding over cedar or would you use pine instead? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

The board is verticle

Thanks in advance

 

[Cowboyjg]

Jim, you can certainly put the wood on wood if you like. Which ever wood you prefer is fine also. The thing to watch for IMO would be the seams where the batten had been. The batten acted as a barrier to the weather. Be sure the T&G misses, even if it's a little, the old batten seams. It's not a real big deal because of the nature of T&G and how it goes together. However you will get some expansion and contraction and some of the seams will loosen over time. I'm sure you see where I'm going. Outside of that, have at it and have fun.

 

[EddieWalker]

If I understand this, you have a board and batton ceder exterior barn. You do not like the look of the battons and the way the cedar has weathered over the years. You want to pain the whole thing red when your'd done.

Since your painting it anyway, why go with spending all the time and MONEY on tounge and groove boards? Cutting and fitting alone will take forever, not to mention what that stuff sells for. They your going to cover it up with paint!!

Remove the battons and cover the walls in a material that appeals to you that is designed to be used as siding. There are all sorts of 4x8 sheets to choose from plus vinyl and metal.

Personally, I'm liking the James Hardi panals. I put my scraps in my burn pile and they didn't even change color. It hold paint very well, its bug proof and it will never rot.

Good luck,
Eddie

 

[Hagar]

You will need a barrier between the original siding and the new boards to help prevent rot. Something like Tyvek house wrap, rosin paper or felt paper would do.

 

[inveresk]

I bought a cedar clad house in July. It hadn't been treated and the condition of the siding was awful, black, stained and to be honest I thought the siding was done. Before I overclad it, I thought I'd at least see if cleaning it up would work so tackled it with a powerwash. It still looked bad so I sprayed it with a dilute solution of TSP and scrubbed it with a stiff, short haired broom then powerwashed it again. While it's not perfect, the results are way better than I expected and good enough for me to live with until I relocate the house next year and carry out a comprehesive remodel. The attached photograph shows the difference. I'd cleaned as far as I could reach without scaffolding in this shot and the original siding condition can be seen above the window. The whole house was like that. I've since cleaned about six feet higher using the FEL as a working platform but will need scaffolding to get into the high parts of the gables.

Might be worth carrying out a sample on your building this way. If it works, it'll save you a deal of money in overcladding. If not, then at least you'll be absolutely sure painting or overcladding is the only real answer.

 

[inveresk]

Oops. Here's the photograph . . .

 

[beenthere]

Sounds expensive, to say the least, to add siding over the top.

Have you tried cleaning the old siding as "inveresk" suggested? TSP or just a spray of bleach/water solution will do wonders to get rid of the mold that causes the dark black and gray look that you see.

Some people like this black to gray look and also don't like putting on any kind of finish. When wood is left to the elements with no treatment, it will turn dark because of the mold.

 

[escavader]

ID wrap it in typar first,no water will get through it,and yet it can still breath.This is what us rednecks use for siding up here in MAINE /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
ALAN

 

[Tractor_Jim_CT]

Thanks as always to the TBN group for your thoughts and ideas and appreciate the help.

Basically I don't like the board-and-batten look. I might try cleaning a section on the outside and test red barn color stain on the section after it dries.

I've learned I can put a outer layer of T&G boards, but should wrap the outer layer 1st. Probably would clean before wrapping. I should line up the T&G so it doesn't go over the battened board that was removed.

I am remodeling the garage/barn to look more like a barn. It has two front garage type doors. My plan is to remove one of the doors by closing in the wall. The other door will be changed to a sliding right to left barn door, to be purchased from Circle B. More windows will be added and the wood question of this post is to give the outer barn a more vertical, smooth barn look. Exterior stairs will be removed from the back of the barn and stairs will be added to the inside of the barn to get to the 2nd level. I'd also like to add a walkout deck on the rear 2nd floor, which overlooks a river.

The wood question is to dress up the barns look. Even though it's expensive, it will add to the appearance and probably insulate the barn a little better with the 2nd layer. The barn has a wood stove and will probably have to replace it.

Does anyone know where to buy exterior barn cedar board T&G that will sell to a barn/homeowner and ship?

Thanks again

 

[beenthere]

What size 'board' are you looking for, what cedar do you want, and how many square feet are you talking about?

Do you plan to nail the new boards all the way into the nailers that are under the boards now on the barn? or just nail it to the boards?